Skip to main content

Challenging Current Fashion Business Models: Entrepreneurship Through Access-Based Consumption in the Second-Hand Luxury Garment Sector Within a Circular Economy

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Sustainable Luxury

Abstract

The purpose of this chapter is to investigate drivers of (non)participation in access-based consumption and the underpinning motives of becoming (or not) a micro-entrepreneur within the circular economy. Peer-to-peer platforms and drivers of (non)participation within the context of the UK’s second-hand luxury market are currently under-researched. This chapter is exploratory in nature and utilises a qualitative research approach. This study conducts semi-structured interviews with consumers from varied demographical backgrounds to gain an insight into consumers’ perceptions of access-based consumption and sustainability. Findings identified drivers of (non)participation and the emergences of a (potentially) new micro-entrepreneur. It is further explored whether this would be a feasible business model for the future with consumers actively buying into the access-based concept. Although findings cannot be generalised, the data provides thinking points for future research and investigates an economically significant context. Gaining an insight into this newly emerging trend could help retailers to capitalise on disruptive innovations and change consumer perceptions of partaking in access-based consumption. Thus far, drivers of (non)participation in the context of the UK’s second-hand luxury industry remain under-researched, and the economic significance of the sector indicates the necessity of this research.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

eBook
USD 16.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 89.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 119.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  • Akbar, P., Mai, R., & Hoffmann, S. (2016). When do materialistic consumers join commercial sharing systems. Journal of Business Research, 69, 4215–4224.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Armstrong, A., & Page, N. (2015). Creativity and constraint: Leadership and management in the UK creative industries. Creative Skillset. Retrieved January 26, 2018 from https://creativeskillset.org/assets/0001/5933/Creativity_and_constraint_leadership_and_management_in_UK_2015.pdf.

  • Bardhi, F., & Eckhardt, G. M. (2012). Access-based consumption: The case of car sharing. Journal of Consumer Research, 39, 881–898.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Belk, R. (2014). You are what you can access: Sharing and collaborative consumption online. Journal of Business Research, 67(8), 1595–1600.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bellotti, V., Ambard, A., Turner, D., Gossmann, C., Demkova, K., & Carroll, J. M. (2015). A muddle of models of motivation for using peer-to-peer economy systems, CHI 2015, April 18–23, 2015, Seoul: Republic of Korea.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bian, Q., & Forsythe, S. (2012). Purchase intention for luxury brands: A cross cultural comparison. Journal of Business Research, 65(1), 1443–1451.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bodgan, R., Taylor, S. J., & DeVault, M. (2015). Introduction to qualitative research methods: A guidebook and resource. Hoboken, New Jersey: John Wiley & Sons Inc.

    Google Scholar 

  • Botsman, R., & Rogers, R. (2010). What’s mine is yours—How collaborative consumption is changing the way we live. London: Harper Collins Publishers.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bucher, E., Fiesler, C., & Lutz, C. (2016). What’s mine is yours (for a nominal fee)—Exploring the spectrum of utilitarian to altruistic motives for internet-mediated sharing. Computer in Human Behaviour, 62, 316–326.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Butler, S. (2017) Gucci owner gest teeth into snakeskin market with python farm. The Guardian. Retrieved October 26, 2017 from https://www.theguardian.com/business/2017/jan/25/gucci-snakeskin-python-farm-kering-saint-laurent-and-alexander-mcqueen.

  • Cervellon, M.-C., Carey, L., & Harms, T. (2012). Something old, something used: Determinants of women’s purchase of vintage fashion vs second-hand fashion. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 40(12), 956–974.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Channel 4. (2017). Undercover: Britain’s cheap clothes: Channel 4 Dispatches. Channel 4. Retrieved September 18 2017 from http://www.channel4.com/info/press/news/undercover-britains-cheap-clothes-channel-4-dispatches.

  • Chen, J., & Kim, S. (2013). A comparison of Chinese consumers’ intentions to purchase luxury fashion brands for self-use and for gifts. Journal of International Consumer Marketing, 25(1), 29–44.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Clifford, E. (2011). Consumer attitudes towards luxury brands. UK, November 2011. Mintel, London.

    Google Scholar 

  • Danziger, P. (2005). Let them eat cake: Marketing luxury to the masses—As well as the classes. New York: Dearborn Trade Publisher.

    Google Scholar 

  • Drapers. (2013). Drapers luxury report 2013. Drapers. Retrieved January 26, 2018 from https://www.drapersonline.com/Journals/2015/07/09/h/k/h/2013-Nov-16-Luxury-Report.pdf.

  • Easterby-Smith, M., Thorpe, R., & Jackson, P. R. (2012). Management research. London: Sage.

    Google Scholar 

  • Eastman, J. K., Goldsmith, R. E., & Flynn, L. R. (1999). Status consumption in consumer behaviour: Scale development and validation. Journal of Marketing Theory and Practice, 7(3), 41–52.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Fletcher, K. (2008). Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design journeys. Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design journeys. Earth Scan: London.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gardetti, M. A., & Torres, A. L. (Eds.). (2013). Sustainability in fashion and textiles: Values, design, production and consumption. Sheffield, UK: Greenleaf Publishing.

    Google Scholar 

  • Ghisellini, P., Cialani, C., & Ulgiati, S. (2016). A review on circular economy: The expected transition to a balanced interplay of environmental and economic systems. Journal of Cleaner Production, 114, 11–32.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Gleim, M., & Lawson, S. J. (2014). Spanning the gap: An examination of the factors leading to the green gap. Journal of Consumer Marketing, 31(6/7), 503–514.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Guiot, D., & Roux, D. (2010). A second-hand shoppers’ motivation scale: Antecedents, consequences, and implications for retailers. Journal of Retailing, 86(4), 383–399.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Henninger, C. E., Alevizou, P. J., Goworek, H., & Ryding, D. (2017a). Sustainability in fashion—A cradle to upcycle approach. Heidelberg: Springer.

    Google Scholar 

  • Henninger, C. E., Alevizou, P. J., & Oates, C. J. (2016). What is sustainable fashion? Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 20(4), 400–416.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Henninger, C. E., Alevizou, P. J., Tan, J., Huang, Q., & Ryding, D. (2017b). Consumption strategies and motivations of Chinese consumers—The case of UK sustainable luxury fashion. Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management, 21(3), 419–434.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Isla, V. L. (2013). Investigating second-hand fashion trade and consumption in the Philippines: Expanding existing discourses. Journal of Consumer Culture, 13(3), 221–240.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Joy, A., Sherry, J. F., Jr., Venkatesh, A., Wang, J., & Chan, R. (2012). Fast fashion, sustainability, and the ethical appeal of luxury brands. Fashion Theory, 16(3), 273–295.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Karaosman, H., Brun, A., & Morales-Alonso, G. (2017). Vogue or vague: Sustainability performance appraisal in luxury fashion supply chains. In Sustainable management of luxury (pp. 301–330).

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Kastanakis, M. N., & Balabanis, G. (2014). Explaining variations in conspicuous luxury consumption: an individual differences’ perspective. Journal of Business Research, 67(10), 2147–2154.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kestenbaum, R. (2017). Fashion retailers have to adapt to deal with secondhand clothes sold online. Forbes. Retrieved January 26, 2018 from https://www.forbes.com/sites/richardkestenbaum/2017/04/11/fashion-retailers-have-to-adapt-to-deal-with-secondhand-clothes-sold-online/#476d48901a7f.

  • Lastovicka, J. L., Bettencourt, L. A., Hughner, R. S., & Kuntze, R. J. (1999). Lifestyle of the tight and frugal: Theory and measurement. Journal of Consumer Research, 26(1), 85–98.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Li, G., Li, G., & Kambele, Z. (2012). Luxury fashion brand consumers in China: Perceived value, fashion lifestyle, and willingness to pay. Journal of Business Research, 65(10), 1516–1522.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Matzler, K., Waiguny, M., & Füller, J. (2007). Spoiled for choice: Consumer confusion in internet-based mass customization. Innovative Marketing Journal, 3(3), 7–18.

