Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

A Review of Some Sustainable Methods in Wool Dyeing

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Sustainable Innovations in Textile Chemistry and Dyes

Part of the book series: Textile Science and Clothing Technology ((TSCT))

Abstract

During the recent years, a good deal of research was carried out in developing natural dyes and mordants in dyeing of different natural fibres, which has paved the way towards achieving sustainability in the area of wet processing. This chapter highlights some significant trends in eco-friendly methods of wool dyeing. The influences of dye kind of mordant and dye concentration on the colour characteristics of dyed wool fibres have been studied. In order to quantify assessment of the influences of kind of mordant and concentration of dye, the calorimetric properties including colour strength, colour difference and colour coordinates have been considered. The findings reveal that the wool has great attraction for pinecone dye liquid, and mordant methods adopted show various shades between beige to brown which have good fastness. The reaction between diphenolic catechol and enzymes of potato juice has been used for optimization of wool colouration. No surplus chemicals are required for colour formation at low temperature. Investigation has been carried out on the effect of process variables such as temperature and corresponding concentration of catechol and plant juice on the colour intensity of the fabric. The temperature is found to significantly affect the colour strength. Wool dyed with different colours possess wash and light fastness. Fermented kum leaves have been applied on wool and comparative studies using traditional method of cold and heating process and chemical method using metallic salts have been investigated with regard to colour fastness properties, tensile strength and elongation percentage. The colour fastness in chemical as well as traditional methods exhibits fair to excellent results. The traditional hot method gives better results compared to the cold one. In order to study the colour fastness properties of colourant on wool fibres dyed with a natural dye extracted from the leaves of Symplocus Racemosa different mordants in combination with lemon juice have been used in suitable proportions. The test results of the dyed fabrics with regard to wash, rub, light and perspiration fastness have yielded fair to excellent fastness grades. Investigations have been carried out on kinetic and thermodynamic aspects of wool fabric using crude dye extract of A. Nobilis and compared with other natural dyes. Various dyeing parameters have been evaluated. All the dyeing methods discussed herein are good attempts to achieve sustainability. Each dyeing method offers its own merits besides achieving good properties. The advantages include optimization of dyeing process, better dyeability, affinity, flexibility in dyeing with other fibres besides wool, cost economy, improvement in properties, better utilization of natural resources, avoidance of harmful chemicals, etc.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Log in via an institution
Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 79.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 99.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 99.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  1. Hadzhiyska H, Calafell M, Gilbert J, Daga JM, Tzanov TZ (2006) Biotechnol Lett 28:755

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  2. Deo HT, Paul R (2003) Int Dyer 188:49

    Google Scholar 

  3. Mansour R, Ezzili B, Farouk M (2013) Fibres Polym 14:786

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  4. Mongkholrattansit R, Keysteufek J, Weiner J (2009) J Nat Fibres 6:319

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  5. Akimpou G, Rongmei K, Yadava PS (2005) Indian J Tradit Knowl 4(1):33

    Google Scholar 

  6. Sharma HM, Devi AR, Sharma BM (2005) Indian J Tradit Knowl 4(1):39

    Google Scholar 

  7. Lunalisa P, Ningombam S, Laintonjam WS (2007) Indian J Tradit Knowl 7(1):141

    Google Scholar 

  8. Singh NR, Yaiphaba N, David T, Babita RK, Ch DB, Singh NR (2009) Indian J Tradit Knowl 8(1):84

    Google Scholar 

  9. Ningombam DS, Ningthoujam SS, Singh PK, Singh OB (2012) Ethnobot Res Appl 10:561

    Google Scholar 

  10. Gaur RD (2008) Nat Prod Rad 7(2):154

    Google Scholar 

  11. Dayal R, Dhobal PC (2001) Colourage 48:33

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  12. Martinez MJA, Benito PB (2005) Studies in natural product chemistry: bioactive products (Part K). In: Rehman AU (ed). BV Elsevier, New York, p 303

