In the fall of 1986, I launched my first experiment with organic. I prepared two twenty-acre fields for winter wheat planting, side by side. The first field would be chemical free. I had been growing alfalfa hay there for the past few years, so I hadn’t been spraying it with herbicide. And since alfalfa is a legume, I had plowed it into the soil in place of synthetic fertilizer. I took a soil test to measure how much nitrogen I got from the alfalfa and found that it was pretty high: ninety-five pounds per acre.