Abstract
This chapter addresses the changes in the morphology and sedimentology of a micro-tidal mixed sand and gravel beach (Playa Granada, southern Spain) forced by wave and water-level variations, and human intervention through nourishment. Monthly and storm event-driven beach surveys, consisting of topographical measurements and sediment sampling in two selected areas, were carried out over a one-year period. Three prevailing sediment fractions (sand, fine gravel and coarse gravel) and two end-member morphological states of the upper beach profile (convex with multiple berms and concave with a single storm berm) were identified. Between them, several transitional profiles were formed, characterized by developing berms that progressively overlapped, generating sediment variability both across the beach profile and with depth. The results indicate that the total run-up (including water-level) reached during an event represents a more accurate threshold for differentiating between erosional and depositional conditions than wave height. They also suggest that mixed sand and gravel beaches recover faster from storm erosion than sandy beaches. The long-term benefit of the artificial nourishment that took place at the end of the survey period was very limited and this is attributed to the too fine sediment used for the nourishment and its placement too high on the beach. Clearly, nourishment interventions must take into account the natural sediment distribution and the profile shape to avoid rapid losses of the nourished sediment.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
References
Bergillos, R.J., López-Ruiz, A., Ortega-Sánchez, M., Masselink, G., Losada, M.A.: Implications of delta retreat on wave propagation and longshore sediment transport—Guadalfeo case study (southern Spain). Mar. Geol. 382, 1–16 (2016)
Bergillos, R.J., Ortega-Sánchez, M., Masselink, G., Losada, M.A.: Morpho-sedimentary dynamics of a micro-tidal mixed sand and gravel beach, Playa Granada, southern Spain. Mar. Geol. 379, 28–38 (2016)
Bowden, K.F.: Physical Oceanography of Coastal Waters. Ellis Horwood Ltd, Chichester, England (1983)
Bramato, S., Ortega-Sánchez, M., Mans, C., Losada, M.A.: Natural recovery of a mixed sand and gravel beach after a sequence of a short duration storm and moderate sea states. J. Coast. Res. 28(1), 89–101 (2012)
Dean, R.G., Dalrymple, R.A.: Coastal Processes with Engineering Applications. Cambridge University Press (2002)
Folk, R.L.: Petrology of Sedimentary Rocks. Hemphill Publishing Company, Austin, Texas (1980)
Holthuijsen, L.H., Booij, N., Ris, R.C.: A spectral wave model for the coastal zone. In: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, pp. 630-641. ASCE (1993)
Ivamy, M.C., Kench, P.S.: Hydrodynamics and morphological adjustment of a mixed sand and gravel beach, Torere, Bay of Plenty, New Zealand. Mar. Geol. 228(1), 137–152 (2006)
Lee, G.h., Nicholls, R.J., Birkemeier, W.A.: Storm-driven variability of the beach-nearshore profile at Duck, North Carolina, USA, 1981–1991. Mar. Geol. 148(3), 163–177 (1998)
Lesser, G.R.: An approach to medium-term coastal morphological modelling. UNESCO-IHE, Institute for Water Education (2009)
Lesser, G.R., Roelvink, J.A., Jatm, V.K., Stelling, G.S.: Development and validation of a three-dimensional morphological model. Coast. Eng. 51(8), 883–915 (2004)
Mason, T., Coates, T.T.: Sediment transport processes on mixed beaches: a review for shoreline management. J. Coast. Res. 17(3), 645–657 (2001)
Mason, T., Voulgaris, G., Simmonds, D.J., Collins, M.B.: Hydrodynamics and sediment transport on composite (Mixed Sand/Shingle) and sand beaches: a comparison. In: Coastal Dynamics, pp. 48–57. ASCE (1997)
Matias, A., Blenkinsopp, C.E., Masselink, G.: Detailed investigation of overwash on a gravel barrier. Mar. Geol. 350, 27–38 (2014)
Matias, A., Masselink, G., Castelle, B., Blenkinsopp, C.E., Kroon, A.: Measurements of morphodynamic and hydrodynamic overwash processes in a large-scale wave flume. Coast. Eng. 113, 33–46 (2016)
Matias, A., Masselink, G., Kroon, A., Blenkinsopp, C.E., Turner, I.L.: Overwash experiment on a sandy barrier. J. Coast. Res. 65, 778–783 (2013)
Nielsen, P., Hanslow, D.J.: Wave runup distributions on natural beaches. J. Coast. Res. 7(4), 1139–1152 (1991)
Ortega-Sánchez, M., Lobo, F.J., López-Ruiz, A., Losada, M.A., Fernández-Salas, L.M.: The influence of shelf-indenting canyons and infralittoral prograding wedges on coastal morphology: the Carchuna system in Southern Spain. Mar. Geol. 347, 107–122 (2014)
Scott, T., Masselink, G., O’Hare, T.A., Davidson, M., Russell, P.: Multi-annual sand and gravel beach response to storms in the southwest of England. In: Proceedings of the 8th Coastal Sediments (2015)
Sunamura, T., Takeda, I.: Landward migration of inner bars. Mar. Geol. 60(1), 63–78 (1984)
Thom, B., Hall, W.: Behaviour of beach profiles during accretion and erosion dominated periods. Earth Surf. Proc. Land. 16(2), 113–127 (1991)
Wentworth, C.K.: A scale of grade and class terms for clastic sediments. J. Geol. 30(5), 377–392 (1922)
Acknowledgements
This work was partially supported by the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness (Projects CTM2012-32439 and BIA2015-65598-P). The second author was funded by the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness (Research Contract BES-2013-062617 and Mobility Grant EEBB-I-15-10002). The authors are indebted to Gerd Masselink for his valuable suggestions and comments. We also thank Servicio Provincial de Costas (Granada, Spain) for providing information about the artificial replenishment of the beach and Miguel A. Reyes-Merlo for his support with the field surveys.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2017 The Author(s)
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Ortega-Sánchez, M., Bergillos, R.J., López-Ruiz, A., Losada, M.A. (2017). Morpho-Sedimentary Dynamics of Mixed Sand and Gravel Coasts. In: Morphodynamics of Mediterranean Mixed Sand and Gravel Coasts. SpringerBriefs in Earth Sciences. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-52440-5_5
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-52440-5_5
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-319-52439-9
Online ISBN: 978-3-319-52440-5
eBook Packages: Earth and Environmental ScienceEarth and Environmental Science (R0)