    Google Scholar 

  13. Onifade AA, Al-Sane NA, Al-Zarban SA (1999) Biores Technol 66:1

    Article  Google Scholar 

  14. Steiner RJ, Kellems RO, Church DC (1983) J Anim Sci 57:495

    Article  Google Scholar 

  15. Weigmann HD, Kamath YK, Ruestch SB, Busch P, Tesmann H (1990) J Soc Cosmet Chem 44:387

    Google Scholar 

  16. Kim WM, Kendhal M, Sherman L (1990) US Patent 4, 906, 460 (to Sorenco, Salt Lake City, Utah)

    Google Scholar 

  17. Remadnia A, Dheilly RM, Laidoudi B, Queneudec M (2009) Constr Build Mater 23:3118

    Article  Google Scholar 

  18. Timmons SF, Blanchard CR, Smith RA (2000) US Patent 6, 159, 495

    Google Scholar 

  19. Shikura T, Izumi N, Matsumoto S (1994) Japanese Patent 6

    Google Scholar 

  20. Datta MS (1993) J Ind Leather Assoc 43:297

    Google Scholar 

  21. Van Dyke ME, Blanchard CR, Timmons SF, Siller-Jackson A, Smith RA (2001) US Patent 6, 270, 791, B1

    Google Scholar 

  22. Sehgal PK, Sastry TP, Mahendrakumar M (1986) Leather Sci 33:333

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  23. Balint B, Bagi Z, Toth A, Rakhely G, Perei K, Kovacs KL (2005) Appl Microbiol Biotechnol 69:404

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  24. Cardomone JM, Martin JJ (2008) Macromol Symp 272:161

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  25. Li K, Xu F, Eriksson K (1999) Appl Environ Biol 65:2654

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  26. Robles A, Lucas R, De Cienfuegos AG, Galvez A (2000) Enzyme Microbiol Technol 26:484

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  27. Tzanov T, Silva C, Zille A, Oliviera J, Cavao-Paulo A (2003) Appl Biochem Biotechnol 111:1

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  28. Blanco CD, Gonzalaez MD, Daga Monmany JM, Tzanov T (2009) Enzyme Microbiol Technol 44:380

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  29. Kim SY, Zille A, Murkovic M, Guebitz G, Cavacopaulo A (2007) Enzyme Microbiol Technol 40:1782

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  30. Kim S, Lopez C, Guebitz G, Cavacopaulo A (2008) Eng Life Sci 8(3):324

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  31. Guimaraes C, Kim S, Silva C, Cavacopaulo A (2011) Biotechnol J 6:1272

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  32. Lokra S, Schuller RB, Egelandsdal B, Engebretsen B, Straetkvern KO (2009) LWT Food Sci Technol 42:906

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  33. Thygesen PW, Dry IB, Robinson SP (1995) Plant Physiol 109:525

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  34. Malmstrom B, Ryden L (1968) Biological oxidations. T-Singer Interscience Publications, New York, p 419

    Google Scholar 

  35. https://biochemchronicles.wordpress.com/2013/04/14/enzymatic browning

  36. Rout Mayer MA, Ralambosoa J, Phippon J (1990) Phytochemistry 29:435

    Article  Google Scholar 

  37. Lee CY, Whitaker JR (eds) (1995) ACS sympossium series 600. American Chemistry, Washington, p 49

    Google Scholar 

  38. Bradford MM (1976) Anal Biochem 72:248

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  39. Natarajan SK, Gupta D (2016) Biomimetic coloration of wool using plant juice. Indian J Fibres Text Res 41:306

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  40. Deo HT, Paul R (2003) Int Dyer 188:49

    Google Scholar 

  41. Mansour R, Ezzili B, Farouk M (2013) Fibers Polym 14:786

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  42. Mongkholrattanasit R, Krystufek J, Weiner J (2009) J Nat Fibres 6:319

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  43. Ekarmi E, Mafi M, Saberi Motlagh M (2011) World Appl Sci J 13:996

    Google Scholar 

  44. Saravanan P, Chandramohan G (2011) Univ J Environ Res Technol 1:268

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  45. Crews PC (1987) Study Conserv 32:65

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  46. Kilic A, Hafisoglu H, Tumen I, Donmez IE, Sirvrikaya H, Hemming J (2009) Euro J Wood Product

