Abstract
Advances in odor and perfume psychology have, paradoxically, been accompanied by a growing sense that we do not, as yet, know very much about the perceptions and the function of the sense of smell, about the psychological utility of perfumes or about the social importance of (cosmetic) fragrances. Hence, commonly used introductory phrases in articles and lectures about these subjects point to open questions or to limits to knowledge and caution against rash generalizations. Thus, Gschwind (1990) writes: ‘Few things have been scientifically proven, our knowledge is incomplete and no comprehensive theory is available.’ Klutky (1989) remarks that up till the present ‘but few psychological studies…have dealt explicitly with the sense of smell and its relation to other fields of research’, while Richardson and Zucco (1989) critically note that ‘psychological research…has paid very little attention to the olfactory modality.’
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Preview
Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.
References
Baron, R.A. (1983) Sweet smell of success? The impact of pleasant artificial scents on evaluations of job applicants. J. Appl. Psychol., 68, 709–713.
Baron, R.A. (1988) Perfume as a tactic of impression management in social and organizational settings, in Perfumery: The Psychology and Biology of Fragrance (eds. S. Van Toller and G.H. Dodd), Chapman & Hall, London, pp. 91–104.
Berglund, B., Berglund, U., Engen, T. and Ekman, G. (1973) Multidimensional analysis of twenty-one odors. Scand. J. Psychol., 14, 131–137.
Berlyne, D.E. (1971) Aesthetics and Psychohiology, Appleton Century Crofts, New York.
Bourdieu, P. (1984) Die feinen Unterschiede (3 Aufl.), Suhrkamp Verlag, Frankfurt.
Burdach, K.J. (1988) Geschmack und Geruch. Gustatorische, olfaktorische und trigeminale Wahrnehmung (1 Aufl.), Hans Huber, Bern/Stuttgart/Toronto.
Byrne-Quinn, J. (1988) Perfume, people, perceptions and products, in Perfumery: The Psychology and Biology of Fragrance (eds. S. Van Toller and G.H. Dodd), Chapman & Hall, London, pp. 205–216.
Cash, T.F. (1985) The impact of grooming style on the evaluation of women in management, in The Psychology of Fashion (ed. M.R. Solomon), D.C. Heath and Co., Lexington, pp. 343–355.
Cowley, J., Johnson, A. and Brooksbank, B. (1977) The effect of two odorous compounds on performance in an assessment-of-people test. Psychoneurology, 2, 159–182.
Davis, R.G. (1975) Acquisition of verbal associations to olfactory stimuli of varying familiarity and to abstract visual stimuli. J. Exper. Psychol. Human Learning and Motivation, 104, 134–142.
Davis, R.G. (1977) Acquisition and retention of verbal associations to olfactory and abstract visual stimuli of varying similarity. J. Exper. Psychol. Human Learning and Memory, 3, 37–51.
Davis, R.G. (1981) The role of nonolfactory context cues in odor identification. Percep. Psychophys., 30, 83–89.
Dollase, R. (1988) Von ganz natürlich bis schön verrückt — Zur Psychologie der Jugendmode, in Jugend und Mode. Kleidung als Selbstinszenierung (eds. D. Baacke, I. Volkmer, R. Dollase and U. Dresing), Leske und Budrich, Opladen, pp. 93–140.
Dollase, R., Rüsenberg, M. and Stollenwerk, H. (1986) Demoskopie im Konzertsaal, Schott, Mainz.
Engen, T. (1972) The effect of expectation on judgements of odor. Acta Psychologica, 36, 450–458.
Engen, T. (1974) Method and theory in the study of odor preference, in Human Responses to Environmental Odors (eds. J.W. Johnston, D.G. Moulton and A. Turk), Academic Press, New York, pp. 121–141.
Engen, T. (1982) The Perception of Odors, Academic Press, New York.
Engen, T. (1988) The acquisition of odour hedonics, in Perfumery: The Psychology and Biology of Fragrance (eds. S. Van Toller and G.H. Dodd), Chapman & Hall, London, pp. 79–90.
