Skip to main content

Bio-Guided Fractionation and Identification of Allergens in Complex Mixtures and Products

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
  • 2429 Accesses

Abstract

The opening step for any prevention strategy for skin sensitization is the identification of new allergens, ideally before they are put into the market, though already present in consumer products. Identifying contact allergens among the myriad of chemicals used in commercial products can be an extremely arduous task. In the case of fragrance allergy, for instance, approximately 3,000 ingredients, of synthetic origin or natural products, are available to the perfumer for compounding a fragrance formula, which may consist of 10–300 different ingredients in a cosmetic product. In this chapter, a methodology based on the combination of bioassay-guided chemical fractionation, patch test and/or use testing of individuals with fractions, detailed chemical composition analysis of positive fractions, and chemical structure-activity relationship analysis of identified molecules is presented as a valuable tool for the identification of allergens in complex mixtures. Practical applications such as the cases of eaux de toilette and the allergenic natural extract oak moss are detailed.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution.

Buying options

Chapter
USD   29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD   299.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Learn about institutional subscriptions

References

  1. Lachapelle JM (2001) Principles of prevention and protection in contact dermatitis (with special reference to occupational dermatology). In: Rycroft RJG, Menné T, Frosch PJ, Lepoittevin JP (eds) Textbook of contact dermatitis. Springer, Berlin, pp 979–993

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  2. Lepoittevin JP (1999) Development of structure–activity relationships (SARs) in allergic contact dermatitis. Cell Biol Toxicol 15:47–55

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  3. Kimber I, Basketter DA, Butler M, Gamer A, Garrigue JL, Gerberick GF, Newsome C, Steiling W, Vohr HW (2003) Classification of contact allergens according to potency: proposals. Food Chem Toxicol 41:1799–1809

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  4. Robinson MK, Gerberick GF, Ryan CA, McNamee P, White IR, Basketter DA (2000) The importance of exposure estimation in the assessment of skin sensitization risk. Contact Dermatitis 42:251–259

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  5. Bauer K, Garbe D, Surburg H (1997) Common fragrance and flavor materials. Preparation, properties and uses, 3rd edn. Wiley-VCH, Weinheim

    Google Scholar 

  6. Rastogi SC (1998) Contents of sensitizing fragrance materials in natural ingredient based cosmetics. In: Frosch PJ, Johansen JD, White IR (eds) Fragrances: beneficial and adverse effects. Springer, Berlin, pp 113–120

    Google Scholar 

  7. Pieters L, Vlietinck AJ (2005) Bioguided isolation of pharmacologically active plant components, still a valuable strategy for the finding of new lead compounds? J Ethnopharmacol 100:57–60

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  8. Houghton PJ, Raman A (1998) Laboratory handbook for the fractionation of natural extracts, 2nd edn. Springer, Berlin

    Book  Google Scholar 

  9. Mutterer V, Giménez-Arnau E, Lepoittevin JP, Johansen JD, Frosch PJ, Menné T, Andersen KE, Bruze M, Rastogi SC, White IR (1999) Identification of coumarin as the sensitizer in a patient sensitive to her own perfume but negative to the fragrance mix. Contact Dermatitis 40:196–199

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  10. Larsen W, Nakayama H, Lindberg M, Fischer T, Elsner P, Burrows D, Jordan W, Shaw S, Wilkinson J, Marks J, Sugawara M, Nethercott J (1996) Fragrance contact dermatitis. A world-wide multicentre investigation (part I). Am J Contact Dermatitis 7:77–83

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  11. Frosch PJ, Pirker C, Rastogi SC, Andersen KE, Bruze M, Svedman C, Goossens A, White IR, Uter W, Giménez-Arnau E, Lepoittevin JP, Menné T, Johansen JD (2005) Patch testing with a new fragrance mix detects additional patients sensitive to perfumes and missed by the current fragrance mix. Contact Dermatitis 52:207–215

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  12. Frosch PJ, Rastogi SC, Pirker C, Brinkmeier T, Andersen KE, Bruze M, Svedman C, Goossens A, White IR, Uter W, Giménez-Arnau E, Lepoittevin JP, Johansen JD, Menné T (2005) Patch testing with a new fragrance mix – reactivity to the individual constituents and chemical detection in relevant cosmetic products. Contact Dermatitis 52:216–225

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  13. Landsteiner K, Jacobs J (1936) Studies on the sensitization of animals with simple chemical compounds. J Exp Med 64:625–639

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  14. Lepoittevin JP (2001) Molecular aspects of allergic contact dermatitis. In: Rycroft RJG, Menné T, Frosch PJ, Lepoittevin JP (eds) Textbook of contact dermatitis. Springer, Berlin, pp 59–89

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  15. Dupuis G, Benezra C (1982) Allergic contact dermatitis to simple chemicals. A molecular approach. Marcel Dekker, New York

    Google Scholar 

  16. Barratt MD, Basketter DA, Chamberlain M, Admans GD, Langowski JJ (1994) An expert system rulebase for identifying contact allergens. Toxicol In Vitro 8:1053–1060

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  17. Rastogi SC, Lepoittevin JP, Johansen JD, Frosch PJ, Menné T, Bruze M, Dreier B, Andersen KE, White IR (1998) Fragrances and other materials in deodorants: search for potentially sensitizing molecules using combined GC-MS and structure activity relationship (SAR) analysis. Contact Dermatitis 39:293–303

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  18. Giménez-Arnau E, Andersen KE, Bruze M, Frosch PJ, Johansen JD, Menné T, Rastogi SC, White IR, Lepoittevin JP (2000) Identification of Lilial® as a fragrance sensitizer in a perfume by bioassay-guided chemical fractionation and structure-activity relationships. Contact Dermatitis 43:351–358

    Article  Google Scholar 

  19. Larsen WG (1983) Allergic contact dermatitis to the fragrance material lilial. Contact Dermatitis 9:158–159

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  20. Sugai T (1994) Group study IV-farnesol and lily aldehyde. Environ Dermatol 1:213–214

    Google Scholar 

  21. European Commission (2003) Directive 2003/15/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 27 February 2003 amending Council Directive 76/768/EEC on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to cosmetic products (7th Amendment to the European Cosmetics Directive). Off J Eur Union L-66:26–35

    Google Scholar 

  22. Giménez-Arnau A, Giménez-Arnau E, Serra-Baldrich E, Lepoittevin JP, Camarasa JG (2002) Principles and methodology for identification of fragrance allergens in consumer products. Contact Dermatitis 47:345–352

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  23. Buckley DA, Wakelin SH, Seed PT, Holloway D, Rycroft RJG, White IR, McFadden JP (2000) The frequency of fragrance allergy in a patch test population over a 17-year period. Br J Dermatol 142:279–283

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  24. Schnuch A, Lessmann H, Geier J, Frosch PJ, Uter W (2004) Contact allergy to fragrances: frequencies of sensitization from 1996 to 2002. Results of the IVDK. Contact Dermatitis 50:65–76

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  25. Gavin J, Tabacchi R (1975) Isolement et identification de composés phénoliques et monoterpéniques de la mousse de chêne (Evernia prunastri (L.) Arch.). Helv Chim Acta 58:190–194

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  26. Schulz H, Albroscheit G (1989) Characterization of oak moss products used in perfumery by high-performance liquid chromatography. J Chromatogr 466:301–306

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  27. Dahlquist I, Fregert S (1980) Contact allergy to atranorin in lichens and perfumes. Contact Dermatitis 6:111–119

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  28. Thune P, Solberg Y, McFadden N, Staerfelt F, Sandberg M (1982) Perfume allergy due to oak moss and other lichens. Contact Dermatitis 8:396–400

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  29. Gonçalo S, Cabral F, Gonçalo M (1988) Contact sensitivity to oak moss. Contact Dermatitis 19:355–357

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  30. Bernard G, Giménez-Arnau E, Rastogi SC, Heydorn S, Johansen JD, Menné T, Goossens A, Andersen KE, Lepoittevin JP (2003) Contact allergy to oak moss: search for sensitizing molecules using combined bioassay-guided chemical fractionation, GC-MS, and structure-activity relationship analysis. Arch Dermatol Res 295:229–235

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  31. Johansen JD, Bernard G, Giménez-Arnau E, Lepoittevin JP, Bruze M, Andersen KE (2006) Comparison of elicitation potential of chloroatranol and atranol–2 allergens in oak moss absolute. Contact Dermatitis 54:192–195

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  32. Johansen JD, Andersen KE, Svedman C, Bruze M, Bernard G, Giménez-Arnau E, Rastogi SC, Lepoittevin JP, Menné T (2003) Chloroatranol, an extremely potent allergen hidden in perfumes: a dose-response elicitation study. Contact Dermatitis 49:180–184

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  33. Rastogi SC, Bossi R, Johansen JD, Menné T, Bernard G, Giménez-Arnau E, Lepoittevin JP (2004) Content of oak moss allergens atranol and chloroatranol in perfumes and similar products. Contact Dermatitis 50:367–370

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Elena Giménez-Arnau .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2011 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Giménez-Arnau, E. (2011). Bio-Guided Fractionation and Identification of Allergens in Complex Mixtures and Products. In: Johansen, J., Frosch, P., Lepoittevin, JP. (eds) Contact Dermatitis. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-03827-3_5

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-03827-3_5

  • Published:

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-642-03826-6

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-642-03827-3

  • eBook Packages: MedicineMedicine (R0)

Publish with us

Policies and ethics