Abstract
The preceding chapters may have conveyed the impression that we need refer only to unidirectional currents in order to give a physical account of sedimentary phenomena. We must emphasize that there is another important class of naturally occurring flows, characterized by rhythmical changes of speed combined with reversals of flow direction. These are the oscillatory currents associated with tides and with wind-generated surface waves. It is not immediately obvious that tides and wind waves belong in the same general class, but it turns out, as we shall see, that the tide can be analysed exactly as a type of wave. In addition to requiring some understanding of the origins of wind waves and tides, we shall in particular want to know what the currents due to them are like, what factors control these currents and the sediment transport they promote, and what bed-forms are adjusted to tidal and wave regimes. Some insight into these questions can be gained from simple experiments, from which it will become apparent that oscillatory flows can be much more complicated than unidirectional ones. But perhaps that is just part of their fascination.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Preview
Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.
Readings
Aigner, T. and H.-E. Reineck, 1982. Proximality trends in modern storm sands from the Helgoland Bight (North Sea) and their implications for basin analysis. Senckenbergiana Maritima 14, 183–215.
Allen, J. R. L. 1979. A model for the interpretation of wave ripple-marks using their wavelength, textural composition, and shape. J. Geol. Soc. Lond. 136, 673–82.
Allen, J. R. L. 1982a. Sedimentary structures, Vol. I. Amsterdam: Elsevier.
Allen, J. R. L. 1982b. Mud drapes in sand-wave deposits: a physical model with application to the Folkestone Beds (early Cretaceous, southeast England). Phil. Trans. R. Soc. Lond. A 306, 291–345.
Allen, P. A. 1981a. Wave-generated structures in the Devonian lacustrine sediments of SE Shetland, and ancient wave conditions. Sedimentology 28, 369–79.
Allen, P. A. 1981b. Some guidelines in reconstructing ancient sea conditions from wave ripple marks. Marine Geol. 43, M59–67.
Allen, P. A. and P. Homewood, 1984. Evolution and mechanics of a Miocene tidal sand wave. Sedimentology 31, 63–81.
Bagnold, R. A. 1946. Motion of waves in shallow water. Interaction between waves and sand bottoms. Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A 187, 1–16.
Barnett, T. P. and J. C. Wilkerson, 1967. On the generation of ocean wind waves as inferred from airborne radar measurements of fetch-limited spectra. J. Marine Res. 25, 292–321.
Boggs, S. 1974. Sand-wave fields in Taiwan Strait. Geology 2, 251–3.
Bouma, A. H., M. L. Rappeport, R. C. Orlando, and M. A. Hampton, 1980. Identification of bedforms in Lower Cook Inlet, Alaska. Sed. Geol. 26, 157–77.
Brenchley, P. J., G. Newall, and I. G. Stanistreet, 1979. A storm surge origin for sandstone beds in an epicontinental platform sequence, Ordovician, Norway. Sed. Geol. 22, 185–217.
Buller, A. T. and S. O. Johnson, 1982. Storm-influenced marine sandstones in the Ordovician Lower Havin Group, Nord-Trdndelag. Norsk Geol. Tidsskr. 62, 211–17.
Carter, D. J. T. 1982. Prediction of wave height and period for a constant wind velocity using the JONSWAP results. Ocean Engng 9, 17–33.
Collins, J. I. 1963. Inception of turbulence at the bed under periodic gravity waves. J. Geophys. Res. 68, 6007–14.
Conolly, J. R. 1969. Western Tasman Sea floor. N. Z. J. Geol. Geophys. 12, 310–42.
D’Anglejan, B. F. 1971. Submarine sand dunes in the St Lawrence Estuary. Can. J. Earth Sci. 8, 1480–6.
Darbyshire, M. and L. Draper, 1963. Forecasting wind-generated sea waves. Engineering 5 April, 482–4.
Darwin, G. H. 1884. On the formation of ripple-marks. Proc. R. Soc. Lond. 36, 18–43.
