Abstract
The sustainability challenges facing the textile and clothing industry are substantial, but both the international and the national regulations of the textile industry are low. Consumers have, therefore, been passed a significant share of the responsibility for ensuring the sustainability. In this chapter, we present and discuss the results on how consumers can reduce the environmental impact of their own behaviour, and whether consumers are capable of and willing to change their own behaviour. Results are based on data retrieved through two research projects on environmental challenges connected to textiles and clothing, and are thus based on a triangulation of methods. Data from desktop studies, in-depth interviews in combination with wardrobe studies and from consumer surveys are used to elucidate the research questions posed. We find that consumers show limited knowledge, as well as limited engagement related to the environmentally preferable textile and clothing consumption. There is little information available to the consumers and environmentally friendly consumption is not facilitated. To place the responsibility for change on consumers is thus to give the responsibility to those without the means to take it. Therefore, solutions based on political consumption alone are insufficient and should be supported with additional regulatory instruments.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Notes
- 1.
The relevant projects from which we will present results are the following:
-
1.
From Textile Waste to Material Resources in a Grave to Cradle Approach
-
2.
A Study of Environmental Standards and the Trade Impact on Indian Textiles and Clothing Sector.
-
1.
- 2.
Not all criticism is directed at all the given tools.
- 3.
Calculation based on jeans that are used once a week during 4 years and washed at 40 °C and ironed after every third wash, which equals to 208 use days and 69 laundering cycles.
- 4.
The data originates from the same survey.
References
Allwood JM et al (2006) Well dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the United Kingdom. University of Cambridge, Institute for Manufacturing, Cambridge. http://www.ifm.eng.cam.ac.uk/uploads/Resources/Other_Reports/UK_textiles.pdf
Ashenburg K (2007) The dirt on clean: an unsanitized history. North Point Press, New York
Austgulen MH (2013) Consumer perspectives on Eco-labelling of textiles: results from five European countries. SIFO, Oslo. http://www.sifo.no/files/file78708_oppdragsrapport_2-2013_web.pdf. Accessed 31 Jan 2013
AWI (2013) AWI Market Intelligence—November 2013 report. Australian Wool Innovation Limited. http://www.wool.com/Content/en-GB/AWI_MonthlyMarketReport_Nov13.pdf. Accessed 3 Dec 2013
Bain J et al (2009) Reducing the environmental impact of clothes cleaning: a research report completed for DEFRA. BIO Intelligence Service in collaboration with Giraffe and Intertek, London. http://www2.wrap.org.uk/downloads/Reducing_the_environmental_impact_of_clothes_cleaning.8e26558b.10844.pdf. Accessed 20 Mar 2014
Basu K (2001) A Better Mousetrap. In: Fung A, O’Rourke D, Sabel CF (eds) Can we put an end to sweatshops? Beacon Press, Boston, pp 59–64
Beck U (1992) Risk society: towards a new modernity. Sage Publications, London
Beck U (2000) What is globalization? (trans: Camiller P). Polity Press, Cambridge
Beton A et al (2014) Environmental improvement potential of textiles (IMPRO-textiles). In: Wolf O et al (eds) JRC scientific and policy reports. European Commission JRC–IPTS, Bio Intelligence Service, and ENSAIT, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles, Sevilla. ftp.jrc.es/EURdoc/JRC85895.pdf. Accessed 20 Mar 2014
Bianchi C, Birtwistle G (2012) Consumer clothing disposal behaviour: a comparative study. Int J Consum Stud 36(3):335–341. doi:10.1111/j.1470-6431.2011.01011.x
Birtwistle G, Moore CM (2007) Fashion clothing—where does it all end up? Int J Retail Distrib Manag 35(3):210–216. doi:10.1108/09590550710735068
Boström M, Klintman M (2008) Eco-standards, product labelling and green consumerism. Palgrave Macmillan, New York
Bresee RR (1986) General effects of ageing on textiles. J Am Inst Conserv 25(1):39–48
Brosdahl DJC, Carpenter JM (2010) Consumer knowledge of the environmental impacts of textile and apparel production, concern for the environment, and environmentally friendly consumption behavior. J Text Appar Technol Manag 6(4):1–9
Butler SM, Francis S (1997) The effects of environmental attitudes on apparel purchasing behavior. Cloth Text Res J 15(2):76–85. doi:10.1177/0887302x9701500202
Börzel T, Risse T (2005) Public–private partnerships: effective and legitimate tools of transnational governance? In: Grande E, Pauly L (eds) Complex sovereignty: reconstructing political authority in the 21st century. University of Toronto Press, Toronto, pp 195–216
Carbon Trust (2011) International carbon flows—clothing (CTC793). Carbon Trust, London. http://www.carbontrust.com/media/38358/ctc793-international-carbon-flows-clothing.pdf. Accessed 16 Aug 2011
Chapman A (2010) Mistra future fashion—review of lice cycle assessments of clothing. Oakdene Hollins Ltd (for Mistra), Aylesbury. http://www.oakdenehollins.co.uk/media/232/2010_mistra_review_of_life_cycle_assessments_of_clothing.pdf
Charbonneau JS (2008) Social responsibility and women’s acquisition of secondhand clothing. Colorado State University, Fort Collins
Colour Connections (2012) How to use the textile Eco-metrics calculator. http://www.colour-connections.com/EcoMetrics/guide/index.html. Accessed 12 Sept 2012
Cuc S, Vidovic M (2011) Environmental sustainability through clothing recycling. Oper Supply Chain Manag 4(2/3):108–115
Devinney TM et al (2010) The myth of the ethical consumer. Cambridge University Press, New York
Domina T, Koch K (1999) Consumer reuse and recycling of post-consumer textile waste. J Fash Mark Manag 3(4):346–359. doi:10.1108/eb022571
Ekström KM et al (2012) Mot en mer hållbar konsumtion: En studie om konsumenters anskaffing och avyttring av kläder [Towards a more sustainable consumption: a study of consumers’ acquisition and disposal of clothing], Vetenskap för profession 20:2012; Högskolan i Borås, Borås. http://bada.hb.se/bitstream/2320/10630/1/Vetenskapnr20.pdf
European Parliament and the Council (2013) Directive 2008/98/EC on waste and repealing certain directives. http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2008:312:0003:0030:EN:pdf. Accessed 16 Aug 2013
Farrant L (2008) Environmental benefits from reusing clothes. Technical University of Denmark, Kgs, Lyngby
Fisher K et al (2011) Benefits of reuse case study: clothing. WRAP, Banbury. http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/Clothing%20reuse_final.pdf. Accessed 16 Aug 2012
Fisher T et al (2008) Public understanding of sustainable clothing: a report to the department for environment food and rural affairs. DEFRA, London. http://randd.defra.gov.uk/Document.aspx?Document=EV0405_7666_FRP.pdf. Accessed 6 Nov 2013
Fletcher K (2008) Sustainable fashion and textiles: design journeys. Earthscan, London
Gam HJ (2011) Are fashion-conscious consumers more likely to adopt Eco-friendly clothing? J Fash Mark Manag 15(2):178–193. doi:10.1108/13612021111132627
Giddens A (1990) The consequences of modernity. Polity Press, Cambridge
Goodland R (1995) The concept of environmental sustainability. Annu Rev Ecol Syst 26:1–24. doi:10.1146/annurev.es.26.110195.000245
Gracey F, Moon D (2012) Valuing our clothes: the evidence base. WRAP. http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/10.7.12%20VOC-%20FINAL.pdf