Engen, T. and Pfaffmann, C. (1960) Absolute judgements of odor quality. J. Exper. Psychol., 59, 214–219.
Engen, T. and Ross, B.M. (1973) Long-term memory of odors with and without verbal descriptions. J. Exper. Psychol., 100, 221–227.
Freytag, H. (1972) Die Bedeutung des Parfums innerhalb des Adaptionsmodells der Kosmetik. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 23, 811–822.
Graham, J.A. and Furnham, A. (1981) Sexual differences in attractiveness ratings of day/night cosmetic use. Cosmet. Technol., 3, 37–42.
Gschwind, J. (1990) Die Bedeutung von Gerüchen. Planung und Analyse, 17, 161–164.
Gumpert, M. (1931) Die gesamte Kosmetik (Entstellungsbekämpfung). Ein Grundriß für Ärzte und Studierende, G. Thieme, Leipzig.
Heckhausen, H. (1980) Motivation und Handeln. Lehrbuch der Motivationspsychologie, Springer, Berlin.
Heider, F. (1958, 1977) Psychologie der interpersonellen Beziehung, Klett, Stuttgart.
Henning, H. (1916) Der Geruch (1 Aufl.), Johann Ambrosius Barth, Leipzig.
Jellinek, P. (1951) Die psychologischen Grundlagen der Parfümerie. Untersuchungen über die Wirkungen von Gerüchen auf das Gefühlsleben. (1 Aufl.), Dr Alfred Hüthig, Heidelberg.
Jellinek, J.S. (1978) Shaving lotions and male colognes — a nonstatistical market analysis with suggestions on product development. Dragoco Report, 25, 3–16.
Jellinek, J.S. (1980) Fragrance character: the consumer’s viewpoint. Dragoco Report, 27, 19–24.
Jellinek, J.S. (1988a) The planet of feminine perfumes in the galaxy of odors or: ‘It smells like a perfume’. Dragoco Report, 35, 113–126.
Jellinek, J.S. (1988b) Perfumes and colors — a European consumer attitude study. Dragoco Report, 35, 14–29.
Jellinek, J.S. (1991) Odors and perfumes as a system of signs. Dragoco Report, 38, 10–21.
Jellinek, J.S., Olias du Bosque, B. and Gschwind, J. (1988) Expert classification and consumer acceptance of perfumes (Proceedings of the 15th FSCC International Congress). 4, 91–99.
Jellinek, J.S., Olias du Bosque, B., Gschwind, J., Schubert, B. and Scharf, A. (1992) The scent and the marketing mix. Dragoco Report, 39, 103–121.
King, J.R. (1988) Anxiety reduction using fragrances, in Perfumery: The Psychology and Biology of Fragrance (eds. S. Van Toller and G.H. Dodd), Chapman & Hall, London, pp. 147–166.
Kirchler, E. (1989) Kaufentscheidungen im privaten Haushalt, Hogrefe, Göttingen.
Kirk-Smith, M.D. and Booth, D.A. (1980) Effect of androstenone on choice of location in others’ presence, in Olfaction and Taste VII (ed. H. Van der Starre), IRL Press, London, pp. 397–400.
Kirk-Smith, M., Booth, D., Carroll, D. and Davies, P. (1978) Human social attitudes affected by androstenol. Res. Comm. Psychol. Psychiat. Behav., 3, 379–384.
Kirk-Smith, M.D., Van Toller, C. and Dodd, G.H. (1983) Unconscious odour conditioning in human subjects. Biol. Psychol., 17, 221–231.
Klutky, N. (1989) Differentiellpsychologische Aspekte des Geruchsinns, Inauguraldissertation zur Erlangung des Grades eines Doktors der Philosophic, Johann Wolfgang Goethe/Universität Frankfurt am Main.
Klutky, N. (1990) Zur psychologischen Klassifikation und Bedeutung von Gerüchen. Zeitschrift für experimentelle und angewandte Psychologie, 37, 608–622.
Laucken, U. (1973) Naive Verhaltenstheorie, Klett, Stuttgart.
Lawless, H.T. and Cain, W.S. (1975) Recognition memory for odors. Chem. Sens. Flav., 1, 331–337.
Lawless, H.T. and Engen, T. (1977) Associations of odors: interference, mnemonics and verbal labeling. J. Exper. Psychol. Human Learning and Memory, 3, 52–59.
Le Norcy, J. (1988) Selling perfume: a technique or an art? in Perfumery: The Psychology and Biology of Fragrance (eds. S. Van Toller and G.H. Dodd), Chapman & Hall, London, pp. 217–226.
Lipsitt, L.P., Engen, T., Bloom, S.J. and Jennings, V. (1975) Olfactory development in children to five years of age, Brown University (noted in Engen 1982), unpublished.
Mensing, J. and Beck, C. (1988) The psychology of fragrance selection, in Perfumery: The Psychology and Biology of Fragrance (eds. S. Van Toller and G.H. Dodd), Chapman & Hall, London, pp. 185–204.
Moncrieff, R.W. (1965) Changes in olfactory preferences with age. Rev. Laryng. Bordeaux, 86, 895–904.
Moncrieff, R.W. (1970) Odours, William Heinemann Medical Books, London.
Moskowitz, H.R. (1980) What do women and men think of men’s fragrances? Cosmet. Technol., 2, 46–49.
Nesbitt, P.D. and Steven, G. (1974) Personal space and stimulus intensity at a Southern California amusement park. Sociometry, 37, 105–115.
Plattig, K.H., Kobal, G. and Thumfart, W. (1980) Die chemischen Sinne Geruch und Geschmack im Laufe des Lebens — Veränderungen der Geruchs- und Geschmackswahrnehmung. Zeitschrift für Gerontologie, 13, 149–157.
Richardson, J.T.E. and Zucco, G.M. (1989) Cognition and olfaction: a review. Psychol. Bull., 105, 352–360.
Schab, F.R. (1991) Odor memory: taking stock. Psychol. Bull., 109, 242–251.
Schachtel, E.G. (1959) Metamorphosis of the Development of Affect, Perception, Attention and Memory, Basic Books, New York.
Schaupp, H. (1982) Psychologische Aspekte der Kosmetikanwendung, Inauguraldissertation zur Erlangung des Doktorgrades an der Naturwissenschaftlichen Fakultät, Karl-Franzens-Universität Graz.
Schleidt, M. and Genzel, C. (1990) The significance of mother’s perfume for infants in the first weeks of their life. Ethol. and Sociobiol., 11, 145–154.
Smets, G.J.F. and Overbeeke, C.J. (1989) Scent and sound of vision: expressing scent or sound as visual forms. Perceptual and Motor Skills, 69, 227–233.
Stein, M., Ottenberg, P. and Roulet, N. (1958) A study of the development of olfactory preferences. Am. Med. Assoc. Arch. Neurol. Psych., 80, 264–266.
Sumner, D. (1962) On testing the sense of smell, Lancet, ii, 895–897.
Thomae, H. (1988) Motivation, in Handwörterbuch Psychologie (eds. R. Asanger and G. Wenninger), Psychologie Verlags Union, Munich/Weinheim, pp. 463–467.
Wicklund, R.A. and Gollwitzer, P.M. (1982) Symbolic Self-Completion, Erlbaum, Hillsdale.
Wippich, W. (1990) Erinnerungen an Gerüche: Benennungsmaße und autobiographische Erinnerungen zeigen Geruchsnachwirkungen an. Zeitschrift für experimented und angewandte Psychologie, 37, 679–695.
Woskow, M.H. (1968) Multidimensional scaling of odors, in Theories of Odors and Odor Measurement (ed. N. Tanyolac), Robert College Research Center, Istanbul, pp. 147–191.
Editor information
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 1997 Chapman & Hall
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Dollase, R. (1997). The motivation for perfume choice. In: Jellinek, J.S. (eds) The Psychological Basis of Perfumery. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-1567-1_24
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-1567-1_24
Publisher Name: Springer, Dordrecht
Print ISBN: 978-94-010-7200-7
Online ISBN: 978-94-009-1567-1
eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive