Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

Sustainable Luxury Fashion: A Vehicle for Salvaging and Revaluing Indigenous Culture

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Ethnic Fashion

Abstract

Sustainable luxury is coming back into favor, essentially with its ancestral meaning, i.e., thoughtful purchasing, with consideration of artisan style manufacturing, assessment of product beauty in its broadest sense, and respect for social and environmental issues. In addition, it also means consideration of craftsmanship and innovation of different nationalities and preservation of local and ancestral cultural heritage. The relationship between luxury, textiles, and fashion is quite an ambiguous one, as textiles and fashion do not fully belong to the luxury world but overlap with luxury in its most expensive and exclusive segments. Both luxury and fashion share the common need for social differentiation, but they also differ in two major aspects. First, luxury is timeless whereas fashion is ephemeral. Second, luxury is for self-reward whereas fashion is not. Thus, the term ‘luxury-fashion’ seems to consist of two inherently contradictory expressions, i.e., as a luxury product it is supposed to last, although as a fashion product it is expected to change frequently. Nevertheless, because the essence of fashion is change, luxury fashion gives exclusive access to enforced change. Luxury fashion is recurrent change at its highest level, and it is distinguished from other luxury segments by its constant pressure for change. However, beyond these contradictions, luxury fashion should not necessarily come into conflict with sustainable principles. In this chapter we present a number of real-world case studies—Pachacuti (UK), Carmen Rion (México), Aïny (France), Loro Piana (Italy), Ermenegildo Zegna (Italy), and Hermès (France)—to demonstrate how sustainable luxury fashion can become a vehicle for salvaging and revaluing indigenous cultures.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Log in via an institution
eBook
USD 16.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 99.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 109.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Notes

  1. 1.

    The criteria needed to be met to receive the Award are:

    • Social aspects: the strategies carried out by the company underscoring positive impacts

    • Environmental aspects: the strategies carried out by the company underscoring positive impacts

    • Economic aspects: upfront investment; sales volume, profits (as a percentage of revenues), future growth expectations based on company performance, average price of product/s that your company sells, and distribution or sales channel

  2. 2.

    There are also institutional initiatives such as, for instance, the Ethical Fashion Initiative. Within the International Trade Centre, the Poor Communities Trade Programme (PCTP) aims to reduce global poverty by involving micro-entrepreneurs in the developing world with international and regional trade. The Ethical Fashion Initiative is its operational arm.

    The Ethical Fashion Initiative is not a charity. It facilitates dignified work at a fair wage. It does so by connecting some of the world’s most marginalized artisans in Africa and Haiti with the fashion industry’s top talents for mutual benefit. It also works with upcoming designers in West Africa to promote local talent and increase export capacities of the region.

    Please visit: http://www.intracen.org/itc/projects/ethical-fashion/the-initiative/.

  3. 3.

    Some other initiatives were conceived at the very heart of indigenous communities, such as, for example, the Indigenous Runway Project founded by Tina Waru. There was a growing need to empower indigenous young people with confidence, motivation, and pride so that they can embrace their hidden beauty and talent and explore career pathways in various areas of fashion, modeling, fashion design, performing arts, production, hair and makeup and styling. To date, the Indigenous Runway Project has reached other global indigenous communities, such as New Zealand, Arizona, Canada, and Africa.

    Please visit: http://indigenousrunwayproject.com/.

  4. 4.

    This part of the chapter is based both on Sommers (2014) and the correspondence between Pachacuti and the organizers of the IE Award for Sustainability in the Premium and Luxury Sectors.

  5. 5.

    Following the collapse of the Rana Plaza Building in Bangladesh, and given the increasing mortality rate in such a catastrophe (April, 2014), many stories were published urging consumers to support ethical fashion as a way to improve working conditions throughout the entire supply chain. A few days later, Carry Sommers created the Fashion Revolution Day to commemorate the disaster anniversary and, since then, it has become a global movement that takes place all over the world, mobilizing the entire supply chain from cotton producers and textile workers to brands and consumers. Led by brands, retailers, activists, the press, and academics from both inside and outside the sector, good practices are celebrated, thus raising awareness about the “true” cost of fashion. In December 2013, Carry Sommers was granted the Outstanding Contribution to Sustainable Fashion Award at the House of Lords in recognition of her work both at Pachacuti and Fashion Revolution Day.

References

  • ARCA (2015) Los Diseños de Carmen Rion Rescatan el Folclor Mexicano. http://www.arca-lab.com/conoce-el-trabajo-de-la-disenadora-mexicana-carmen-rion/. Accessed 2 Nov 2015

  • Berry CJ (1994) The idea of luxury—a conceptual and historical investigation. Cambridge University Press, New York

    Google Scholar 

  • Caras de la Información (2015) Las verdaderas diseñadoras textiles mexicanas, son las artesanas indígenas de este país. http://carasdelainformacion.com/2015/02/10/carmen-rion-las-verdaderas-disenadoras-textiles-mexicanas-son-las-artesanas-indigenas-de-este-pais/. Accessed 2 Nov 2015

  • Cataldi C, Dickson M, Grover C (2010) Slow fashion: tailoring a strategic approach towards sustainability. Thesis submitted for completion of Master’s in strategic leadership towards sustainability, School of Engineering, Blekinge Institute of Technology, Karlskrona, Sweden

    Google Scholar 

  • Comunidad Textil (2011) Los bordados mexicanos, un hallazgo que sedujo a Hermès. http://www.comunidadtextil.com/news1/2011/03/los-bordados-mexicanos-un-hallazgo-que-sedujo-a-hermes/. Accessed 3 Feb 2014

  • Corcuera R, Dasso MC (2008) Introducción. In: Corcuera R, Dasso MC (eds) Tramas criollas. Ediciones CIAFIC, Buenos Aires, pp 9–22

    Google Scholar 

  • Cutuli G (2008) El textil en el contexto cultural. In: Corcuera R, Dasso MC (eds) Tramas criollas. Ediciones CIAFIC, Buenos Aires, pp 25–34

    Google Scholar 

  • Dixon SEA, Clifford A (2007) Ecopreneurship: a new approach to managing the triple bottom line. J Organ Change Manage 20(3):326–345

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Dresner S (2002) The principles of sustainability. Earthscan, London

    Google Scholar 

  • FIDA, PRODERNOA FLACSO (2005) El Sector de Artesanías en las Provincias del Noroeste Argentino. PRODERNOA, Buenos Aires

    Google Scholar 

  • Flechter K (2008) Sustainable fashion and textiles—design journeys. Earthscan, London

    Google Scholar 

  • Flechter K (2014) Sustainable fashion and textiles—design journeys, 2nd edn. Earthscan, London

    Google Scholar 

  • Gardetti MA (2005) Sustainable development, sustainability and corporate sustainability. In: Gardetti MA (ed) Texts in corporate sustainability—integrating social, environmental and economic considerations with short and long term. LA-BELL, Buenos Aires

    Google Scholar 

  • Gardetti MA (2011) Sustainable luxury in Latin America. Lecture delivered at the seminar sustainable luxury & design within the framework of the MBA of IE. Instituto de Empresa—Business School, Madrid

    Google Scholar 

  • Gardetti MA (2015) Loewe: luxury and sustainable management. In: Gardetti MA, Muthu SS (eds) Handbook of sustainable luxury textiles and fashion, vol 2. Springer, Singapore, pp 1–16

    Google Scholar 

  • Gardetti MA, Girón ME (2014) Sustainable luxury and social entrepreneurship: stories from the pioneers. Greenleaf Publishing, Sheffield

    Google Scholar 

  • Gardetti MA, Muthu SS (2015) Introduction. In: Gardetti MA, Muthu SS (eds) Handbook of sustainable luxury textiles and fashion, vol 1. Springer, Singapore, pp vii–xi

    Google Scholar 

  • Gardetti MA, Torres AL (2013a) Entrepreneurship, innovation and luxury: the Aïny Savoirs Des Peuple case. J Corp Citizsh Issue 52:55–75

    Google Scholar 

  • Gardetti MA, Torres AL (2013b) Introduction. J Corp Citizsh Issue 52:55–75

    Google Scholar 

  • Gardetti MA, Torres AL (2014) Introduction. In: Gardetti MA, Torres AL (eds) Sustainability luxury: managing social and environmental performance in iconic brands. Greenleaf Publishing, Sheffield, p 1

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Giacosa E (2014) Innovation in luxury fashion family business: processes and products innovation as a means of growth. Palgrave Macmillan, New York

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Girón ME (2012) Diccionario LID sobre Lujo y Responsabilidad. Editorial LID, Madrid

    Google Scholar 

  • Godart F, Seong S (2014) Is sustainable fashion possible? In: Gardetti MA, Torres AL (eds) Sustainability luxury: managing social and environmental performance in iconic brands. Greenleaf Publishing, Sheffield, pp 12–27

    Google Scholar 

  • Grimes KM, Milgram BL (2000) Introduction: facing the challenges of artisan production in the global market. In: Grimes KM, Milgram BL (eds) Artisans and cooperatives—developing alternate trade for the global economy. The University of Arizona Press, Tucson, pp 3–10

    Google Scholar 

  • GuadiaSustentable.com. Carmen Rion: Una Fusión Auténticamente Mexicana. http://www.vanguardiasustentable.com/carmen-rion-una-fusion-autenticamente-mexicana/. Accessed 2 Nov 2015

  • Guldager S (2015) Irreplaceable luxury garments. In: Gardetti MA, Muthu SS (eds) Handbook of sustainable luxury textiles and fashion, vol 2. Springer, Singapore, pp 73–97

    Google Scholar 

  • Hethorn J, Ulasewicz C (eds) (2008) Sustainable fashion, why now?—a conversation about issues, practices, and possibilities. Fairchild Books Inc., New York

    Google Scholar 

  • Hockerts K, Wüstenhagen R (2009) Emerging Davids versus greening Goliaths. CBS Center for Corporate Social Responsibility (Copenhagen Business School), Frederiksberg

    Google Scholar 

  • Hughes P (1996) Tissu et Travail de civilisation. Médianes, Rouen

    Google Scholar 

  • Kapferer JN (2012) The luxury strategy: break the rules of marketing to build luxury brands. Kogan Page, London

    Google Scholar 

  • Kleanthous A (2011) Simply the best is no longer simple—Raconteur on sustainable luxury, July 2011, 3. Source: http://theraconteur.co.uk/category/sustainability/sustainable-luxury/ Accessed Dec 2012

  • Koefoed O, Skov L (unknown year) Sustainability and fashion. In: Openwear: sustainability, openness and P2P production in the world of fashion. Research report of the EDUfashion project. http://openwear.org/data/files/Openwear%20e-book%20final.pdf. Accessed 9 May 2012

  • Low T (unknown year) Sustainable luxury: a case of strange bedfellows. University of Bedfordshire, Institute for Tourism Research Bedfordshire, Bedfordshire

    Google Scholar 

  • Marshall J, Coleman G, Reason P (2011) Leadership for sustainability—an action research approach. Greenleaf Publishing Limited, Sheffield

    Google Scholar 

  • Mortelmans D (2005) Sign values in processes of distinction: the concept of luxury. Semiotica 157–1/4(2005):497–520

    Google Scholar 

  • Pinkhasov M, Nair RJ (2014) Real luxury: how luxury brands can create value for the long term. Palgrave Macmillan, New York

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Popelka CA, Littrell MA (1991) Influence of tourism on handcraft evolution. Ann Tourism Res 18(1):392–413

    Google Scholar 

  • Rahman S, Yadlapalli A (2015) Sustainable practices in luxury apparel industry. In: Gardetti MA, Muthu SS (eds) Handbook of sustainable luxury textiles and fashion, vol 1. Springer, Singapore, pp 187–211

    Google Scholar 

  • Ranfgani S, Guercini S (2015) Beyond appearances: the hidden meanings of sustainable luxury. In: Gardetti MA, Muthu SS (eds) Handbook of sustainable luxury textiles and fashion, vol 2. Springer, Singapore, pp 1–16

    Google Scholar 

  • Romero G (2015) Camino a tenango. Thule Ediciones, Barcelona

    Google Scholar 

  • Root RA (2005) Introduction. In: Root RA (ed) The latin america fashion reader. Berg, New York, pp 1–13

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Scheibel S (unknown year) Ethical luxury—myth or trend? Essay. The London School of Economics and Political Science, London

    Google Scholar 

  • Sommers C (2014) Pachacuti, UK. In: Gardetti MA, Girón ME (eds) Sustainable luxury and social entrepreneurship: stories from the pioneers. Greenleaf Publishing, Sheffield, pp 71–87

    Google Scholar 

  • Swain MB (1993) Woman producers of ethnic arts. Ann Tourism Res 20(32):51

    Google Scholar 

  • Villiger A, Wüstenhagen R, Meyer A (2000) Jenseit der Öko-Nische. Birkhäuser, Basel

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Walker S (2006) Sustainable by design—explorations in theory and practice. Earthscan, London

    Google Scholar 

  • World Commission on Environment and Development—WCED (1987) Our common future. Oxford University Press, Oxford

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Center for Studies on Sustainable Luxury, Av. San Isidro 4166, PB “A”, C1429ADP, Buenos Aires, Republic of Argentina

    Miguel Angel Gardetti

  2. School of Business IT and Logistics, College of Business, RMIT University, Melbourne, Australia

    Shams Rahman

Authors
  1. Miguel Angel Gardetti
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. Shams Rahman
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Miguel Angel Gardetti .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

  1. Malmö University, Buenos Aires, Argentina

    Miguel Angel Gardetti

  2. Environmental Services Manager-Asia, SGS Hong Kong Limited, Hong Kong, Hong Kong

    Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2016 Springer Science+Business Media Singapore

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Gardetti, M.A., Rahman, S. (2016). Sustainable Luxury Fashion: A Vehicle for Salvaging and Revaluing Indigenous Culture. In: Gardetti, M., Muthu, S. (eds) Ethnic Fashion. Environmental Footprints and Eco-design of Products and Processes. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-0765-1_1

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics

Search

Navigation