Abstract
During the eighteenth century, accelerating economic progress slowly created large numbers of mechants, scholars, clerks, laywers, professionals, and other social categories that came to be known as the “middle classes.” Feudal society demanded subalterns accept their lack of status with humility, but could accomodate individuals of extraordinary merit by accepting them into the nobility. The middle classes, above the peasantry and below the aristocracy, were too numerous to assimilate, yet could not be treated as serfs. The threat they posed to social hierarchy also strained the sumptuary system. What was to be done? Enlightenment thinkers proposed a variety of reforms. Most assumed a hierarchical society, proposing new ranks for the new social categories. They also became increasingly comfortable with innovation. Ancient custom did not always provide the best solution for contemporary social problems; virtue and reason replaced tradition as the hallmark of good government.
I suggest a uniform, a national costume, or whatever you want to call it… I know of nothing that would be more advantageous as the introduction of a costume in which dressed, fit and pleased everybody, but which was still inexpensive.
— ”A.Z.” (1790).1
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Notes
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© 2014 Alexander Maxwell
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Maxwell, A. (2014). The Discovery of the Uniform. In: Patriots Against Fashion. Palgrave Macmillan, London. https://doi.org/10.1057/9781137277145_5
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1057/9781137277145_5
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