Defant, A. 1958. Ebb and flow. Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press.
Dingler, J. R. 1979. The threshold of grain motion under oscillatory flow in a laboratory wave channel. J. Sed. Petrol. 49, 287–94.
Doodson, A. T. and H. D. Warburg, 1941. Admiralty manual of tides. London: HMSO.
Dott, R. H. and J. Bourgeois, 1982. Hummocky stratification: significance of its variable bedding sequences. Bull. Geol. Soc. Am. 93, 663–80.
Field, M. E., H. C. Nelson, D. A. Cacchione and D. E. Drake 1981. Sand waves on an epicontinental shelf: northern Bering Sea. Marine Geol. 42, 233–58.
Frost, B. A. 1966. The relation between Beaufort Force, wind speed and wave height. Sci. Pap. Meteorol. Office, no. 25.
Greenwood, B. and R. G. D. Davidson-Arnott, 1979. Sedimentation and equilibrium in wave-formed bars: a review and case study. Can. J. Earth Sci. 16, 312–32.
Hamilton, D., J. H. Sommerville and P. N. Stanford, 1980. Bottom currents and shelf sediments, southwest of Britain. Sed. Geol. 26, 115–38.
Hine, A. C. 1977. Lily Bank, Bahamas: history of an active oolite sand shoal. J. Sed. Petrol. 47, 1554–81.
Inman, D. L. 1957. Wave generated ripples in nearshore sands. Tech. Mem. US Beach Erosion Board, no. 100
Jordan, G. F. 1962. Large submarine sand waves. Science 136, 839–48.
Kaneko, A. 1980. The wavelength of oscillation sand ripples. Rep. Res. Inst. Appl. Mech. Kyushu Univ. 28, 57–71.
Kaneko, A. and H. Honji, 1979. Double structure of steady streaming in the oscillatory viscous flow over a wavy wall. J. Fluid Mech. 93, 727–36.
Keller, G. H. and A. F. Richards, 1967. Sediments of the Malacca Strait, southeast Asia. J. Sed. Petrol. 37, 102–27.
Kinsman, B. 1965. Wind waves. Englewood Cliffs: Prentice- Hall.
Komar, P. D. 1974. Oscillatory ripple marks and the evaluation of ancient wave conditions and environments. J. Sed. Petrol. 44, 169–80.
Komar, P. D. and M. C. Miller, 1973. The threshold of sediment motion under oscillatory water waves. J. Sed. Petrol. 43, 1101–10.
Komar, P. D. and M. C. Miller, 1975. On the comparison between the threshold of sediment motion under waves and unidirectional currents with a discussion of the practical evaluation of the threshold. J. Sed. Petrol. 45, 362–7.
Langhorne, D. N. 1973. A sandwave field in the outer Thames Estuary. Marine Geol. 14, 129–43.
Langhorne, D. N. 1982. A study of the dynamics of a marine sandwave. Sedimentology 29, 571–94.
Lau, J. and B. Travis, 1973. Slowly varying Stokes waves and submarine longshore bars. J. Geophys. Res. 78, 4489–97. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1958. The mechanics of the boundary-layer near the bottom in a progressive wave, an appendix to the paper by Russell and Osorio, 1958. Proc. 6th Conf. Coastal Engng 184–93.
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1981. Oscillating flow over steep sand ripples. J. Fluid Mech. 107, 1–35.
Ludwick, J. C. 1972. Migration of tidal sand waves in Chesapeake Bay entrance. In Shelf sediment transport: processes and patterns. D. J. P. Swift, D. B. Duane and H. O. Pilkey (eds), 377–410. Stroudsburg: Dowden, Hutchinson and Ross.
McCave, I. N. 1971. Sand waves in the North Sea off the coast of Holland. Marine Geol. 10, 199–225.
McKee, E. D. 1938. Original structures in the Colorado River flood deposit of the Grand Canyon. J. Sed. Petrol. 8, 77–83.
