Abstract
This chapter analyses how secondhand consumption and vintage fashion retailers are incorporated into Swedish urban life and the retail planning context. The chapter is part of an ongoing research project, studying retail planning and vintage fashion consumption practices. Key concepts when discussing retail and localization are attractiveness and accessibility. Cities are often characterised by their unique qualities and the spirit of creativity. In the “experience society”, retail and (fashion) consumption are regarded as everyday activities for identity development and communication. Goods/services have become value-creating components of a hedonistic fashion consumption culture that is characterised by an increasingly more knowledgeable and demanding fashion consumer. Secondhand and vintage fashion represents an economic grey area and an important part of the informal economy. The existence of both types of retailer within an urban space can communicate specific values and imagery. Stores, which sell pre-owned goods and dedicate themselves to re-use and charity, have their own specific historiography. In the Western welfare context, however, re-use and secondhand goods obtain a specific significance via the fashion transformation of the pre-owned, which took place during the post-war era. In place development and retail planning, there is trust in the potential of fashion, sustainability and creativity. This finds specific expression when it comes to the production of urban fashion retail space. This chapter sheds light on the complex relationship between retail planning and the production of green vintage fashion space. By identifying how some Swedish secondhand and vintage fashion markets are organised, the study contributes to an understanding of the conditions under which secondhand and vintage fashion markets operate.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
References
Appelgren, S., & Bohlin, A. (2015). Growing in motion: The circulation of used things on second-hand markets. Culture Unbound: Journal of Current Cultural Research, 7(1), 143–168.
Arnould, E. J., & Thompson, C. J. (2005). Consumer culture theory (CCT): Twenty years of research. Journal of Consumer Research, 31(4), 868–882.
Aslan, D. U., & Fredriksson, C. (2017). Den hållbara handelsstaden: Om konsten att hantera gröna konsumenter. In D. U. Aslan & C. Fredriksson (Eds.), Handelsstad i förvandling: Stadsliv, konsumtion och digitalisering. Lund: Lund University.
Campbell, C. (2005). The craft consumer: Culture, craft and consumption in a postmodern society. Journal of Consumer Culture, 5(1), 23–42.
Cherrier, H. (2009). Anti-consumption discourses and consumer-resistant identities. Journal of Business Research, 62(2), 181–190.
Connolly, J., & Prothero, A. (2008). Green consumption life-politics, risk and contradictions. Journal of Consumer Culture, 8(1), 117–145.
Crewe, L. (2003). Geographies of retailing and consumption: Markets in motion. Progress in Human Geography, 27(3), 352–362.
Crewe, L. (2017). The geographies of fashion. Consumption, space and value. London: Bloomsbury.
de Wit Sandström, I. (2016). Unik butik. Om ‘egna linjer’ på modets marknad. In I. de Wit Sandström & C. Fredriksson (Eds.), À la mode. Mode mellan konst, kultur och kommers (pp. 70–87). Göteborg: Makadam.
Dolega, L. (2012). UK high streets during global economic crisis. Southampton: University of Southampton.
Ekström, K. M. (2015). Waste management and sustainable consumption. Reflections on consumer waste. New York: Routledge.
Findlay, A. M., & Sparks, L. (2012). Far from the magic of the mall: Retail (change) in other places. Scottish Geographical Journal, 128(1), 24–41.
Findlay, A. M., & Sparks, L. (2013, November). Reviewing high streets and town centres. Town and Country Planning, 82, 456–456.
Fredriksson, C. (2011). Retail and fashion – A happy marriage? The making of a fashion industry research design. Culture Unbound: Journal of Current Cultural Research, 3(1), 43–54.
Fredriksson, C. (2012). BeGreppbart – Mode [Conceptual fashion]. Stockholm: Liber.
Fredriksson, C. (2013). Second-hand values and the making of a green fashion eco market. In Making sense of consumption (pp. 197–212). Göteborg: CFK, Gothemburg University.
Fredriksson, C. (2016). Fashion thinking practice. On crafting confessions and the creative consumer. Fashion Practice. The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion Industry, 8(1), 149–167.
Fredriksson, C., & Fuentes, C. (2014). Att sälja hållbara produkter: Detaljhandelsföretagens strategier för att skapa mening och värde för kunderna (Report). Stockholm: Swedish Retail & Wholesale Council.
Fuentes, C. (2014). Managing green complexities: Consumers’ strategies and techniques for greener shopping. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38(5), 485–492.
Fuentes, C., & Fredriksson, C. (2016). Sustainability service in-store: Service work and the promotion of sustainable consumption. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 44(5), 492–507.
Ghosh, A., & Craig, C. S. (1983). Formulating retail location strategy in a changing environment. The Journal of Marketing, 47(3), 56–68.
Gleim, M. R., Smith, J. S., Andrews, D., & Cronin, J. J. (2013). Against the green: A multi-method examination of the barriers to green consumption. Journal of Retailing, 89(1), 44–61.
Goss, J. (2004). Geography of consumption I. Progress in Human Geography, 28(3), 269–380.
Gregson, N., & Crewe, L. (1998). Dusting down second hand rose: Gendered identities and the world of second-hand goods in the space of the car boot sale. Gender, Place and Culture, 5(1), 77–100.
Gregson, N., & Crewe, L. (2003). Second-hand cultures. Oxford: Berg Publishers.
Gregson, N., Crewe, L., & Brooks, K. (2002). Discourse, displacement, and retail practice: Some pointers from the charity retail project. Environment and Planning A, 34(9), 1661–1683.
Grimsey, B. (2013). The Grimsey review: An alternative future for the high street. Available at www.vanishinghighstreet.com.
Guy, C. M. (1998). Controlling new retail spaces: The impress of planning policies in Western Europe. Urban Studies, 35(5–6), 953–979.