    Google Scholar 

  47. Sakagami H, Kawazoe Y, Komatsu N, Simpson A (1991) Anticancer Res 11:881

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  48. Momsilovic MZ, Onjia AE, Purenovic MM, Zarubika AR, Randelovic MS (2012) J Serb Chem Soc 77:761

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  49. Berraksu N, Ayan EM, Mahmoodi NM, Hayati B, Arami M (2011) J Color Sci Technol 5:243

    Google Scholar 

  50. Gharachorlou A, Kiadaliri H, Adeli E, Alijaanpoor A (2010) World Appl Sci J 8:334

    Google Scholar 

  51. Yaneva ZL, Georgieva NV (2012) Int Rev Chem Eng 4:127

    Google Scholar 

  52. Torskngerpoll K, Anderson OM (2005) Food Chem 89:427

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  53. Saeed S, Meghdad KM, Somayeh S, Sayed MM (2016) Properties of wool dyed with pinecone powder as a by–product colorant. Indian J Fibres Text Res 41:173

    Google Scholar 

  54. Adeel S, Ali S, Bhatti IA, Zhisla F (2009) Asian J Chem 21(5):3493

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  55. Samanta AK, Agarwal P, Konar A, Datta S (2008) Int Dyers 193(4):25

    Google Scholar 

  56. Mutua B (1997) Traditional textiles of Manipur. Mutua Museum, Keishampat

    Google Scholar 

  57. Mutua B (2000) Tribal Hand woven fabrics of Manipur. Mutua Museum, Keishampat

    Google Scholar 

  58. Singh NR, Traditional dyeing skills of the Meities (2003) Proceedings, National seminar on science, philosophy, and culture in Manipur language and literature. Manipur University, Canchipur, Manipur, India, p 14

    Google Scholar 

  59. Akimpou G, Rongmei K, Yadava PS (2005) Indian J Tradit Knowl 4(1):33

    Google Scholar 

  60. Sharma HM, Devi AR, Sharma BM (2005) Indian J Tradit Knowl 4(1):39

    Google Scholar 

  61. Lunalisa P, Ningombam S, Laitonjam WS (2007) Indian J Tradit Knowl 7(1):141

    Google Scholar 

  62. Singh NR, Yaiphaba N, David Th, Babita RK, Devi BCh, Singh NR (2009) Indian J Tradit Knowl 8(1):84–88

    Google Scholar 

  63. Ningombam DS, Ningthoujam SS, Singh PK, Singh OB (2012) Ethnobot Res Appl 10:561

    Google Scholar 

  64. Deb DB (1961) Bull Bot Surv India 3:253

    Google Scholar 

  65. Handbook of textile testing, 1st edn. Bureau of Indian standards, New Delhi, 1982, Revised edition 1986

    Google Scholar 

  66. Khan MR, Omoloso AD, Kihar M (2003) Fitoterapia 74(5):501

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  67. Khan MR, Khan M, Srivatsav PK, Mohammed F, Colorage F (2006) 56(1):61

    Google Scholar 

  68. Kongkachuichay P, Shitangkoon A, Chingwongomen N (2001) Sci Asia 28(2):161

    Article  Google Scholar 

  69. Samanta AK, Agarwal P (2009) Indian J Fibres Text Res 34:384

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  70. Singh SV, Purohit MC (2012) Univ J Environ Res Technol 2(2):48

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  71. Crews PC (1982) J Am Inst Conserv 21(2):43

    Article  Google Scholar 

  72. Samanta AK, Agarwal P, Datta S (2006) J Inst Eng (India) Text Eng 87:16

    Google Scholar 

  73. Chattopadhyay DP (2009) Color Technol 125(5):262

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  74. Forouharshad M, Montazer M, Yadollah R (2013) J Text Inst 40(3):6

    Google Scholar 

  75. Chowdhury SN (1984) Mulberry silk industry. Directorate of sericulture and weaving, Govt. of Assam, Assam, India, p 175

