Skip to main content

Morpho-Sedimentary Dynamics of Mixed Sand and Gravel Coasts

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Morphodynamics of Mediterranean Mixed Sand and Gravel Coasts

Part of the book series: SpringerBriefs in Earth Sciences ((BRIEFSEARTH))

Abstract

This chapter addresses the changes in the morphology and sedimentology of a micro-tidal mixed sand and gravel beach (Playa Granada, southern Spain) forced by wave and water-level variations, and human intervention through nourishment. Monthly and storm event-driven beach surveys, consisting of topographical measurements and sediment sampling in two selected areas, were carried out over a one-year period. Three prevailing sediment fractions (sand, fine gravel and coarse gravel) and two end-member morphological states of the upper beach profile (convex with multiple berms and concave with a single storm berm) were identified. Between them, several transitional profiles were formed, characterized by developing berms that progressively overlapped, generating sediment variability both across the beach profile and with depth. The results indicate that the total run-up (including water-level) reached during an event represents a more accurate threshold for differentiating between erosional and depositional conditions than wave height. They also suggest that mixed sand and gravel beaches recover faster from storm erosion than sandy beaches. The long-term benefit of the artificial nourishment that took place at the end of the survey period was very limited and this is attributed to the too fine sediment used for the nourishment and its placement too high on the beach. Clearly, nourishment interventions must take into account the natural sediment distribution and the profile shape to avoid rapid losses of the nourished sediment.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 39.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 54.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  1. Bergillos, R.J., López-Ruiz, A., Ortega-Sánchez, M., Masselink, G., Losada, M.A.: Implications of delta retreat on wave propagation and longshore sediment transport—Guadalfeo case study (southern Spain). Mar. Geol. 382, 1–16 (2016)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  2. Bergillos, R.J., Ortega-Sánchez, M., Masselink, G., Losada, M.A.: Morpho-sedimentary dynamics of a micro-tidal mixed sand and gravel beach, Playa Granada, southern Spain. Mar. Geol. 379, 28–38 (2016)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  3. Bowden, K.F.: Physical Oceanography of Coastal Waters. Ellis Horwood Ltd, Chichester, England (1983)

    Google Scholar 

  4. Bramato, S., Ortega-Sánchez, M., Mans, C., Losada, M.A.: Natural recovery of a mixed sand and gravel beach after a sequence of a short duration storm and moderate sea states. J. Coast. Res. 28(1), 89–101 (2012)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  5. Dean, R.G., Dalrymple, R.A.: Coastal Processes with Engineering Applications. Cambridge University Press (2002)

    Google Scholar 

  6. Folk, R.L.: Petrology of Sedimentary Rocks. Hemphill Publishing Company, Austin, Texas (1980)

    Google Scholar 

  7. Holthuijsen, L.H., Booij, N., Ris, R.C.: A spectral wave model for the coastal zone. In: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, pp. 630-641. ASCE (1993)

    Google Scholar 

  8. Ivamy, M.C., Kench, P.S.: Hydrodynamics and morphological adjustment of a mixed sand and gravel beach, Torere, Bay of Plenty, New Zealand. Mar. Geol. 228(1), 137–152 (2006)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  9. Lee, G.h., Nicholls, R.J., Birkemeier, W.A.: Storm-driven variability of the beach-nearshore profile at Duck, North Carolina, USA, 1981–1991. Mar. Geol. 148(3), 163–177 (1998)

    Google Scholar 

  10. Lesser, G.R.: An approach to medium-term coastal morphological modelling. UNESCO-IHE, Institute for Water Education (2009)

    Google Scholar 

  11. Lesser, G.R., Roelvink, J.A., Jatm, V.K., Stelling, G.S.: Development and validation of a three-dimensional morphological model. Coast. Eng. 51(8), 883–915 (2004)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  12. Mason, T., Coates, T.T.: Sediment transport processes on mixed beaches: a review for shoreline management. J. Coast. Res. 17(3), 645–657 (2001)

    Google Scholar 

  13. Mason, T., Voulgaris, G., Simmonds, D.J., Collins, M.B.: Hydrodynamics and sediment transport on composite (Mixed Sand/Shingle) and sand beaches: a comparison. In: Coastal Dynamics, pp. 48–57. ASCE (1997)

    Google Scholar 

  14. Matias, A., Blenkinsopp, C.E., Masselink, G.: Detailed investigation of overwash on a gravel barrier. Mar. Geol. 350, 27–38 (2014)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  15. Matias, A., Masselink, G., Castelle, B., Blenkinsopp, C.E., Kroon, A.: Measurements of morphodynamic and hydrodynamic overwash processes in a large-scale wave flume. Coast. Eng. 113, 33–46 (2016)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  16. Matias, A., Masselink, G., Kroon, A., Blenkinsopp, C.E., Turner, I.L.: Overwash experiment on a sandy barrier. J. Coast. Res. 65, 778–783 (2013)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  17. Nielsen, P., Hanslow, D.J.: Wave runup distributions on natural beaches. J. Coast. Res. 7(4), 1139–1152 (1991)

    Google Scholar 

  18. Ortega-Sánchez, M., Lobo, F.J., López-Ruiz, A., Losada, M.A., Fernández-Salas, L.M.: The influence of shelf-indenting canyons and infralittoral prograding wedges on coastal morphology: the Carchuna system in Southern Spain. Mar. Geol. 347, 107–122 (2014)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  19. Scott, T., Masselink, G., O’Hare, T.A., Davidson, M., Russell, P.: Multi-annual sand and gravel beach response to storms in the southwest of England. In: Proceedings of the 8th Coastal Sediments (2015)

    Google Scholar 

  20. Sunamura, T., Takeda, I.: Landward migration of inner bars. Mar. Geol. 60(1), 63–78 (1984)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  21. Thom, B., Hall, W.: Behaviour of beach profiles during accretion and erosion dominated periods. Earth Surf. Proc. Land. 16(2), 113–127 (1991)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  22. Wentworth, C.K.: A scale of grade and class terms for clastic sediments. J. Geol. 30(5), 377–392 (1922)

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgements

This work was partially supported by the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness (Projects CTM2012-32439 and BIA2015-65598-P). The second author was funded by the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness (Research Contract BES-2013-062617 and Mobility Grant EEBB-I-15-10002). The authors are indebted to Gerd Masselink for his valuable suggestions and comments. We also thank Servicio Provincial de Costas (Granada, Spain) for providing information about the artificial replenishment of the beach and Miguel A. Reyes-Merlo for his support with the field surveys.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Miguel Ortega-Sánchez .

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2017 The Author(s)

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Ortega-Sánchez, M., Bergillos, R.J., López-Ruiz, A., Losada, M.A. (2017). Morpho-Sedimentary Dynamics of Mixed Sand and Gravel Coasts. In: Morphodynamics of Mediterranean Mixed Sand and Gravel Coasts. SpringerBriefs in Earth Sciences. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-52440-5_5

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics