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Waves and Oscillations in the Ocean and in Lakes

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Continuum Mechanics in Environmental Sciences and Geophysics

Part of the book series: International Centre for Mechanical Sciences ((CISM,volume 337))

Abstract

We study linear wave motions in lakes and ocean bays whose characteristic length scales extend over most parts or all of the water masses. We present the governing equations and motivate, by means of a scale analysis, the various simplified versions of model equations that are in use in linearized lake dynamics. This scale analysis permits rational deduction of the reduced equations — the most important of these are the shallow water equations — and delimits their applicability.

This paper is an extended version of a 1/2-semester course on “Physical Limnology and Oceanography” which I hold at ETH Zürich to Environmental Physicists in their 6th semester of education. As far as referencing current literature is concerned I am neither exhaustive nor complete and only refer to literature that is directly related to the material presented. My focus is to explain phenomena and to verify them on field observations; it is then only natural that I draw from my own work. I apologize to all those whose important contributions are not mentioned and would have to be included in a more embracing text. For a list with more than 300 relevant references, the reader may consult e.g. Hutter (1984b, 1987). Obviously also, most aspects, including a great many others are for instance treated in Defant (1961), Greenspan (1968), Krauss (1966), LeBlond and Mysak (1980), Lighthill (1978), Mortimer (1974), Phillips (1966), Turner (1973), Witham (1974) and Yih (1965).

An earlier version of the text was prepared for a graduate course held in August 1991 at the Institute of Applied Mechanics, National Taiwan University, Taipei. The author is grateful to Prof. Y. H. Pao for the opportunity to draft these lecture notes.

This article is dedicated to C. H. Mortimer, from whom I have learned much of what is reported here on limnology of lakes in general and the Swiss Lakes in particular.

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  1. Institut für Mechanik, Technische Hochschule Darmstadt, Hochschulstraße 1, D - 6100, Darmstadt, Germany

    Kolumban Hutter

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Hutter, K. (1993). Waves and Oscillations in the Ocean and in Lakes. In: Hutter, K. (eds) Continuum Mechanics in Environmental Sciences and Geophysics. International Centre for Mechanical Sciences, vol 337. Springer, Vienna. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-7091-2600-4_2

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