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Mathematical Modelling of Short Waves in Surf Zone

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Water Wave Kinematics

Part of the book series: NATO ASI Series ((NSSE,volume 178))

Abstract

A numerical model for the propagation of breaking waves is developed. Using an apropriate F.D. scheme in the solution of BOUSSINESQ type of equations, a third-order accuracy is obtained, without the need of including the additional SERRE terms.

By providing the above equations with a suitable dissipative mechanism by introducing a dispersion term (using the Boussinesq eddy viscosity concept), we are able to simulate breaking waves. In this way it is possible to compute both the dissipation of the wave height and set-up, and in the 2-D case, the longshore currents. In the above cases the radiation stresses are genarated automatically.

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Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Division of Hydraulics and Environmental Engineering, Department of Civil Engineering, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, 54006, Greece

    Th. Karambas & Chr. Koutitas

Authors
  1. Th. Karambas
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  2. Chr. Koutitas
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Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

  1. Norwegian Hydrotechnical Laboratory, Norwegian Institute of Technology, Trondheim, Norway

    A. Tørum

  2. Statoil, Stavanger, Norway

    O. T. Gudmestad

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© 1990 Kluwer Academic Publisher

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Karambas, T., Koutitas, C. (1990). Mathematical Modelling of Short Waves in Surf Zone. In: Tørum, A., Gudmestad, O.T. (eds) Water Wave Kinematics. NATO ASI Series, vol 178. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_22

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_22

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Dordrecht

  • Print ISBN: 978-94-010-6725-6

  • Online ISBN: 978-94-009-0531-3

  • eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive

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