    Google Scholar 

  76. Hojo N (2002) Structure of silk yarn biological and physical aspects. Oxford and IBH Publishing Co. Pvt. Ltd., p 96

    Google Scholar 

  77. Syed U, Ahmed RJ (2011) Mehran Univ Res J Eng Technol 32(1):133

    Google Scholar 

  78. Gogoi A (1999) Indian Text J 107(11):21

    Google Scholar 

  79. Gohl EPG, Vilensky LD (1993) Textile for modern living, 5th edn. Longman Cheshire, p 120

    Google Scholar 

  80. Gaur RD (2008) Nat Prod Rad 7(2):154

    Google Scholar 

  81. Dayal R, Dhobal PC (2001) Colourage 48:33

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  82. Nishida K, Kabayashi K (1992) Am Dyest Rep 81(9):26

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  83. Vinod KN, Puttaswamy T, Gowda KNN, Sudhakar R (2010) Indian J Fibre Text Res 35:159

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  84. Kumaresan M, Palanisamy N, Kumar PE (2011) Int J Chem Res 2(1):11

    Google Scholar 

  85. Gulrajani ML, Gupta D (1992) Introduction to natural dyes. Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, P 81

    Google Scholar 

  86. Anderson B (1971) Creative spinning, weaving, and plant dyeing. Angus and Robinson, Singapore, P 24

    Google Scholar 

  87. Bains S, Kaur K, Kang S (2005) Colourage 52(5):51

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  88. Anitha K, Prasad SN (2007) Curr Sci 92(12):1681

    Google Scholar 

  89. Martinez MJA, Benito PB (2005) Studies in natural product chemistry: bioactive natural products (Part K). Rehman AU (ed). BV Elsevier, New York, p 303

    Google Scholar 

  90. Mahangade RR, Varadarajan PV, Verma JK, Bosco H (2009) Indian J Fibres Text Res 34:279

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  91. Samanta AK, Aggarwal P (2009) Indian J Fibres Text Res 34:384

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  92. Vankar PS, Shankar R, Wijayapala S (2009) J Text Appar Technol Manag 6(1):30

    Google Scholar 

  93. Dye plants and dyeing (1982) A handbook. Brooklyn Botanical Garden, Brooklyn, p 112255

    Google Scholar 

  94. Li K, Wang Z (1995) China Patent CN 1116923 (to Faming Zhuanli Shenquing Gongkai Shoumingshu), 18 March 1995

    Google Scholar 

  95. Arora A, Rastogi D, Gulrajani ML, Gupta D Color Technol

    Google Scholar 

  96. Arora A, Rastogi D, Gulrajani ML, Gupta D (2012) Indian J Fibres Text Res 37:91

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  97. Indrayan AK, Yadav V, Kumar R, Tyagi PK (2004) J Indian Chem Soc 81:717

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  98. Kyu LW, Soo YG (1980) Yakhak Hoechi 24(3–4):151

    Google Scholar 

  99. Gupta DB, Gulrajani ML (1994) J Dyers Color 110:112

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  100. Gupta DB, Gulrajani ML (1993) Indian J Fibres Text Res 18:202

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  101. Gulrajani ML, Gupta D, Maulik SR (1999) Indian J Fibres Text Res 24:294

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  102. Bairagi N, Gulrajani ML (2005) Indian J Fibres Text Res 30:196

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  103. Gupta D, Kumari S, Gulrajani ML (2001) Color Technol 117:328

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  104. Gupta D, Kumari S, Gulrajani ML (2001) Color Technol 117:328

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  105. Gulrajani ML, Gupta D, Maulik SR (1999) Indian J Fibres Text Res 24:131

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  106. Gulrajani ML, Gupta D, Maulik SR (1999) Indian J Fibres Text Res 24:223

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  107. Das D, Maulik SR, Bhattacharya SC (2008) Indian J Fibres Text Res 33:163

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  108. Gulrajani ML, Bhaumik S, Oppermann, Hardtmann G (2002) Indian J Fibres Text Res 27:91

    Google Scholar 

  109. Johnson A (1989) The theory of coloration of textiles. In: Sumner HH (ed). Society of Dyers and Colorists, England, p 255

