Skip to main content

Fast Fashion: Achieving Global Quick Response (GQR) in the Internationally Dispersed Clothing Industry

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Innovative Quick Response Programs in Logistics and Supply Chain Management

Abstract

The clothing industry is one of the most mobile industries in the world. Global supply poses significant challenges in ensuring the right volume and mix of products within retail stores. Here we define a new concept – Global quick response (GQR) – which strives to combine the cost and scale efficiencies arising from sourcing globally with quick and accurate response to market requirements. GQR is based on lead time compression, effective information management, dynamic planning, and strong logistics. We examine GQR in the context of the new garment development process, the initial volume order process, and the repeat order process, and discuss its requirements with respect to market intelligence, rapid new product introduction, network structure, network planning, and network capability. The importance of staged planning postponement is noted, where commitments to precise mix requirements are delayed as late as possible in the supply process. Different operational approaches for achieving GQR are possible, from fully integrated, centrally controlled systems to response based on contractual relationships. Two contrasting examples from practice – Zara and Primark – are noted. GQR offers significant opportunities for further research both in the clothing sector and more widely.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 189.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 249.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 249.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  • Abdalla HS (1999) Concurrent engineering for global manufacturing. Int J Prod Econ 60–61: 251–260

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Abernathy FH, Volpe A, Weil D (2006) The future of the apparel and textile industries: prospects and choices for public and private actors. Environ Plann A 38:2207–2232

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Al-Zubaidi H, Tyler D (2004) A simulation model of quick response replenishment of seasonal clothing. Int J Retail Distrib Manag 32(6):320–327

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Audet D (2007) Smooth as silk? A first look at the post MFA textiles and clothing landscape. J Int Econ Law 10(2):267–284

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Barclay I, Dann Z (2000) Management and organisational factors in new product development (NPD) success. Concurrent Engineering 8(2):115–132

    Google Scholar 

  • Barnes L, Lea-Greenwood G (2006) Fast fashioning the SC: shaping the research agenda. Intern J Fashion Market Manag 10(3):259–271

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Belfast Telegraph (2007) Cheap chic? (By Chrissie Russell. www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk.) Accessed 7 Nov 2007

  • Birtwistle G, Fiorito SS, Moore CM (2006) Supplier perceptions of quick response systems. J Enterprise Inform Syst 19(3):334–345

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bruce M, Daly L (2006) Buyer behaviour for fast fashion. J Fashion Market Manag 10(3):329–344

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bruce M, Daly L, Towers N (2004) Lean or agile: A solution for supply chain management in the textiles and clothing industry?. Int J Oper Prod Manag 24(2):151–170

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Catalan M, Kotzab H (2003) Assessing the responsiveness in the danish mobile phone supply chain. Int J Phys Distrib Logist Manag 33(8):668–685

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • CBARSL-Central Bank Annual Report Sri Lanka (2005–2007)

    Google Scholar 

  • Christopher M, Lowson R, Peck H (2004) Creating agile supply chains in the fashion industry. Int J Retail Distrib Manag 32(8):367–76

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cooper MC, Lambert DM, Pagh JD (1997) Supply chain management more than a new name for logistics. Int J Logist Manag 8(1):1–14

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • CRPM report in Macedonia (2005) World trends in clothing manufacturing. Occasional Paper No 9, Center for Research and Policy Making, 31 Nov 2005. www.crpm.org.mk. Accessed 18 Oct 2008

  • Doyle SA, Christopher MM, Morgan L (2006) Supplier management in fast moving fashion retailing. J Fashion Market Manag 10(3):272–281

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • EMCC – European Monitoring Centre on Change (2008) Trends and drivers of change in the european textiles and clothing sector: Mapping report. European Foundation for the Improvement of Living and Working Conditions. www.eurofound.europa.eu/pubdocs/2008/15/en/1/ef0815en.pdf. Accessed 27 Oct 2008

  • Er M, MacCarthy BL (2006) Managing product variety in multinational corporation supply chains: A simulation study. J Manuf Technol Manag 17(8):1117–1138

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ferdows K, Lewis MA, Machuca JAD (2004) Rapid-Fire fulfillment. Harv Bus Rev 82(11):104–110

    Google Scholar 

  • Fernie J (1994) Quick response: An international perspective. Int J Phys Distrib Logist Manag 22(6):38–46

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Financial Times (2009) Primark sparkle brightens resilient associate British foods. (By Maggie Urry) 16 Jan 2009

    Google Scholar 

  • Fisher M, Raman A (1996) Reducing the cost of demand uncertainty through accurate response to early sales. Oper Res 44(1):87–99

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Fisher ML (1997) What is the right supply chain for your product? Harv Bus Rev 75(2):105–115

    Google Scholar 

  • Fisher ML, Hammond JH, Obermeyer WR, Raman A (1994) Making supply meet demand in an uncertain world. Harv Bus Rev 83–93

    Google Scholar 

  • Forza C, Vinelli A (1996) An analytical scheme for the change of the apparel design process towards quick response. Int J Clothing Sci Technol 8(4):28–43

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Forza C, Vinelli A (1997) Quick response in the textile-apparel industry and the support of information technologies. Integrated Manuf Syst 8(3):125–136

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Forza C, Vinelli A (2000) Time compression in production and distribution with the textile-apparel chain. Integrated Manuf Syst 11(2):138–146

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Forza C, Romano P, Vinelli A (2000). Information technology for managing the textile apparel chain: current use, shortcomings and development directions. Int J Logist 3(3):227–243

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Gallaugher JM (2008) Zara case: Fast fashion from savvy systems. www.gallaugher.com. Visited on 8 Feb 2009

  • Gereffi G (1999) International trade and industrial upgrading in the apparel commodity chain. J Int Econ 48(1):37–70

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Gunasekaran A, Laib K, Cheng TCE (2008) Responsive supply chain: A competitive strategy in a networked economy. Int J Manag Sci 36:549–564

    Google Scholar 

  • Handfield RB, Krause DR, Scannell TV, Monczka RM (2000) Avoid the pitfalls in supplier development. Sloan Manag Rev 37–49

    Google Scholar 

  • Hayes SG, Jones N (2006) Fast fashion a financial snapshot. J Fashion Market Manag 10(3): 282–300

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Holweg M (2005) The three dimensions of responsiveness. Int J Oper Prod Manag 25(7):603–622

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hunter NA (1990) Quick reponse in apparel manufacturing. The Textile Institute, UK

    Google Scholar 

  • Hunter NA, King RE, Nuttle HLM (1992) An apparel – Supply system for quick response retailing. J Textil Inst 83(3):462–471

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hunter A, King R, Lowson RH (2002) The textile/clothing pipeline and quick response management. The Textile Institute, UK

    Google Scholar 

  • Iwanow H, McEachern MG, Jeffrey A (2005) The influence of ethical trading policies on consumer apparel purchase decisions: A focus on the Gap Inc. Int J Retail Distrib Manag 33(5):371–387

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Joergens C (2006) Ethical fashion: myth or future trend?. J Fashion Market Manag 10(3):360–371

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Koufteros X, Vonderembse M, Doll W (2001) Concurrent engineering and its consequences. J Oper Manag 19(1):97–115

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kritchanchi D, MacCarthy BL (1999) Responsiveness of the order fulfilment process. Int J Oper Prod Manag 19(8):821–833

    Google Scholar 

  • Kumar N, Linguri S (2006) Fashion sense. Bus Strat Rev 17(2):80–84

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Lambert MD, Cooper MC (2000) Issues in supply chain management. Ind Market Manag 29:65–83

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Lowson B, King R, Hunter A (1999) Quick response: managing the supply chain to meet consumer demand. Wiley, NY

    Google Scholar 

  • Lummus RR, Duclos LK, Vokurka RJ (2003) Supply chain flexibility: building a new model. Global J Flex Syst Manag 4(4):1–13

    Google Scholar 

  • Martin MF (2007) US clothing and textile trade with china and the world: trends since the end of quotas. CRS Report for Congress, A Report Prepared for Members and Committees of Congress on July 10 2007. Order Code RL34106. www.fas.org/sgp/crs/row/RL34106.pdf. Accessed 18 Oct 2008

  • Nordas HK (2004) The global textile and clothing industry post the agreement on textiles and clothing. Discussion Paper No 5, World Trade Organization Geneva, Switzerland. www.trade.wtosh.com/english/res_e/booksp_e/discussion_papers5_e.pdf. Accessed 21 Oct 2008

  • O’Donoghue B (2008) Primark director. www.primark.co.uk

  • Oxborrow L (2000) Changing practices in the uk apparel supply chain: results of an industry survey. Research Project Paper for Harvard Business Center for Textile and Apparel Research. www.hctar.org/pdfs/GS04.pdf. Accessed 17 Oct 2008

  • Oxborrow L (2006) Customer responsiveness: curse or salvation? Issues facing the UK’s apparel labour market. Accessed via Google 11 Nov 2008

    Google Scholar 

  • Perry M, Sohal AS (2001) Effective quick response practices in a supply chain partnership an australian case study. Int J Oper Prod Manag 21(5–6):840–854

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pieter D, van Donk, Taco van der Vaart (2007) Responsiveness through buyer-focused cells: exploring a new supply strategy. Int J Oper Prod Manag 27(12):1362–1379

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pretious M, Love M (2006) Sourcing ethics and the global market: the case of the UK retail clothing sector. Int J Retail Distrib Manag 34(12):892–903

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Reichhart A, Holweg M (2007) Creating the customer-responsive supply chain: a reconciliation of concepts. Int J Oper Prod Manag 27(11):1144–1172

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Rho B-H, Yur Y-M (1998) A comparative study on the structural relationships of manufacturing practices, lead time and productivity in Japan and Korea. J Oper Manag 16(2–3):257–270

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Sayid R (2008) Budget store primark to overtake marks & spencer. The Daily Mirror, Ruki Sayid, 23/04/2008. www.mirror.co.uk

  • Sen A (2008) The US fashion industry: a supply chain review. Int J Prod Econ 114(2):571–593

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Sheridan M, Moore, Nobbs K (2006) Fast fashion requires fast marketing the role of category management in fast fashion positioning. J Fashion Market Manag 10(3):301–315

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Storey J, Emberson C, Reade D (2005) The barriers to customer responsive supply chain management. Int J Oper Prod Manag 25(3):242–260

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Sunday Tribune (2005) Primark takes a giant leap in the space race (By Aine Coffey, 17 July 2005, www.tribune.ie)

  • The US Department of Trade (www.osha.gov/pls/imis/). Accessed 4 April 2009

  • The US Department of Labour (www.bls.gov/news.relese/ecopro.t02.htm). Accessed 11 March 2009

  • Tokatli N (2007) Global sourcing: insights from the global clothing industry – The case Of Zara, A fast fashion retailer. J Econ Geogr; Advance Access Published in Oct 23, Oxford University Press, London

    Google Scholar 

  • Tokatli N, Wrigley N, Kizilgun O (2008) Shifting global supply networks and fast fashion: made in turkey for marks & spencer. Global Network 8(3):261–280

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Tyler D, Heeley J, Bhamra T (2006) Supply chain influences on new product development in fashion clothing. J Fashion Market Manag 10(3):316–328

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • UNCTAD Current Studies on FDI and Development (2005) TNCs and the removal of textiles and clothing quotas. United Nations, New York and Geneva. www.unctad.org/en/docs/iteiia20051_en.pdf. Accessed 2 Nov 2008

  • van Donk DP, van der Vaart T (2007) Responsiveness through Buyer-focused cells: exploring a new supply strategy. Int J Oper Prod Manag 27(12):1362–1379

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Van Hoek RI (2001) The rediscovery of postponement a literature review and directions for research. J Oper Manag 19:161–184

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Wadhwa S, Saxenay A, Chanz FTS (2008) Framework for flexibility in dynamic supply chain management. Int J Prod Res 46(6):1373–1404

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • www.sdlgreenstone.com/files/case-study-primark.pdf. Accessed 15 April 2009

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Bart L. MacCarthy .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2010 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

MacCarthy, B.L., Jayarathne, P.G.S.A. (2010). Fast Fashion: Achieving Global Quick Response (GQR) in the Internationally Dispersed Clothing Industry. In: Cheng, T., Choi, TM. (eds) Innovative Quick Response Programs in Logistics and Supply Chain Management. International Handbooks on Information Systems. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-04313-0_3

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics