Skip to main content

Surface Capillary-Gravity Short-Crested Waves with a Current in Water of Finite Depth

  • Chapter
  • 435 Accesses

Abstract

Firstly, it is found that the third-order, or most probably higher-order, solution for the standing waves and short-crested waves of finite amplitude in water of finite depth cannot completely match the required amplitude equations. The solution to this incompatibility, involving both the amplitude equations and, probably, the other required phase equations for higher-order solution, is found entirely. Secondly, a linear dynamical system of surface capillary-gravity short-crested waves is developed by including a uniform current, thus leading to analytical expressions for the kinematic and dynamic variables in which a number of the classical, typical and latest special wave cases are involved. Thirdly, a second-order solution for surface capillary-gravity short-crested waves with a uniform current in finite depth is presented, depicting a series of typical three-dimensional wave patterns for comparison, concerning currents, shallow and deep water waves, and surface capillary waves. Fourthly, a third-order solution for surface gravity short-crested waves with a uniform current in finite depth is obtained, giving exhaustively explicit formulas for the wave force and moment exerted on a vertical breakwater, and showing a number of surprising features on the maximum load varying respectively with wave phase and incident angle. Finally, a third-order solution for surface capillary-gravity short-crested waves in finite depth is derived with graphs, showing the surface profiles, patterns and their projections, and the locations of the zeros and poles of the third-order angular frequency involving the second- and third-order surface elevations and velocity potentials.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution.

Preview

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

References

  1. Battjes J A (1982). Effects of short-crestedness on wave loads on long structures. Appl Ocean Engng 4: 165–172

    Article  Google Scholar 

  2. Bridges T J, Dias F, Menasee D (2001). Steady three-dimensional water-wave patterns on a finite-depth fluid. J Fluid Mech 436: 145–175

    Article  MATH  MathSciNet  ADS  Google Scholar 

  3. Concus P (1962). Standing capillary-gravity waves of finite amplitude. J Fluid Mech 14: 568–576

    Article  MATH  MathSciNet  ADS  Google Scholar 

  4. Craig W, Nicholls D P (2000). Traveling two and three dimensional capillary-gravity water waves. SIAM J Math Anal 32: 323–359

    Article  MATH  MathSciNet  Google Scholar 

  5. Craig W, Nicholls D P (2002). Traveling gravity water waves in two and three dimensions. Eur J Mech B/Fluids 21: 615–641

    Article  MATH  MathSciNet  Google Scholar 

  6. Dingemans M W (1997). Water wave propagation over uneven bottom. World Scientific, Singapore

    Book  Google Scholar 

  7. Fenton J D (1985). Wave forces on vertical walls. J Waterway Port Coastal Ocean Engng 111: 693–718

    Article  Google Scholar 

  8. Fenton J D (1985). A fifth-order Stokes theory for steady waves. J Waterway Port Coastal Ocean Engng 111: 216–234

    Article  Google Scholar 

  9. Fu Z Y (2008). Monochromatic short-crested waves in water of linite depth: theory, wave force, and modulation stability (in Chinese). Master’s dissertation, Shanghai University, Shanghai

    Google Scholar 

  10. Goda Y (1967). The fourth order approximation to the pressure of standing waves. Coastal Engng Jap 10: 1–11

    Google Scholar 

  11. Henry D (2007). Particle trajectories in linear periodic capillary and capillary-gravity water waves. Phil Trans R Soc A 365: 2241–2251

    Article  MATH  MathSciNet  ADS  Google Scholar 

  12. Hsu J R C, Tsuchiva Y, Silvester R (1979). Third-order approximation to short-crested waves. J Fluid Mech 90: 179–196

    Article  MATH  ADS  Google Scholar 

  13. Hsu J R C (1990). Short-crested waves. In: Herbich J B (ed) Handbook of coastal and ocean engineering, Vol 1 Gulf Publishing Company, Houston. 95–174

    Google Scholar 

  14. Huang H, Fu J (2006). The patterns of surface capillary-gravity short-crested waves with uniform current fields in coastal waters. Acta Mech Sin 22: 433–441

    Article  MathSciNet  ADS  MATH  Google Scholar 

  15. Huang H (2008). Linear surface capillary-gravity short-crested waves on a current. Chin Sci Bull 53: 3267–3271

    Article  Google Scholar 

  16. Ioualalen M, Okamura M (2002). Structure of the instability associated with harmonic resonance of short-crested waves. J Phys Oceanogr 32: 1331–1337

    Article  MathSciNet  ADS  Google Scholar 

  17. Ioualalen M, Okamura M, Cornier S, et al (2006). Computation of short-crested deepwater waves. J Waterway Port Coastal Ocean Engng 132: 157–165.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  18. Jeng D S (2002) Wave kinematics of partial reflection from a vertical wall. Ocean Engng 29: 1711–1724

    Article  Google Scholar 

  19. Kimmoun O, Branger H, Kharif C (1999). On short-crested waves: experimental and analytical investigations. Eur J Mech B/Fluids 18: 889–930

    Article  MATH  MathSciNet  Google Scholar 

  20. Madsen P A, Fuhrman D R (2006). Third-order theory for bichromatic bi-directional water waves. J Fluid Mech 557: 369–397

    Article  MATH  MathSciNet  ADS  Google Scholar 

  21. Marchant T R, Robert A J (1987). Properties of short-crested waves in water of finite depth. J Austral Math Soc B 29: 103–125

    Article  MATH  Google Scholar 

  22. Mei C C, Stiassnie M, Yue D K-P (2005). Theory and applications of ocean surface waves, Part 1: Linear aspects; Part 2. Nonlinear aspects. World Scientific, Singapore

    Google Scholar 

  23. Okamura M, Ioualalen M, Kharif C (2003). Standing waves on water of uniform depth: on their resonances and matching with short-crested waves. J Fluid Mech 557: 369–397

    MathSciNet  Google Scholar 

  24. Phillips O M (1977). The dynamics of the upper ocean. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge

    MATH  Google Scholar 

  25. Robert A J (1983). Highly nonlinear short-crested water waves. J Fluid Mech 135: 301–321

    Article  ADS  Google Scholar 

  26. Sammarco P, Mei C C, Trulsen T (1994). Nonlinear resonance of free surface waves in a current over a sinusoidal bottom: a numerical study. J Fluid Mech 279: 377–405

    Article  MATH  MathSciNet  ADS  Google Scholar 

  27. Schäffer H A, Steenberg C M (2003). Second-order wavemaker theory for multidirectional waves. Ocean Engng 30: 1203–1231

    Article  Google Scholar 

  28. Sharma J, Dean R (1981). Second-order directional seas and associated wave forces. Soc Pet Engrs J: 129–140

    Google Scholar 

  29. Tadjbakhsh I, Keller J B (1960). Standing surface waves of finite amplitude. J Fluid Mech 8: 442–451

    Article  MATH  MathSciNet  ADS  Google Scholar 

  30. Teo H T (2003). Wave pressures on a vertical wall due to short-crested waves: fifth-order approximation. Ocean Engng 30 (16): 2157–2166

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2009 Higher Education Press, Beijing and Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Huang, H. (2009). Surface Capillary-Gravity Short-Crested Waves with a Current in Water of Finite Depth. In: Dynamics of Surface Waves in Coastal Waters. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-540-88831-4_9

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-540-88831-4_9

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-540-88830-7

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-540-88831-4

Publish with us

Policies and ethics