Skip to main content

Breaking Waves

  • Chapter
Water Wave Kinematics

Part of the book series: NATO ASI Series ((NSSE,volume 178))

Abstract

A new non-linear 3-dimensional Lagrangian theory is presented for prediction of kinematics in the crests of gravity sea waves. The theory is compared with measurements made in laboratory experiments, and may be used to calculate wave loads and slamming caused by freak waves. 10 freak waves have been measured on the Norwegian Continental Shelf. In 2 cases, two freak waves occurred in rapid succession within the same wave group. 9 of the 10 freak waves occurred without any influence from the sea bottom.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

eBook
USD 16.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 54.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Preview

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

References

  • Duncan, J.H., Wallendorf, L.A., Johnson, B., 1987: “An Experimental Investigation of the Kinematics of Breaking Waves”. Report No. EW-7-87. United States Naval Academy. Annapolis, Maryland, USA.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gunther, F.C., Bergmann, J., 1986: “Gaussian Wave Packets- A new Approach to Seakeeping Tests of Ocean Structures”. Applied Ocean Research. Vol. 8, No. 4.

    Google Scholar 

  • ISSC, 1988: Proceedings Int. Ships and Offshore Structures Congress, Vol. 1 p 19, Copenhagen, Denmark, Aug. 1988.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kjeldsen, S.P., 1982: “2- and 3-dimensional Deterministic Freak Waves”. Proc. 18th Int. Conference on Coastal Engineering, Cape Town, South Africa.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kjeldsen, S.P., 1983: “Determination of Severe Wave Conditions for Ocean Systems in a 3-dimensional Irregular Seaway”. Proc. 8th Congress of the Pan-American Institute of Naval Engineering, Sept. 83, Washington D.C., USA.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kjeldsen, S.P., 1984 a: “Dangerous Wave Groups”. Norwegian Maritime Research Vol. 12. No. 2. pp 4–16.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kjeldsen, S.P., 1984 b: “The Experimental Verification of Numerical Models of Plunging Breakers”. Proc. 19th Int. Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, Texas, USA.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kjeldsen, S.P., 1989: “The Practical Value of Directional Ocean Wave Spectra”. Proc. Symposium on Measuring, Modeling, Predicting and Applying Directional Ocean Wave Spectra. Applied Physics Laboratory. The Johns Hopkins University, Maryland, USA, April 1989.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kjeldsen, S.P. & Myrhaug, D., 1978: “Kinematics and Dynamics of Breaking Waves”. Marintek Report No. STF60 A 78100, Trondheim, Norway.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kjeldsen, S.P., Myrhaug, D., 1979: “Breaking waves in deep waters and resulting wave forces”. Proc. 11th Offshore Technology Conference. Houston, Texas, USA.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kjeldsen, S.P., T0rum, A., Dean, R.G., 1986: “Wave Forces on Vertical Piles caused by 2- and 3-dimensional Breaking Waves”. Proc. 20th Int. Conference on Coastal Engineering, Taipei, Taiwan.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kjeldsen, S.P., Vinje, T., Myrhaug D., Brevig, P., 1980: “Kinematics of deep water breaking waves”. Proc. 12th Offshore Technology Conference. Houston, Texas, USA.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kjeldsen, S.P., Akre, A., 1985: “Wave Forces on Vertical Piles near the free surface caused by 2-dimensional and 3-dimensional Breaking Waves”. MARINTEK Report No. PR53 530012.04 01 85, Trondheim, Norway.

    Google Scholar 

  • Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1957: “The statistical analysis of a random, moving surface”. Phil. Trans. Roy. Soc. Vol. A-249, pp 321–387.

    Google Scholar 

  • Longuet-Higgins, M.S. 1978: “The instabilities of gravity waves of finite amplitude in deep water. I. Superharmonics, II. Subharmonics”. Proc. Roy. Soc., Ser. A 360, pp. 471–505.

    Google Scholar 

  • Schwartz, M., Bennet, W.R., Stein, S., 1966: “Communication Systems and Techniques”, McGraw-Hill, New York.

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 1990 Kluwer Academic Publisher

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Kjeldsen, S.P. (1990). Breaking Waves. In: Tørum, A., Gudmestad, O.T. (eds) Water Wave Kinematics. NATO ASI Series, vol 178. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_29

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_29

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Dordrecht

  • Print ISBN: 978-94-010-6725-6

  • Online ISBN: 978-94-009-0531-3

  • eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive

Publish with us

Policies and ethics