Skip to main content

Oysters from Tide to Table in the Pacific Northwest

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Coastal Heritage and Cultural Resilience

Part of the book series: Ethnobiology ((EBL))

Abstract

This paper examines oyster harvesting, farming, and consumption in the Pacific Northwest from 1850 to the present. A range of archival cultural-historical, biological, environmental, and culinary source material is used to trace the interwoven relationship between people and edible oysters. The paper has several foci, including the historic oyster businesses focused primarily on Washington’s Puget Sound and Willapa Bay, the fate of the Ostrea lurida over time, and the introduction of nonnative oysters. The role of Japanese immigrants in the oyster industry in relation to the Alien Land Act and World War II is presented. The contemporary passion for oyster consumption is presented in the context of terroir or meroir, a true taste of place for oysters related to the oyster’s unique biology and ecology. The final section of the chapter covers human-induced stress on the oysters and their environment and profiles initiatives for building collaborative knowledge between scientists and community members. Encouraging, supporting, and expanding experiential opportunities for people to engage with oysters and their environment is part of building a foundation that can ultimately become local knowledge underpinning a resilient biocultural heritage.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 129.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Hardcover Book
USD 169.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  • Anonymous (2013). Meroir or Merroir? Ostreophile or ostreaphile? The oyster is my world: History of oysters and oyster cultivation. Retrieved December 13, 2017, from https://theoystersmyworld.com/2013/01/05/meroir-or-merroir-ostreophile-or-ostreaphile/

  • Batdorf, C. (1990). Northwest native harvest. Surrey, BC: Hancock House Publishers Ltd..

    Google Scholar 

  • Bates, E., & Simmons, B. (2017). Creating a culture of shoreline stewardship in Puget Sound (abstract). Salish Sea Ecosystem Conference. Retrieved January 2, 2018, from http://cedar.wwu.edu/ssec/2016ssec/engagement/15 poster http://cedar.wwu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1920&context=ssec

  • Berkes, F., & Turner, N. J. (2006). Knowledge and the evolution of conservation practice for social-ecological system resilience. Human Ecology, 34(4), 479–494.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Blankenship, G. E. (1923). Lights and shades of pioneer life on Puget Sound (1972 reprint). Seattle, WA: Shorey Book Store.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bourne, N. (1979). Crassostrea gigas Thunberg in British Columbia and the South Pacific. In R. Mann (Ed.), Exotic species in mariculture: Proceedings of a symposium on exotic species in mariculture: Case histories of the Japanese oyster Crassostrea gigas (Thunberg) with implications for other fisheries (pp. 1–54). Cambridge, MA and London: MIT Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Breitburg, D. L., Hondorp, D., Audemard, C., Carnegie, R., Burrell, R. B., Trice, M., Clark, V. (2015, February 11). Landscape-level variation in disease susceptibility related to shallow-water hypoxia. PLoS One https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0116223. Retrieved December 30, 2017, from http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0116223

  • Bricker, S. B., Rice, K. C., & Bricker, O. P. (2014). Headwaters to coast: Influence of human activities on water quality of Potomac River estuary. Aquatic Geochemistry, 20(2–3), 291–323.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Caldbick, J. (2010). 1900 census: The 12th federal census reveals that population has grown in every county in Washington State, cities have gotten bigger, and populations of women and minorities have grown. Retrieved December 18, 2018, from http://www.historylink.org/File/9332

  • Chef’s Resources, Inc. (2017). Oyster varieties. Retrieved December 28, 2017, from http://www.chefs-resources.com/seafood/oysters/

  • Chew, K. K. (1979). The Pacific oyster (Crassostrea gigas) in the West Coast of the United States. In R. Mann (Ed.), Exotic species in mariculture: Proceedings of a symposium on exotic species in mariculture: Case histories of the Japanese oyster Crassostrea gigas (Thunberg) with implications for other fisheries (pp. 54–79). Cambridge, MA and London: MIT Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Chew, K. K. (1988). Oyster aquaculture in the Pacific Northwest. In S. Keller (Ed.), Proceedings of the fourth Alaska aquaculture conference (pp 67–76), 18–21 November 1987. Alaska Sea Grant Report no. 88-4. Sitka Alaska: University of Alaska.

    Google Scholar 

  • Clark, O. (2003). Encyclopedia of wine. London: Time Warner Books.

    Google Scholar 

  • Coen, L. D., & Humphries, T. (2017). Oyster-generated marine habitats and their services: Enhancement, restoration and monitoring. In S. K. Allison & S. D. Murphy (Eds.), Routledge handbook of ecological and environmental restoration (pp. 274–294). London and New York: Routledge.