    Google Scholar 

  • McDonough, W., & Braungart, M. (2002). Cradle to cradle: Remaking the way we do things. New York, USA: North Point Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Niinimäki, K. (2013). Sustainable fashion: New approaches. Helsinki, Finland: Aalto ARTS Books.

    Google Scholar 

  • Park, H., & Armstrong, C. M. J. (2017). Collaborative apparel consumption in the digital sharing economy: An agenda for academic inquiry. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 41, 465–474.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Perlacia, A. S., Duml, V., & Saebi, T. (2016). Collaborative consumption: Live fashion, don’t own it (Doctoral dissertation, Norwegian School of Economics).

    Google Scholar 

  • Phau, I., & Prendergast, G. (2000). Consuming luxury brands: The relevance of the ‘rarity principle’. Journal of Brand Management, 8(2), 122–138.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Rude, L. (2015). 4 keys to a successful sharing economy business model. Text100. Retrieved January 26, 2018 from https://www.text100.com/2015/05/11/sucessful-sharing-economy-business-model/.

  • Ryding, D., Henninger, C. E., & Blazquez Cano, M. (forthcoming). Vintage luxury fashion: Exploring the rise of secondhand clothing trade. Palgrave Advances in Luxury Series. London: Springer.

    Google Scholar 

  • Schaefers, T., Wittkowski, K., Benoit, S., & Ferraro, R. (2016). Contagious effects of customer misbehavior in access-based services. Journal of Service Research, 19(1), 3–21.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Schwartz, A. (2015). Regulating for rationality. Stanford Law Review, 67(6), 1373–1410.

    Google Scholar 

  • Stephany, A. (2015). The business of sharing: Making it in the new sharing economy. The business of sharing: Making it in the new sharing economy. Basingstoke: Palgrave.

    Google Scholar 

  • Thomas, D. (2007). Deluxe: How luxury lost its luster. New York: Columbia University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Tsai, S. (2005). Impact of personal orientation on luxury-brand purchase value: An international investigation. International Journal of Market Research, 47(4), 427–452.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Turunen, L. L. M. (2017). Interpretations of luxury: Exploring the consumer perspective. Basingstoke, UK: Palgrave.

    Google Scholar 

  • Turunen, L. L. M., & Leipämaa-Leskinen, H. (2015). Pre-loved luxury: Identifying the meanings of second-hand luxury possessions. Journal of Product & Brand Management, 24(1), 57–65.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Tynan, C., McKechnie, S., & Chhuon, C. (2010). Co-creating value for luxury brands. Journal of Business Research, 63(11), 1156–1163.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Veblen, T. (1889). The theory of the leisure class. Boston, MA: Houghton Mifflin.

    Google Scholar 

  • Vigneron, F., & Johnson, L. W. (2004). Measuring perceptions of brand luxury. Journal of Brand Management, 11(6), 484–506.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Walker, S. (2006). Sustainable by design: Explorations in theory and practice. London: Earthscan.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wang, Y., & Griskevicius, V. (2014). Conspicuous consumption, relationships, and rivals: Women’s luxury products as signals to other women. Journal of Consumer Research, 40(5), 834–854.

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Shuang Hu .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2019 Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd.

About this chapter

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this chapter

Hu, S., Henninger, C.E., Boardman, R., Ryding, D. (2019). Challenging Current Fashion Business Models: Entrepreneurship Through Access-Based Consumption in the Second-Hand Luxury Garment Sector Within a Circular Economy. In: Gardetti, M., Muthu, S. (eds) Sustainable Luxury. Environmental Footprints and Eco-design of Products and Processes. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-0623-5_3

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics