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Morphodynamics of Mediterranean Mixed Sand and Gravel Coasts pp 23–37Cite as

Importance of Nearshore Waves on Mixed Sand and Gravel Coasts

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Abstract

When waves propagate from deep water toward the coast, they modify their properties due to their interaction with the seabed. The Mediterranean basin is characterized by narrow and complex inner shelves that influence the properties of the nearshore waves. This chapter models the wave propagation patterns at the two study sites and highlights the importance of the role played by the inner shelves in the coastal hydrodynamics. A calibrated wave propagation numerical model is applied for that purpose. The results reveal the importance of the feedback process between the forcing (mainly nearshore waves) and the morphological response (changes in the bathymetry) in the evolution of these systems.

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References

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Acknowledgements

This work was partially supported by the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness (Projects CTM2012-32439 and BIA2015-65598-P). The second author was funded by the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness (Research Contract BES-2013-062617 and Mobility Grants EEBB-I-15-10002 and EEBB-I-16-11009). The authors are in indebted to Francisco J. Lobo and Gerd Masselink for their valuable suggestions and comments. We also thank Fátima Pereira for her support creating the bathymetric scenarios of Carchuna Beach and Cristóbal Rodríguez-Delgado for his assistance with the bathymetric data processing of Playa Granada.

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Andalusian Institute for Earth System Research, University of Granada, Granada, Spain

    Miguel Ortega-Sánchez, Rafael J. Bergillos & Miguel A. Losada

  2. Department of Aerospace Engineering and Fluid Mechanics, University of Seville, Seville, Spain

    Alejandro López-Ruiz

Authors
  1. Miguel Ortega-Sánchez
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  2. Rafael J. Bergillos
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  3. Alejandro López-Ruiz
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  4. Miguel A. Losada
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Correspondence to Miguel Ortega-Sánchez .

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Ortega-Sánchez, M., Bergillos, R.J., López-Ruiz, A., Losada, M.A. (2017). Importance of Nearshore Waves on Mixed Sand and Gravel Coasts. In: Morphodynamics of Mediterranean Mixed Sand and Gravel Coasts. SpringerBriefs in Earth Sciences. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-52440-5_3

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