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Cook, R. (2001). Justice failed Japanese immigrant. Associated Press, Los Angeles Times. Retrieved 18 December 18, 2017, from http://articles.latimes.com/2001/mar/04/local/me-33055

  • Culinary Central: What is merior? Le Cordon Bleu (2015, May 4). Retrieved December 22, 2017, from http://www.degrees247.com/Student-Life/culinary-central/May-2015/What-Is-Meroir

  • de Danaan, L. (2013). Katie Gale: A coast Salish woman’s life on Oyster Bay. Lincoln, NE and London: University of Nebraska Press.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Dougherty, P. (2013). Mobs forcibly expel most of Seattle’s Chinese residents beginning on February 7, 1886. History Link Essay 2745. Retrieved April 4, 2018, from http://www.historylink.org/File/2745

  • Echtle, E. (2013). The cultural history of the Olympia oyster. City of Olympia. Retrieved December 18, 2017, from http://olympiawa.gov/city-services/parks/percival-landing/olympia-oyster.aspx

  • Element Sea Foods. (2016, June 14). The appellation trail: What’s in an oyster name? Guides: meroir. Retrieved December 28, 2017, from https://www.elementseafood.com/the-appellation-trail-whats-in-an-oyster-name/

  • Gordon, D. C., Blanton, N. E., & Nosho, T. Y. (2001). Heaven on the half shell: The story of the Northwest’s love affair with the oyster. Portland, OR: Washington Sea Grant Program and Westwinds Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Grabowski, J. H., Brumbaugh, R. D., Conrad, R. F., Keeler, A. G., Opaluch, J. J., Peterson, C. H., Piehler, M. F., Powers, S. P., & Smyth, A. R. (2012). Economic valuation of ecosystem services provided by oyster reefs. Bioscience, 62(10), 900–909.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Groth, S., & Rumrill, S. (2009). History of Olympia oysters (Ostrea lurida Carpenter 1864) in Oregon estuaries, and a description of recovering populations in Coos Bay. Journal of Shellfish Research, 28(1), 51–58.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hudson, B., (2016). Public opinion of shellfish farming. A report on the public perception of shellfish aquaculture in select counties of Washington, Oregon, and California. Olympia, WA: Pacific Shellfish Institute.

    Google Scholar 

  • In2013dollars.com. (2017). U.S. inflation rate. Retrieved December 13, 2017, from http://www.in2013dollars.com/1850-dollars-in-2017?amount=20

  • Jacobsen, R. (2008). A geography of oysters. New York and London: Bloomsbury.

    Google Scholar 

  • Jacobsen, R. (2009, October 20). Henderson Inlet oysters. Retrieved December 28, 2017, from https://www.oysterguide.com/new-discoveries/henderson-inlet-oysters/

  • Jacobsen, R. (2010). American terroir. New York and London: Bloomsbury.

    Google Scholar 

  • Jacobsen, R. (2016). The essential oyster. New York and London: Bloomsbury.

    Google Scholar 

  • Justia. (2017). Brenner v. J.J. Brenner Oyster Co. (48 Wn.2d 264, 292 P.2d 1052) (1956). Retrieved December 21, 2018, from https://law.justia.com/cases/washington/supreme-court/1956/33321-1.html

  • Kershaw, A. (1999). Jack London: A life. New York: St Martin’s Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kuhnlein, H. V., & Humphries, M. M. (2017). Traditional animal foods of indigenous peoples of northern North America. Montreal: McGill University Centre for Indigenous Peoples’ Nutrition and Environment. Retrieved February 26, 2018, from http://traditionalanimalfoods.org/

  • Langdon, C. (2011). West coast upwelling impacts seed availability for Pacific oyster farmers (abstacts of technical papers presented at the 103rd Annual Meeting of the National Shellfish Association, Baltimore, MD, March 27–31, 2011). Journal of Shellfish Research, 30(2), 525.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lee, R., Lovatelli, A., & Ababouch, L. (2008). Bivalve depuration: Fundamental and practical aspects (FAO Fisheries Technical Paper No. 511). Rome: United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization.

    Google Scholar 

  • Levoie, R. E. (2009). Oyster culture in North America: History, present and future (special edition of the 1st & 2nd International Oyster Symposium, The Foundation of the Oyster Institute, Japan). Oyster Research Institute News, 24, 14–21. Retrieved December 27, 2017, from http://kakiken.or.jp/html-2/kakinews_pdf/news24.pdf

  • Lockwood, D. (2017). Can shellfish adapt to ocean acidification. Chemical & Engineering News, 95, 22–24.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lyon, C. (2014, May 23). Alien land laws. Densho encyclopedia. Retrieved December 18, 2017, from http://encyclopedia.densho.org/Alien%20land%20laws/

  • Mabardy, R. A., Waldbusser, G. G., Conway, F., & Olsen, C. S. (2015). Perception and response of the U.S. west coast shellfish industry to ocean acidification: The voice of the canaries in the coal mine. Journal of Shellfish Research, 34(2), 565–572.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Manta. (n.d.). Retrieved December 21, 2017, from https://www.manta.com/c/mmcn7sw/western-oyster-company

  • Moss, M. L. (1993). Shellfish, gender, and status on the northwest coast: Reconciling archeological, ethnographic and ethnohistorical records of the Tlingit. American Anthropologist, 95(3), 631–652.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Narchi, N. E., Cornier, S., Canu, D. M., Aguilar-Rosa, L., Bender, M. G., Jacquelin, C., Thiba, M., & Moura, G. G. M. (2014). Marine ethnobiology, a rather neglected area, which can provide an important contribution to ocean and coastal management. Ocean and Coastal Management, 89, 117–126.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration). (2014, April 9). Oyster aquaculture could significantly improve Potomac River estuary water quality. Science Daily. Retrieved January 2, 2018, from https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/04/140409143940.htm

  • NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration Habitat Conservation). (2017). Puget Sound finely aged oysters. Retrieved January 2, 2018, from http://www.habitat.noaa.gov/highlights/pugetsoundsfinelyagedoysters.html

  • Oregon encyclopedia. (2017). Alfred Qualman (1904–1993). Retrieved December 21, 2017, from https://oregonencyclopedia.org/articles/qualman_alfred_1904_1993_/#.WjxhlVWnGUk

  • Oregon Writers Project. (1939). An Oregon almanac for 1940. Salem: Oregon Works Project Administration.

    Google Scholar 

  • Patterson, N. (compiler). (1987). Washington’s oyster industry: A documentary history. Olympia, WA: Washington State Archives.

    Google Scholar 

  • Perry, R. I., Ommer, R. E., Barange, M., Jentoft, S., Neis, B., & Sumaila, U. R. (2011). Marine social-ecological responses to environmental change and the impacts of globalization. Fish and Fisheries, 12(4), 427–450.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pieroni, A., Pawera, L., & Sha, G. M. (2016). Gastronomic ethnobiology. In U. P. Albuquerque & R. Nóbrega Alves (Eds.), Introduction to ethnobiology (pp. 53–62). Cham, Switzerland: Springer International.

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Puget Sound Restoration Fund. (n.d.-a). Retrieved January 1, 2018, from https://www.restorationfund.org/projects/csf

  • Puget Sound Restoration Fund. (n.d.-b). Shellfish gardening. Retrieved January 1, 2018, from https://www.restorationfund.org/projects/shellfishgardening

  • Qualman, A. (1983). Blood on the half shell. Portland, OR: Binford & Mort, Thomas Binford, Publisher.

    Google Scholar 

  • Rick, T. C., Reeder-Myers, L. A., Hofman, C. A., Breitburg, D., Lockwood, R., Henkes, G., Kellogg, L., Lowery, D., Luckenbach, M. W., Mann, R., Ogburn, M. B., Southworth, M., Wah, J., Wesson, J., & Hines, A. H. (2016). Millennial-scale sustainability of Native American oyster fishery. PNAS, 13(23), 6586–6572.

    Google Scholar 

  • Steele, E. N. (1964). The immigrant oyster (Ostrea gigas) now known as the Pacific oyster. Olympia, WA: Warren’s Quick Print.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sterling, L. (n.d.). Yamashia family. Jerry Yamashita, the oyster saga. Retrieved December 21, 2017, from https://toandos.org/toandos-families

  • Suttles, W., & Lane, B. (1990). Southern Coast Salish. In W. Suttles (Ed.), Handbook of North American Indians (Vol. 7: Northwest Coast) (pp. 485–490). Washington, DC: Smithsonian Institution.

    Google Scholar 

  • Waldbusser, G. G., Brunner, E. L., Haley, B. A., Hales, B., Langdon, C. J., & Prahl, F. G. (2013). A developmental and energetic basis linking larval oyster shell formation to acidification sensitivity. Geophysical Research Letters, 40(10). https://doi.org/10.1002/grl.50449.

  • Waldbusser, G. G., Grey, G. W., Hales, B., Langdon, C. J., & Hutchinson, G. (2016). Slow shell building a possible trait for resistance to the efforts of acute ocean acidification. Limnology and Oceanography, 61(6), 1969–1983.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Walsh, R. (2009). Sex, death and oysters: A half-shell lover’s world tour. Berkeley, CA: Counterpoint Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Washington Sea Grant. (2002). Small-scale oyster farming for pleasure and profit in Washington. Retrieved January 1, 2018, from https://www.restorationfund.org/sites/default/files/smallscaleoyster804.pdf

  • Washington State University Extension. (2018). Shore stewards. Retrieved January 1, 2018, from http://shorestewards.cw.wsu.edu/

  • White, J., Ruesink, J. L., & Trimble, A. C. (2009). The nearly forgotten oyster: Ostrea lurida Carpenter 1864 (Olympia oyster) history and management in Washington State. Journal of Shellfish Research, 28(1), 43–49.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Wikfors, G. H. (2011). Trophic interactions between phytoplankton and bivalve aquaculture. In S. E. Shumway (Ed.), Shellfish aquaculture and the environment (pp. 125–133). Hoboken, NJ: Wiley-Blackwell.

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2018 Springer Nature Switzerland AG

About this chapter

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this chapter

Price, L.L. (2018). Oysters from Tide to Table in the Pacific Northwest. In: Price, L., Narchi, N. (eds) Coastal Heritage and Cultural Resilience. Ethnobiology. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-99025-5_6

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics