Abstract
A two-dimensional model for waves and steady current in the surf zone is developed. It is based on a depth integrated and time averaged version of the equations for the conservation of mass, momentum, and wave energy. A numerical solution gives the variation of wave height, set-up, and steady current in the surf zone, taking into account the mass flux in the waves and a possible net volume flux. It is assumed that a bottom boundary layer exists with an eddy viscosity v tb much smaller than the eddy viscosity v t generated over the rest of the water depth by the breaking.
The paper concentrates on the determination of some of the basic parameters in the model and on the comparison between the model results and experiments.
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© 1988 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg
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Hansen, J.B., Svendsen, I.A. (1988). Surf Zone Breakers with Current. In: Horikawa, K., Maruo, H. (eds) Nonlinear Water Waves. International Union of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-83331-1_19
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-83331-1_19
Publisher Name: Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg
Print ISBN: 978-3-642-83333-5
Online ISBN: 978-3-642-83331-1
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