Mann, R. G., D. J. P. Swift and R. Perry, 1981. Size classes of flow-transverse bedforms in a subtidal environment, Nantucket Shoals, North American Atlantic shelf. Geo-Marine Lett. 1, 39–43.
Miller, M. C. and P. D. Komar, 1980. Oscillation sand ripples generated by laboratory experiments. J. Sed. Petrol. 50, 173–82.
Moore, P. S. 1982. Ripple-mark analysis of a fine-grained epeiric-sea deposit (Cambrian, South Australia). J. Geol. Soc. Aust. 27, 71–81.
Morison, J. R. and R. C. Crooke, 1953. The mechanics of deep water, shallow water, and breaking waves. Tech. Mem. US Beach Erosion Board, no. 40.
Newton, R. S. 1968. Internal structures of wave-formed ripple marks in the nearshore zone. Sedimentology 11, 275–92.
Newton, R. S., E. Seibold and F. Werner, 1973. Facies distribution patterns on the Spanish Saharan continental shelf mapped with side-scan sonar. Ergebnisse ‘Meteor’ Forsch. C 16, 55–77.
Nio, S. D., C. Siegnethaler and C. S. Yang, 1983. Megaripple cross-bedding as a tool for the reconstruction of the palaeohydraulics in. a Holocene subtidal environment, S.W. Netherlands. Geol. Mijnb. 62, 499–510.
Phillips, O. M. 1977. The dynamics of the upper ocean. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Pingree, R. D. and D. K. Griffiths, 1979. Sand transport paths around the British Isles resulting from MZ and M4 tidal interactions. J. Marine Biol. Assoc. UK. 59, 497–513.
Rance, P. J. and N. F. Warren, 1969. The threshold of movement of coarse material in oscillatory flow. Proc. 11th Conf. Coastal Engng. Vol. 1. 487–91.
Reineck, H.-E. 1963. Sedimentgefüge im Bereich der südlichen Nordsee. Abh. Senck. Naturf. Ges., no. 505.
Reineck, H.-E. and F. Wunderlich, 1968. Zur Unterscheidung von asymmetrischen Oszillationsrippeln und Strömungsrippeln. Senckenbergiana Lethaea 49, 321–45.
Sundquist, B. 1982. Palaeobathymetric interpretation of wave ripple-marks in a Ludlovian grainstone of Gotland. Geol. För. Stockh. Förh. 104, 157–66.
Terwindt, J. H. J. 1981. Origin and sequences of sedimentary structures in inshore mesotidal deposits of the North Sea. Spec. Publn. Int. Assoc. Sed., no. 5, 4–26.
Thornton, E. B. and R. F. Krapohl, 1974. Water particle velocities measured under ocean waves. J. Geophys. Res. 79, 847–52.
Visser, M. J. 1980. Neap—spring cycles reflected in Holocene subtidal large-scale bedform deposits: a preliminary note. Geology 8, 543–6.
Wallet, A. and F. Ruellan, 1950. Trajectories of particles within a partial clapotis. Houille Blanche 5, 483–9.
Wiegel, R. L. 1964. Oceanographical engineering. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall.
Wright, M. E. and R. G. Walker, 1981. Cardium formation (U. Cretaceous) at Seebe, Alberta — storm-transported sandstones and conglomerates in shallow marine depositional environments below fair-weather base. Can. J. Earth Sci. 18, 795–809.
Yorath, C. J., B. D. Bornhold and R. E. Thomson, 1979. Oscillation ripples on the northeast Pacific continental shelf. Marine Geol. 31, 45–58.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 1985 J.R.L. Allen
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Allen, J.R.L. (1985). To and fro. In: Principles of Physical Sedimentology. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-010-9683-6_13
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-010-9683-6_13
Publisher Name: Springer, Dordrecht
Print ISBN: 978-94-010-9685-0
Online ISBN: 978-94-010-9683-6
eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive