Surf Zone Breakers with Current

  • J. Buhr Hansen
  • Ib A. Svendsen
Conference paper
Part of the International Union of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics book series (IUTAM)


A two-dimensional model for waves and steady current in the surf zone is developed. It is based on a depth integrated and time averaged version of the equations for the conservation of mass, momentum, and wave energy. A numerical solution gives the variation of wave height, set-up, and steady current in the surf zone, taking into account the mass flux in the waves and a possible net volume flux. It is assumed that a bottom boundary layer exists with an eddy viscosity v tb much smaller than the eddy viscosity v t generated over the rest of the water depth by the breaking.

The paper concentrates on the determination of some of the basic parameters in the model and on the comparison between the model results and experiments.


Wave Height Mass Flux Eddy Viscosity Surf Zone Bottom Boundary Layer 
These keywords were added by machine and not by the authors. This process is experimental and the keywords may be updated as the learning algorithm improves.


Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.


  1. 1.
    Hansen, J. Ruhr & I.A. Svendsen. A theoretical of undertow, Proc. 19th Int. Cont. Coastal Eng 2246–2262.Google Scholar
  2. 2.
    Hansen, J. & Buhr I. A. Svendsen. Experimental and current motion over a longshore bar, Proc. Eng., Taipei 1986.Google Scholar
  3. 3.
    Hansen, J. Buhr & I.A. Svendsen. The cross shore motion over a barred beach profile, Proc. 2nd Int. Conf. Coast. and Fort Eng. Developing Countries, Beijing 1987.Google Scholar
  4. 4.
    Jonsson, I.G. Wave boundary layer and friction factors, Proc. 10th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., Tbkyo 1966, ch. 10, 127–148.Google Scholar
  5. 5.
    Nadaoka, K.& T. Knndoh. Laboratory measurements of velocity field structure in the surf zone by LDV, Coastal Eng. Jap. 25 (1982), 125–146.Google Scholar
  6. 6.
    Ckayasu, A., T. Shibayama & N. Mimura. Velocity field under plunging waves, Proc. 20th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., Taipei 1986.Google Scholar
  7. 7.
    Phillips, O.M. The dynamics of the upper ocean, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge 1977.MATHGoogle Scholar
  8. 8.
    Stive, M.J.F. Two dimensional breaking of waves on a beach, Ièport M 1585, part I…IV, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory 1983.Google Scholar
  9. 9.
    Stive, M.J.F. & H.G. Wind. A study of radiation stress and set-up in the nearshore region, Coastal Eng. 6 (1982), 1–25.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  10. 10.
    Stive, M.J.F. & H.G. Wind. Cross-shore mean flow in the surf zone, Coastal Eng. 10 (1986), 325–340.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  11. 11.
    Svendsen, I.A. Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone, Coastal Eng. 8 (1984) 4, 303–329.Google Scholar
  12. 12.
    Svendsen, I.A. Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone. Coastal Fag. 8 (1984), 4, 347–365.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  13. 13.
    Svendsen, I.A. &J. Buhr Hansen. The interaction of waves and currents over a longshore bar. Proc. 20th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., Taipei 1986.Google Scholar
  14. 14.
    Svendsen, I.A.,& H.A. Schäffer J. Buhr Hansen. The interaction between the undertow and the bottom boundary layer flow on a beach. Tb appear in J. Ceophys. Iles. 1987.Google Scholar
  15. 15.
    Svendsen, I.A., J. Buhr Hansen & H.A. Schäffer. Analysis of cross-shore circulation on a beach. Proc. ASCE Conf. on Coastal Hydrodynamics, Newark, Delaware 1987.Google Scholar

Copyright information

© Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 1988

Authors and Affiliations

  • J. Buhr Hansen
    • 1
  • Ib A. Svendsen
    • 2
  1. 1.Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic EngineeringTechnical UniversityDenmark
  2. 2.Department of Civil EngineeringUniversity of DelawareUSA

Personalised recommendations