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Abstract

Sound and water waves are familiar longitudinal and transverse disturbances relative to the direction of propagation in a fluid, respectively. Sound waves arise in a compressible fluid, but water (gravity) waves are well described in the subsonic incompressible approximation. Our main emphasis in this chapter is on linear wave theory, where the disturbances from an equilibrium or steady state are assumed small and solutions may be obtained by superposition as Fourier series or integral forms. Our analysis is extended to superposed fluids, where hydrodynamic instability may occur—and the other topics chosen either consolidate earlier concepts or are relevant to developments in the following two chapters. The additional bibliographic entries at the end of this chapter provide relevant supplementary reading.

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Notes

  1. 1.

    Fluid particles near the water surface actually move forward as a wave peak passes, and then backward as a wave trough passes, so there are local circulations that flatten with depth into horizontal oscillatory motions within a surface layer. However, for small-amplitude waves it is reasonable to assume that the flow remains irrotational outside this narrow layer.

  2. 2.

    The relevant traditional analysis assumed a steadily moving line load corresponding to the forcing function \(f(x,t)={\mathrm {const}}.\, \delta (x-Vt)\), which essentially renders the response in the direction the load moves.

  3. 3.

    The two-dimensional wave patterns were originally predicted by J.W. Davys, R.J. Hosking and A.D. Sneyd (Journal of Fluid Mechanics 158, 269–287, 1985). The corresponding time-dependent asymptotic analysis for an impulsively started concentrated point source demonstrated that a steady state is approached for all load speeds other than \(V=c_\mathrm{min}=c_\mathrm{g}\), including the load speed \(V=\sqrt{gH}\) in the long wavelength limit \(k\rightarrow 0\)—cf. W.S. Nugroho, K. Wang, R.J. Hosking & F. Milinazzo (Journal of Fluid Mechanics 381, 337–355, 1999).

  4. 4.

    K. Wang, R.J. Hosking and F. Milinazzo (Journal of Fluid Mechanics 521, 295–317, 2004).

  5. 5.

    E. Parau and F. Dias (Journal of Fluid Mechanics 460 281–305, 2002); F. Bonnefoy, M.H. Meylan and P. Ferrant (Journal of Fluid Mechanics 621 215–242, 2009); J.-M. Vanden-Broeck and E.I. Parau (Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A 369, 2957–2972, 2011); and E.I. Parau and J.-M. Vanden-Broeck (Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A 369, 2973–2988, 2011).

  6. 6.

    V.A. Squire (International Journal of Offshore and Polar Engineering, 18, 241–253, 2008).

  7. 7.

    Atmospheric internal gravity waves, where the buoyancy of the air due to a vertical potential temperature gradient rather than gravity alone is the restoring force, are of course quite different—and the alternative term buoyancy waves is actually more appropriate. Buoyancy waves have the remarkable property that their group velocity is perpendicular to the direction of phase propagation, so they can propagate energy high into the atmosphere. The rotation of the Earth provides another restoring force, leading to further important atmospheric wave types (e.g. “inertio-gravity” and Rossby waves) not discussed here, and the interested reader is referred to the book by Holton cited in the previous chapter.

Bibliography

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Hosking, R.J., Dewar, R.L. (2016). Waves in Fluids. In: Fundamental Fluid Mechanics and Magnetohydrodynamics. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-287-600-3_4

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-287-600-3_4

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