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Nonlinear Theory of Sea Wave Run-Up

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Nonlinear Waves

Part of the book series: Research Reports in Physics ((RESREPORTS))

Abstract

Analytical results of the sea wave run-up on a beach are reviewed. The case of flooding by waves without breaking, which corresponds to the so-called surging breaker, is analysed. An adequate model for this problem is derived from the nonlinear theory of shallow water. Appropriate equations under the condition of the constant slope angle are solved employing a hodograph transformation. The linear and nonlinear problems in this case are related: the run-up maximum and the flow velocity are defined by using the linear theory, while nonlinearity affects only the shape of fluctuations. Both theoretical and empirical conditions for the breaking of the sea waves are discussed. The dispersive effects on the monochromatic wave run-up are briefly described.

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Institute of Applied Physics, USSR Academy of Sciences, 603600, Gorky, USSR

    E. N. Pelinovsky

Authors
  1. E. N. Pelinovsky
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Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

  1. Institute of Applied Physics, ul. Ulyanova 46, SU-603600, Gorky, USSR

    Andrei V. Gaponov-Grekhov (Academician) & Mikhail I. Rabinovich (Academician) & 

  2. Institute of Cybernetics, Estonian SSR Academy of Sciences, Akadeemia tee 21, SU-200108, Tallinn, USSR

    Jüri Engelbrecht

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© 1989 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg

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Pelinovsky, E.N. (1989). Nonlinear Theory of Sea Wave Run-Up. In: Gaponov-Grekhov, A.V., Rabinovich, M.I., Engelbrecht, J. (eds) Nonlinear Waves. Research Reports in Physics. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-74366-5_12

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-74366-5_12

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-540-50654-6

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-642-74366-5

  • eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive

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