Surf Zone Breakers with Current
A two-dimensional model for waves and steady current in the surf zone is developed. It is based on a depth integrated and time averaged version of the equations for the conservation of mass, momentum, and wave energy. A numerical solution gives the variation of wave height, set-up, and steady current in the surf zone, taking into account the mass flux in the waves and a possible net volume flux. It is assumed that a bottom boundary layer exists with an eddy viscosity v tb much smaller than the eddy viscosity v t generated over the rest of the water depth by the breaking.
The paper concentrates on the determination of some of the basic parameters in the model and on the comparison between the model results and experiments.
Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.
- 1.Hansen, J. Ruhr & I.A. Svendsen. A theoretical of undertow, Proc. 19th Int. Cont. Coastal Eng 2246–2262.Google Scholar
- 2.Hansen, J. & Buhr I. A. Svendsen. Experimental and current motion over a longshore bar, Proc. Eng., Taipei 1986.Google Scholar
- 3.Hansen, J. Buhr & I.A. Svendsen. The cross shore motion over a barred beach profile, Proc. 2nd Int. Conf. Coast. and Fort Eng. Developing Countries, Beijing 1987.Google Scholar
- 4.Jonsson, I.G. Wave boundary layer and friction factors, Proc. 10th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., Tbkyo 1966, ch. 10, 127–148.Google Scholar
- 5.Nadaoka, K.& T. Knndoh. Laboratory measurements of velocity field structure in the surf zone by LDV, Coastal Eng. Jap. 25 (1982), 125–146.Google Scholar
- 6.Ckayasu, A., T. Shibayama & N. Mimura. Velocity field under plunging waves, Proc. 20th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., Taipei 1986.Google Scholar
- 8.Stive, M.J.F. Two dimensional breaking of waves on a beach, Ièport M 1585, part I…IV, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory 1983.Google Scholar
- 11.Svendsen, I.A. Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone, Coastal Eng. 8 (1984) 4, 303–329.Google Scholar
- 13.Svendsen, I.A. &J. Buhr Hansen. The interaction of waves and currents over a longshore bar. Proc. 20th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., Taipei 1986.Google Scholar
- 14.Svendsen, I.A.,& H.A. Schäffer J. Buhr Hansen. The interaction between the undertow and the bottom boundary layer flow on a beach. Tb appear in J. Ceophys. Iles. 1987.Google Scholar
- 15.Svendsen, I.A., J. Buhr Hansen & H.A. Schäffer. Analysis of cross-shore circulation on a beach. Proc. ASCE Conf. on Coastal Hydrodynamics, Newark, Delaware 1987.Google Scholar