The mechanics of the surf zone

  • M. S. Longuet-Higgins
Part of the IUTAM Symposia book series (IUTAM)

Abstract

In recent years many previously baffling phenomena to do with the action of waves on sloping beaches have been sufficiently understood physically that they are now amenable to mathematical analysis. This in turn has suggested new problems, which it will be the purpose of this paper to point out.

Keywords

Permeability Depression Beach Peri Refraction 

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Copyright information

© Springer-Verlag, Berlin · Heidelberg 1973

Authors and Affiliations

  • M. S. Longuet-Higgins
    • 1
    • 2
  1. 1.CambridgeUK
  2. 2.Wormley, GodalmingUK

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