Abstract
This chapter will focus on social labelling schemes implemented by non-governmental organizations (NGOs), which are one form of private regulatory initiatives for the promotion of labour standards in global supply chains. From a theoretical perspective, these schemes are based on information asymmetries in terms of social conditions in production, which exist between consumers and producers. They aim to minimize this information asymmetry, as equal levels of information enable consumers to decide in favour of products made under good conditions over those made under bad conditions. However, in practice there remains an information asymmetry, primarily between the producers and the labelling NGOs, but inevitably being passed on to the consumers. This results mainly from a deficient oversight capacity of the implementing NGOs to ensure that their standards are met. Therefore, the effectiveness of the labelling schemes is limited. This will be shown by means of three existing schemes, namely GoodWeave, Fairtrade, and the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). Hence, it will be argued that transparency with regard to the NGOs’ actual oversight capacity is necessary to make labelling schemes more effective. This might be achieved through a regulatory approach addressing the information provided by the labels. Furthermore, the International Labour Organization (ILO) could play a significant role by supporting labelling NGOs with necessary resources to strengthen their oversight capacity.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Notes
- 1.
See O’Rourke (2003), pp. 4–5.
- 2.
See Bartley (2007), pp. 297–298.
- 3.
Urminsky (2001), p. 38.
- 4.
Cf. Zadek et al. (1998), p. 16.
- 5.
See Freeman (1994), pp. 80–84.
- 6.
Cf. Chestnut (2013), p. 347.
- 7.
See Hicks (2012), pp. 165–166.
- 8.
Cf. Diller (1999), pp. 100–101.
- 9.
See e.g. Marx and Wouters (2016), p. 3.
- 10.
Marx and Wouters (2016), p. 6.
- 11.
See Nooruddin and Sokhey (2012), pp. 83–84.
- 12.
For this distinction see Zadek et al. (1998), pp. 24–27.
- 13.
The term ‘theory’ is used for the sake of delineation from ‘practice’, which is dealt with in the next section. To be precise, Akerlof has actually built a ‘model’ which is the basis for the more far-reaching neo-institutional theory of economics and the school of thought of New Institutional Economics.
- 14.
Jointly with Michael Spence and Joseph Stiglitz.
- 15.
For an (early) overview of the contributions see e.g. Löfgren et al. (2002), pp. 206–209.
- 16.
Cf. Akerlof (1970), pp. 492–499.
- 17.
Ibid., pp. 495–496.
- 18.
- 19.
See Akerlof (1970), p. 489.
- 20.
Cf. Löfgren et al. (2002), p. 197.
- 21.
Akerlof (1970), p. 490.
- 22.
Cf. Barkley Rosser (2003), p. 10.
- 23.
Akerlof (1970), p. 490.
- 24.
Since the argument of this chapter is of a conceptual nature, the following assessment is not an empirical study. It rather builds on other sources for relevant empirical information. The conceptual implications are the focus of interest though.
- 25.
See http://www.goodweave.net/index.php?cid=156. Accessed 5 Mar 2016.
- 26.
See GWI (2016b), p. 3.
- 27.
See GWI (2009).
- 28.
See http://www.goodweave.net/index.php?cid=156. Accessed 5 Mar 2016.
- 29.
GWI (2016b), p. 2.
- 30.
- 31.
GWI (2016b), p. 5.
- 32.
GWI (2016b), pp. 3–7 and also http://www.goodweave.net/about/child_labor_free_rugs. Accessed 5 Mar 2016.
- 33.
See Seidman (2012), p. 1035.
- 34.
See Ballet et al. (2014), p. 93.
- 35.
Cf. Seidman (2009).
- 36.
See http://www.goodweave.org/about/certification-division. Accessed 5 Mar 2016.
- 37.
See e.g. Seidman (2012), p. 1035.
- 38.
See GWI (2016a), p. 10.
- 39.
See Dumas (2013), p. 87.
- 40.
Ibid.
- 41.
There is a difference between the terms ‘Fair Trade’ and ‘Fairtrade’. While Fair Trade represents the broad movement ‘that seeks greater equity in international trade’, Fairtrade refers specifically to ‘the product certification system operated by Fairtrade International’. See Fair Trade Glossary (2011), p. 1.
- 42.
See http://www.fairtrade.net/about-fairtrade/history-of-fairtrade.html. Accessed 5 Mar 2016.
- 43.
See FI (2007), p. 3.
- 44.
See http://www.fairtrade.net/about-fairtrade/the-fairtrade-marks/fairtrade-mark.html. Accessed 5 March 2016.
- 45.
See FI (2007), p. 4.
- 46.
Ibid.
- 47.
Ibid.
- 48.
See FI (2007), p. 4.
- 49.
See FLO-CERT (2015), p. 8.
- 50.
Ibid., p. 4.
- 51.
See http://www.fairtrade.net/about-fairtrade/the-fairtrade-marks/using-the-fairtrade-mark.html. Accessed 5 Mar 2016.
- 52.
See FLO-CERT (2016), p. 7.
- 53.
See http://www.fairtrade.net/about-fairtrade/what-is-fairtrade.html. Accessed 5 Mar 2016.
- 54.
Cf. Raynolds (2014), p. 503.
- 55.
See FI (2015a), p. 8.
- 56.
Cf. Cramer et al. (2014), pp. 10–11.
- 57.
Cf. Dragusanu et al. (2014), p. 231.
- 58.
See FI (2015a), p. 17.
- 59.
Raynolds (2014), p. 503.
- 60.
- 61.
FI (2015b), p. 6.
- 62.
See Davenport and Low (2012), pp. 344–345.
- 63.
Cf. ibid., p. 332.
- 64.
FI (2015b), p. 10.
- 65.
FI (2015b), p. 10.
- 66.
Ibid., p. 16.
- 67.
Cramer et al. (2014), p. 5.
- 68.
See ibid., p. 6.
- 69.
Cramer et al. (2014), pp. 15–16.
- 70.
See FI (2015a), p. 24.
- 71.
See http://www.fairtrade.net/about-fairtrade/the-fairtrade-marks.html. Accessed 5 Mar 2016.
- 72.
See http://www.fairtrade.net/about-fairtrade/our-vision.html. Accessed 5 Mar 2016.
- 73.
See FSC (2015b), p. 2.
- 74.
Ibid., p. 6.
- 75.
See FSC (2015a), p. 1.
- 76.
Ibid.
- 77.
See FSC (2015b), p. 8.
- 78.
FSC (2015a), p. 2.
- 79.
See FSC (2015b), p. 7.
- 80.
Ibid., p. 6.
- 81.
See FSC (2015c), p. 2.
- 82.
See https://ic.fsc.org/en/certification. Accessed 5 Mar 2016.
- 83.
See http://fsc-watch.com. Accessed 5 Mar 2016.
- 84.
See Moog et al. (2015), pp. 474–475.
- 85.
Cf. Moog et al. (2015), p. 480.
- 86.
Cf. Chestnut (2013), p. 356.
- 87.
See Boström (2012), p. 11.
- 88.
See Moog et al. (2015), pp. 480–481.
- 89.
Cf. Chestnut (2013), p. 357.
- 90.
See FSC (2015d), pp. 10–44.
- 91.
Cf. Boström (2012), p. 11.
- 92.
Cramer et al. (2014), p. 124.
- 93.
See Ballet et al. (2014), p. 96.
- 94.
See Ballet et al. (2014), p. 97.
- 95.
See European Commission Recommendation 2013/179/EU on the use of common methods to measure and communicate the life cycle environmental performance of products and organizations, O.J. L 124/1-4 (2013).
- 96.
Again, the issue of available resources to labelling NGOs seems not to be sufficiently taken into account.
- 97.
See ILO (2016).
- 98.
Baccaro and Mele (2012), pp. 206–207 describe how the proposal of an ILO social label was considered, but failed within the ILO at the end of the 2000s.
- 99.
Cf. Baccaro and Mele (2012), p. 206.
- 100.
Cf. Bartley (2003), p. 450.
- 101.
Cf. Baccaro and Mele (2012), p. 206.
- 102.
- 103.
Specifically, inconsistent with Art. 2.1. TBT Agreement and Art. I:2 and II:4 GATT 1994 and not applied consistently with the chapeau of Art. XX GATT 1994.
- 104.
See WTO, United States — Measures Concerning the Importation, Marketing and Sale of Tuna and Tuna Products, Report of the Appellate Body, 20 Nov 2015, WT/DS381/AB/R.
- 105.
For a basic and comprehensive disquisition of the legal aspects under the WTO system in terms of state-sponsored social labelling schemes see Lopez-Hurtado (2002). Additional case law since then has to be considered though.
References
Akerlof G (1970) The market for “Lemons”: quality uncertainty and the market mechanism. Q J Econ 84(3):488–500
Baccaro L, Mele V (2012) Pathology of path dependency? The ILO and the challenge of new governance. Ind Labor Relat Rev 65(2):195–224
Ballet J, Bhukuth A, Carimentrand A (2014) Child labor and responsible consumers: from boycotts to social labels, illustrated by the Indian Hand-Knotted Carpet Industry. Bus Soc 53(1):71–104
Barkley Rosser J (2003) A Nobel prize for asymmetric information: the economic contributions of George Akerlof, Michael Spence and Josph Stiglitz. Rev Polit Econ 15(1):3–21
Bartley T (2003) Certifying forests and factories: states, social movements and the rise of private regulation in the apparel and forest product fields. Polit Soc 31:433–464
Bartley T (2007) Institutional emergence in an era of globalization: the rise of transnational private regulation of labor and environmental conditions. Am J Sociol 113(2):297–351
Boström M (2012) The problematic social dimension of sustainable development: the case of the Forest Stewardship Council. Int J Sustain Dev World Ecol 19(1):3–15
Chestnut B (2013) ‘Cherry’ trees or ‘Lemon’ trees: conflicts of interest in forest certification. Georgetown Int Environ Law Rev 25:341–366
Cramer C, Johnston D, Oya C, Sender J (2014) Fairtrade, employment and poverty reduction in Ethiopia and Uganda. SOAS, London
Davenport E, Low W (2012) The labour behind the (Fair Trade) label. Crit Perspect Int Bus 8(4):329–348
Diller J (1999) A social conscience in the global marketplace? Labour dimensions of codes of conduct, social labelling and investor initiatives. Int Labour Rev 138(2):99–129
Dragusanu R, Giovannucci D, Nunn N (2014) The economics of fair trade. J Econ Perspect 28(3):217–236
Dumas M (2013) Three misunderstandings about consumocratic labor law. Comp Labor Law Policy J 35(1):67–92
Fairtrade International (FI) (2007) Constitution of the association. https://www.fairtrade.net/fileadmin/user_upload/content/2009/about_us/documents/151014-Constitution-Fairtrade-International-EN.pdf. Accessed 15 Aug 2017
Fairtrade International (FI) (2015a) Monitoring the scope and benefits of Fairtrade, 7th edn. https://www.fairtrade.net/fileadmin/user_upload/content/2009/resources/2015-Monitoring_and_Impact_Report_web.pdf. Accessed 15 Aug 2017
Fairtrade International (FI) (2015b) Fairtrade standard for hired labour. https://www.fairtrade.net/fileadmin/user_upload/content/2011-12-29-HL_EN.pdf. Accessed 15 Ag 2017
FLO-CERT (2015) Application for Fairtrade certification - standard operating procedure. http://www.flocert.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/CERT-Application-SOP-15-en.pdf. Accessed 5 Mar 2016
FLO-CERT (2016) Certification - standard operating procedure. http://www.flocert.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/CERT-Certification-SOP-30-en.pdf. Accessed 5 Mar 2016
Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) (2015a) Statues. Available via DIALOG. https://ic.fsc.org/preview.fsc-statues.a-646.pdf. Accessed 5 Mar 2016
Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) (2015b) FSC principles and criteria for forest stewardship. https://ic.fsc.org/preview.fsc-principles-and-criteria-for-forest-stewardship-fsc-std-01-001-v5-2-enwebversion.a-4846.pdf. Accessed 5 Mar 2016
Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) (2015c) Report on the structure of the FSC certification system – version 2-1. https://ic.fsc.org/preview.report-on-the-structure-of-the-fsc-certification-system.a-5358.pdf. Accessed 5 Mar 2016
Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) (2015d) General requirements for FSC accredited certification bodies – version 4-0. https://ic.fsc.org/preview.fsc-std-20-001-v4-0-en-general-requirements-for-fsc-accredited-certification-bodies.a-5352.pdf. Accessed 5 Mar 2016
Freeman R (1994) A hard-headed look at labour standards. In: Sengenberger W, Campbell D (eds) International labour standards and economic interdependence. International Institute for Labour Studies, Geneva, pp 79–92
Golan E, Kuchler F, Mitchell L (2001) Economics of food labeling. J Consum Policy 24:117–184
GoodWeave International (GWI) (2009) RugMark introduces GoodWeave. http://www.goodweave.de/fileadmin/user_upload/pdfs/GoodWeave_Press_Release.pdf. Accessed 15 Aug 2017
GoodWeave International (GWI) (2013) GoodWeave Annual Report 2013: picturing an end to child labor. Available via DIALOG. https://goodweave.org/about/annual-reports/. Accessed 15 Aug 2017
GoodWeave International (GWI) (2016a) Generic international standard for rug producers v.3.0. Available via DIALOG. https://goodweave.org/proven-approach/standard/. Accessed 15 Aug 2017
GoodWeave International (GWI) (2016b) Licensing and Certification Policy v.1.2. http://comments.goodweave.org/wp-content/uploads/GWI-Licensing-and-Certification-Policy-v.1.2.pdf. Accessed 5 Mar 2016
Hartman K (2014) GMO labeling: a case of asymmetric information and the ‘Nudge’. Policy Perspect 21:48–59
Hicks R (2012) Product labeling, consumer willingness to pay, and the supply chain. In: Boone T, Jayaraman V, Ganeshan R (eds) Sustainable supply chains - models, methods, and public policy implications. Springer, New York, pp 165–174
ILO (International Labour Organization) (2016, January) Bangladesh - Improving working conditions in the ready made garment industry: progress and achievements. http://www.ilo.org/dhaka/Whatwedo/Projects/WCMS_240343/lang--en/index.htm. Accessed 5 Mar 2016
Löfgren KG, Persson T, Weibull J (2002) Markets with asymmetric information: the contributions of George Akerlof, Michael Spence and Joseph Stiglitz. Scand J Econ 104(2):195–211
Lopez-Hurtado C (2002) Social labelling and WTO law. J Int Econ Law 5(3):719–746
Marx A, Wouters J (2016) Redesigning enforcement in private labor regulation. Will it work? Int Labour Rev 155:435–459
Mizulin N, Zhu H (2015) Non-tariff barriers and private conduct: the case of labelling. In: Herman C (ed) European yearbook of international economic law. Springer, Berlin, pp 137–159
Moog S, Spicer A, Böhm S (2015) The politics of multi-stakeholder initiatives: the crisis of the Forest Stewardship Council. J Bus Ethics 128(3):469–493
Nooruddin I, Sokhey S (2012) Credible certification of child labor free production. In: Gourevitch P, Lake D, Gross Stein J (eds) The credibility of transnational NGOs - when virtue is not enough. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, pp 62–85
O’Rourke D (2003) Outsourcing regulation: analyzing nongovernmental system of labor standards and monitoring. Policy Stud J 31(1):1–29
Raynolds L (2014) Fairtrade, certification, and labor: global and local tensions in improving conditions for agricultural workers. Agric Hum Values 31(3):499–511
Seidman G (2009) Social labeling in export supply chains: can voluntary certification programs end child labor? http://casi.sas.upenn.edu/iit/seidman. Accessed 7 Dec 2015
Seidman G (2012) Regulation at work: globalization, labor rights, and development. Soc Res 79(4):1023–1044
Urminsky M (2001) Self-regulation in the workplace: codes of conduct, social labeling and socially responsible investment. ILO, Geneva
Vogel D (2008) Private global business regulation. Annu Rev Pol Sci 11:261–282
World Fair Trade Organization, Fairtrade International, FLO-Cert (2011) Fair trade glossary. https://www.fairtrade.net/fileadmin/user_upload/content/2009/about_fairtrade/2011-06-28_fair-trade-glossary_WFTO-FLO-FLOCERT.pdf. Accessed 15 Aug 2017
Zadek S, Lingayah S, Forstater M (1998) Social labels: tools for ethical trade. Report for the European Commission, New Economics Foundation. Cinnamon House, London
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2018 Springer International Publishing AG
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Aghazadeh, N. (2018). Promoting Labour Standards in Global Supply Chains Through Consumers’ Choice: Is Social Labelling Effective?. In: Gött, H. (eds) Labour Standards in International Economic Law. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-69447-4_17
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-69447-4_17
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-319-69446-7
Online ISBN: 978-3-319-69447-4
eBook Packages: Law and CriminologyLaw and Criminology (R0)