Hamari, J., Sjöklint, M., & Ukkonen, A. (2016). The sharing economy: Why people participate in collaborative consumption. Journal of the Association for Information Science & Technology, 67(9), 2047–2059.
Hankins, K. (2002). The restructuring of retail capital and the street. Tijdschrift voor Economische en Sociale Geografie, 93(1), 34–46.
Heinrichs, H. (2013). Sharing economy: A potential new way to sustainability. Ecological Perspectives for Science and Society, 22(4), 228–231.
Hernandez, T., & Bennison, D. (2000). The art and science of retail location decisions. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 28(8), 357–367.
Holzer, B. (2006). Political consumerism between individual choice and collective action: Social movements, role mobilization and signalling. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 30(5), 405–415.
Jackson, P. (1999). Consumption and identity: The cultural politics of shopping. European Planning Studies, 7(1), 25–39.
Jackson, P., & Thrift, N. (1995). Geographies of consumption. In D. Miller (Ed.), Acknowledging consumption (pp. 204–238). London: Routledge.
Kärrholm, M. (2012). Retailising space: Architecture, retail and the territorialisation of public space. Abingdon: Routledge.
Lee, M. S. W., Motion, J., & Conroy, D. (2009). Anti-consumption and brand avoidance. Journal of Business Research, 62(2), 169–180.
Lowe, M. (2005). The regional shopping centre in the inner city: A study of retail-led urban regeneration. Urban Studies, 42(3), 449–470.
Lowe, M., & Wrigley, N. (2000). Retail and the urban. Urban Geography, 21(7), 640–653.
Lury, C. (2011). Consumer culture. New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press.
Mansvelt, J. (2005). Geographies of consumption. London: Sage.
McRobbie, A. (2016). Be creative: Making a living in the new culture industries. Cambridge: Polity Books.
Micheletti, M., Follesdal, A., & Stolle, D. (2004). Politics, products, and markets: Exploring political consumerism past and present. New Brunswick: Transaction Publishers.
Miller, D., Jackson, P., Thrift, N., Holbrook, B., & Rowlands, M. (1998). Shopping, place, and identity. Abingdon: Routledge.
Moisander, J. (2007). Motivational complexity of green consumerism. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 31(4), 404–409.
Nelson, R. L. (1958). The selection of retail locations. New York: FW Dodge Corporation.
Perera, C., Auger, P., & Klein, J. (2016). Green consumption practices among young environmentalists: A practice theory perspective. Journal of Business Ethics, 138, 1–22.
Petersson McIntyre, M. (2014). Commodifying passion: The fashion of aesthetic labour. Journal of Cultural Economy, 7(1), 79–94.
Pharr, J. M. (2011). At the intersection of politics & consumption: A research agenda for investigating the effects of fair-trade marketing claims on ethical shopping behavior. Journal of Leadership, Accountability and Ethics, 8(5), 63–72.
Portas, M. (2011). The Portas review: An independent review into the future of our high streets. London: Department for Business, Innovation and Skills. Available at http://www.bis.gov.uk.
Proudfoot, M. J. (1937). City retail structure. Economic Geography, 13(4), 425–428.
Schiller, R. (1986). Retail decentralisation: The coming of the third wave. The Planner, 72(7), 13–15.
Sherry, J. F., Jr. (1990). A sociocultural analysis of a Midwestern American flea market. Journal of Consumer Research, 17(1), 13–30.
Sörum, N., & Fuentes, C. (2016). Materialiserad moral: Smartphones, applikationer och etisk konsumtion. Kulturella Perspektiv, 25(2), 6–15.
Straughan, R. D., & Roberts, J. A. (1999). Environmental segmentation alternatives: A look at green consumer behavior in the new millennium. Journal of Consumer Marketing, 16(6), 558–575.
Warnaby, G. (2006). Marketing retail provision in UK towns and cities: Present practice and future prospects. Place Branding, 2(3), 195–209.
Warnaby, G. (2009). A town over time: Place representation in official guides. Conference paper, Association of Business Historians Annual Conference, Liverpool.
Watt, K., & Dubbeld, B. (2016). Enchanting the worn-out: The craft of selling second-hand things at Millerton Market, Cape Town. Social Dynamics, 41(1), 143–160.
Wrigley, N., & Brookes, E. (2014). Evolving high streets: Resilience & reinvention: Perspectives from social sciences. Southampton: University of Southampton.
Wrigley, N., & Dolega, L. (2011). Resilience, fragility, and adaptation: New evidence on the performance of UK high streets during global economic crisis and its policy implications. Environment and Planning A, 43(10), 2337–2363.
Wrigley, N., & Lambiri, D. (2014). High street performance and evolution. Southampton: University of Southampton.
Wrigley, N., & Lowe, M. (1996). Retailing, consumption and capital: Towards the new retail geography. London: Longman.
Zukin, S. (2004). Point of purchase: How shopping changed American culture. London: Routledge.
Zukin, S. (2009). Naked city: The death and life of authentic urban places. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Zukin, S., Trujillo, V., Frase, P., Jackson, Recuber, T., & Walker, A. (2009). New retail capital and neighborhood change: Boutiques and gentrification in New York City. City & Community, 8(1), 47–64.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2018 The Author(s)
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Fredriksson, C., Aslan, D.U. (2018). Secondhand Index and the Spirit of Green Vintage Fashion. In: Ryding, D., Henninger, C., Blazquez Cano, M. (eds) Vintage Luxury Fashion. Palgrave Advances in Luxury. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-71985-6_9
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-71985-6_9
Published:
Publisher Name: Palgrave Macmillan, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-319-71984-9
Online ISBN: 978-3-319-71985-6
eBook Packages: Business and ManagementBusiness and Management (R0)