Grose L (2009) Sustainable cotton production. In: Blackburn RS (ed) Sustainable textiles: life cycle and environmental impact: The Textile Institute. Woodhead Publishing, Oxford, p 394s
Guthman J (2007) The polanyian way? Voluntary food labels as neoliberal governance. Antipode 39(3):456–478
Ha-Brookshire JE, Hodges NN (2009) Socially responsible consumer behavior? Exploring used clothing donation behavior. Cloth Text Res J 27(3):179–196. doi:10.1177/0887302x08327199
Hiller Connell KY (2011) Exploring consumers’ perceptions of Eco-conscious apparel acquisition behaviors. Soc Responsib J 7(1):61–73
Hughes A (2005) Corporate strategy and the management of ethical trade: the case of the UK food and clothing retailers. Environ Plann A 37(7):1145–1163. doi:10.1068/a3753
Jacobsen E, Dulsrud A (2007) Will consumers save the world? The framing of political consumption. J Agr Environ Ethic 20(5):469–482. doi:10.1007/s10806-007-9043-z
Johnson D (1960) A new direction in clothing construction. J Home Econ 52(9):752–753
Joung H-M, Park-Poaps H (2013) Factors motivating and influencing clothing disposal behaviours. Int J Consum Stud 37(1):105–111. doi:10.1111/j.1470-6431.2011.01048.x
Kim H-S, Damhorst M (1998) Environmental concern and apparel consumption. Cloth Text Res J 16(3):126–133
Kjærnes U (2011) Ethics and action: a relational perspective on consumer choice in the European politics of food. J Agr Environ Ethic 25(2):145–162
Klepp IG (2000) Fra eggvendte laken til festlig lapp på baken—Råd og teknikker for å økonomisere med tekstiler 1900–2000, Arbeidsrapport nr. 3-2000. SIFO, Lysaker. http://www.sifo.no/files/file48391_arbeidsrapport3-2000.pdf
Klepp IG (2001) Hvorfor går klær ut av bruk? Avhending sett i forhold til kvinners klesvaner [Why are clothes no longer used? Clothes disposal in relationship to women’s clothing habits], Report no. 3-2001. SIFO, Oslo. http://www.sifo.no/files/file48469_rapport2001-03web.pdf. Accessed 6 Nov 2013
Klepp IG (2003) Fra rent til nyvasket: skittent og rent tøy (Clean to new-washed: dirty clothes—clean habits). National Institute for Consumer Research, Oslo
Klepp IG (2003) Clothes and cleanliness. Why we still spend as much time on laundry. Ethnol Scand 33:61–73
Klepp IG (2007) Patched, louse-ridden, tattered: clean and dirty clothes. Textile 5(3):254–275. doi:10.2752/175183507X249459
Klepp IG, Bjerck M (2012) A methodological approach to the materiality of clothing: wardrobe studies. Int J Soc Res Meth: 1–14. doi:10.1080/13645579.2012.737148
Kruschwitz A et al (2013) How effective are alternative ways of laundry washing? Tenside Surfact Det 50(4):263–269
Kvale S, Brinkmann S (2009) Interviews: learning the craft of qualitative research interviewing. Sage, Los Angeles
Kviseth K (2011) Wool in life cycle assessments and design tools. 2025 Design, Oslo. http://www.sifo.no/files/file77634_wool_in_life_cycle_assessments_and_design_tools.pdf
Labouze E et al (2006) Analyse de Cycle de Vie d’un Pantalon en Jean. ADEME and Bio Intelligence Service S.A.S., France. http://www.biois.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/BIO_Intelligence_Service_ACV_jean_ADEME.pdf. Accessed 12 Sept 2012
Laitala K (Unpublished) Consumers’ clothing reuse: potential in informal reuse
Laitala K, Boks C (2012) Sustainable clothing design: use matters. J Design Res 10(1/2):121–139. doi:10.1504/JDR.2012.046142
Laitala K, Kjeldsberg M (2012) Cleaning effect of alternative laundry products. A comparison of soap nuts, laundry balls, washing pellets, laundry magnets, water and regular detergent. HPC Today 7(4):53–56
Laitala K, Klepp IG (2013) Environmental and ethical perceptions related to clothing labels among Norwegian consumers. Res J Text Appar 17(1):50–58
Laitala K, Klepp IG (2013) Bare mote? Materialitetens betydning for klærs levetid. In: Strandbakken P, Heidenstrøm N (eds) Hinsides symbolverdi—Materialiteten i forbruket. Novus, Oslo, pp 145–167
Laitala K et al (2009) Large? clothing size and size labeling, TemaNord 2009:503. Nordic Council of Ministers, Copenhagen. http://www.norden.org/da/publikationer/publikationer/2009-503/at_download/publicationfile
Laitala K et al (2011) Potential for environmental improvements in laundering. Int J Consum Stud 35(2):254–264. doi:10.1111/j.1470-6431.2010.00968.x
Laitala K et al (2012) Changing laundry habits in Norway. Int J Consum Stud 36(2):228–237. doi:10.1111/j.1470-6431.2011.01081.x
Langley E et al (2013) Clothing longevity and measuring active use. Wrap, Banbury
Levinson M (2001) Wishful Thinking. In: Fung A, O’Rourke D, Sabel CF (eds) Can we put an end to sweatshops? Beacon Press, Boston, pp 54–58
Lloyd JH (1996) Source reduction: reducing household waste in local landfills. North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service. http://www.bae.ncsu.edu/programs/extension/publicat/wqwm/he379.html
Made-By (2011) Environmental benchmark for fibres (Condensed Version). In: Brown L (ed) Wilmanns environmental. MADE-BY, Santa Barbara. http://www.made-by.org/sites/default/files/benchmark/benchmark_environmental_condensed_03082011_pdf_16507.pdf
Madsen J et al (2007) Mapping of evidence on sustainable development impacts that occur in life cycles of clothing: a report to DEFRA. Environmental Resources Management Ltd, London. http://randd.defra.gov.uk/Document.aspx?Document=EV02028_7073_FRP.pdf. Accessed 1 Nov 2013
Markkula A, Moisander J (2012) Discursive confusion over sustainable consumption: a discursive perspective on the perplexity of marketplace knowledge. J Consum Policy 35(1):105–125. doi:10.1007/s10603-011-9184-3
Marx A et al (2012) Private standards and global governance: economic, legal and political perspectives. Edward Elgar, Cheltenham
McGrath AS (2012) Fashioning Sustainability: How the Clothes we wear can support environmental and human well-being. Paper presented at the environmental sciences senior thesis symposium, 22 April 2012. University of California, Berkeley
Micheletti M et al (eds) (2003) Politics, products, and markets: exploring political consumerism past and present. Transaction Publishers, New Brunswick
Miller D (2001) The dialectics of shopping. University of Chicago Press, Chicago
Morley N et al (2009) Maximising reuse and recycling of UK clothing and textiles. A research report completed for the DEFRA by Oakdene Hollins Ltd. http://www.oakdenehollins.co.uk/pdf/defra_173_summary_issue_4.pdf
Muthu SS et al (2012) Quantification of environmental impact and ecological sustainability for textile fibres. Ecol Indic 13(1):66–74. doi:10.1016/j.ecolind.2011.05.008
Muthu SS et al (2013) Modelling and quantification of Eco-functional index: the concept and applications of Eco-functional assessment. Ecol Inidic 26:33–43. doi:10.1016/j.ecolind.2012.10.018
Niinimäki K (2009) Consumer values and ecofashion in the future, in: Future of the Consumer Society. In: Proceedings of the conference “Future of the Consumer Society”, Finland Futures Research Centre, Turku School of Economics, Tampere, Finland, pp 125–134
Nike.inc (2013) Nike Unveils New App to Help Designers Invent Better. (Updated 2 July 2013). http://nikeinc.com/news/nike-unveils-new-app-to-help-designers-invent-better Accessed 17 Oct 2013
Nordås HK (2004) The global textile and clothing industry post the agreement on textiles and clothing, discussion paper no. 5. World Trade Organization, Geneva
Oeko-tex (2014) Certified products. https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/consumers/certified_products_consumers/certified_products_consumers.html. Accessed 23 Jan 2014
Otto R et al (2006) Assessment of the environmental impact of household appliances. Appliance magazine 32–35 (April). http://www.appliancemagazine.com/print.php?article=1393&zone=215&first=1. Accessed 13 Dec 2010
Pakula C, Stamminger R (2010) Electricity and water consumption for laundry washing by washing machine worldwide. Energ Effi 3(4):365–382. doi:10.1007/s12053-009-9072-8
Patterson P (2013) MSI + SAC = Objectivity. Does it all add up? Ecotextile News (56):28–30
Perschau A (2013) Sustainable cotton: the demand-supply paradox. Ecotextile News (54):35–37
Russell IM (2009) Sustainable wool production and processing. In: Blackburn RS (ed) Sustainable textiles: life cycle and environmental impact: The Textile Institute. Woodhead Publishing, Oxford, p 394
Rutala WA, Weber D (2001) A review of single-use and reusable gowns and drapes in health care. Infect Contr Hosp Epidemiol 22(4):248–257
Saouter E et al (2002) The effect of compact formulations on the environmental profile of Northern European granular laundry detergents—part II: life cycle assessment. Int J LCA 7(1):27–38. doi:10.1007/BF02978907
Shove E (2003) Comfort, cleanliness and convenience: the social organization of normality. Berg, Oxford
Siegle L (2011) To die for: is fashion wearing out the world? Fourth Estate, London
Southerton D et al (eds) (2004) Sustainable consumption: the implications of changing infrastructures of provision. Edward Elgard Publishing Limited, Cheltenham
Statistics Norway (2011) Statistisk årbok. Statistisk Sentralbyrå, Oslo/Kongsvinger. http://www.ssb.no/a/histstat/aarbok/2011.pdf. Accessed 28 Mar 2014
Statistics Norway (2013) Table 08801: external trade in goods, by commodity number (HS) and country. SSB
Stø E, Laitala K (2011) Sustainable standards in textile labels, a literature overview project deliverable from the SESTI project. SIFO, Oslo
Sustainable Apparel Coalition (2012) The Higg Index 1.0. http://www.apparelcoalition.org/higgindex/. Accessed 13 Sept 2012
Turley DB et al (2010) The role and business case for existing and emerging fibres in sustainable clothing: final report to the department for environment. Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA), London, UK. http://randd.defra.gov.uk/Document.aspx?Document=EV0420_9092_FRP.pdf
Uitdenbogerd DE et al (1998) Domestic energy saving potentials for food and textiles: an empirical study, H&C onderzoeksrapport 2. Wageningen Agricultural University, Household and Consumer Studies, Wageningen
Ungerth L, Carlsson A (2011) Vad händer sen med våra kläder? Enkätundersökning; Konsumentföreningen, Stockholm. http://www.konsumentforeningenstockholm.se/Global/Konsument%20och%20Milj%c3%b6/Rapporter/KfS%20rapport_april11_Vad%20h%c3%a4nder%20sen%20med%20v%c3%a5ra%20kl%c3%a4der.pdf. Accessed 5 Nov 2013
Vaage OF (2012) Tidene skifter. Tidsbruk 1971-2010. Statistics Norway, Oslo–Kongsvinger. http://www.ssb.no/emner/00/02/20/sa125/sa125.pdf
Vogel D (2005) The market for virtue: the potential and limits of corporate social responsibility. Brookings Institution Press, Washington
Webb K (ed) (2002) Voluntary codes: private governance, the public interest and innovation. Charleston University, Ottawa
World Commission on Environment and Development (1987) Our common future. Oxford University Press, Oxford
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2014 Springer Science+Business Media Singapore
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Laitala, K., Austgulen, M.H., Klepp, I.G. (2014). Responsibility Without Means. In: Muthu, S. (eds) Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing. Textile Science and Clothing Technology. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-287-110-7_5
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-287-110-7_5
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Singapore
Print ISBN: 978-981-287-109-1
Online ISBN: 978-981-287-110-7
eBook Packages: EngineeringEngineering (R0)