    Google Scholar 

  110. Triegiene R, Musnickas J (2003) Chemija 14(3):145

    Google Scholar 

  111. Onifade AA, Al-Sane NA, Al-Musallam AA, Al-Zarban SA (1999) Biores Technol 66:1

    Article  Google Scholar 

  112. Steiner RJ, Kellems RO, Church DC (1983) J Anim Sci 57:495

    Article  Google Scholar 

  113. Weigmann HD, Kamath YK, Ruestesh SB, Busch P, Tesmann H (1990) J Soc Cosmet Chem 44:387

    Google Scholar 

  114. Kim WM, Kendhal W, Sherman L (1990) US Patent 4, 906, 460 (to Sorenco, Salt lake city, Utah)

    Google Scholar 

  115. Remadnia A, Dheilley RM, Laidoudi B, Queneudec M (2009) Constr Build Mater 23:3118

    Article  Google Scholar 

  116. Timmons SF, Blanchard CR, Smith RA (2000) US Patent 6, 159, 495 (to Keraplast Technologies Ltd., San Antonio, TX, USA)

    Google Scholar 

  117. Shikura T, Izumi N, Matsumoto S (1994) Japenese Patent 06, 40,786 (to Japan kokai Tokyo Koho)

    Google Scholar 

  118. Datta MS (1993) J Ind Leather Technol Assoc 43:297

    Google Scholar 

  119. Van Dyke ME, Blanchard CR, Timmons SF, Siller-Jackson A, Smith RA (2001) US Patent 6, 270,791, B1 (to Keraplast Technologies Ltd., San Antonio, TX, USA)

    Google Scholar 

  120. Sehgal PK, Sastry TP, Mahendrakumar M (1986) Leather Sci 33:333

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  121. Balint B, Bagi Z, Toth A, Rakhely G, Perei K, Kovacs KL (2005) Appl Microbiol Biotechnol 69:404

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  122. Cardamone JM, Martin JJ (2008) Macromol Symp 272:161

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  123. Katoh K, Shibayama M, Tabane T, Yamauchi K (2004) Biomaterials 25:2265

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  124. Tanabe T, Okitsu N, Yamauchi K (2004) Mater Sci Eng C24:441

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  125. Nakamura AN, Arimoto M, Takeuchi T, Fujii TM (2002) Biol Pharmocol Bull 25(5):569

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  126. Kantouch A, Allam O, El-Gabry L, El-Sayeed H (2012) Effect of pretreatment of wool fabric with keratin on its dyeability with acid and reactive dyes. Indian J Fibres Text Res 37:157

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  127. Mozes TE (1988) Text Prog 17(3):1

    Google Scholar 

  128. Knott J (1971) Wool Sci Rev 41:2

    Google Scholar 

  129. Zhao W (1986) Text Res J 56(12):741

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  130. Gouveia IC, Queiroz JA, Fiadeiro JM (2005) Proceedings, 11th international wool research conference. The department of color and polymer chemistry, university of leeds, UK

    Google Scholar 

  131. Gouveia IC, Queiroz JA, Fiadeiro JM (2008) AATCC Rev 8(10):38

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  132. Sedelnik N (1998) Fibres Text East Eur:39

    Google Scholar 

  133. Rong ZP, Hua ZJ (1990) Proceedings, 8th international wool conference, vol 3. Wool Research Organization of New Zealand, Christchurch, New Zealand, p 195

    Google Scholar 

  134. El-Sayed H, El-Gabry L, Kantouch F (2010) Effect of biocarbonization of coarse wool on its dyeability. Indian J Fibres Text Res 35:330

    CAS  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Department of Textile Technology, Park College of Engineering and Technology, Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu, India

    N. Gokarneshan

Authors
  1. N. Gokarneshan
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to N. Gokarneshan .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

  1. Bestseller, Hong Kong, Hong Kong

    Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2018 Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd.

About this chapter

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this chapter

Gokarneshan, N. (2018). A Review of Some Sustainable Methods in Wool Dyeing. In: Muthu, S. (eds) Sustainable Innovations in Textile Chemistry and Dyes. Textile Science and Clothing Technology. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-8600-7_2

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-8600-7_2

  • Published:

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Singapore

  • Print ISBN: 978-981-10-8599-4

  • Online ISBN: 978-981-10-8600-7

  • eBook Packages: EngineeringEngineering (R0)

Publish with us

Policies and ethics

Search

Navigation