Abstract
Coastal morphodynamics deal with the modification of the nearshore bottom topography shoreline shifting and beach morphology of the coastal areas through hydrodynamic, fluvial, aeolian and terrestrial processes. Nearshore ocean bottom morphological changes and consequence series of alteration dynamics are concerning the movement of sediment. To analyse the shoreline dynamics, we go over the changes in the recent positions of the shoreline of the Balasore coast for the 38 years from 1975 through 2013. Transects wise shoreline data base of Balasore coast, Odisha, India were developed for approximately 67 km of shoreline and erosional/accretional scenario has also been analysed by delineating the shoreline from Landsat imageries of 1975, 1980, 1990, 1995, 2000, 2005, 2010 and 2013. A simple linear regression model and End Point Rate (EPR) has been adopted to take out the rate of change of shoreline and its future positions based on empirical observations at 67 transects along the Balasore coast. The rate of shoreline movement calculated from the fixed base line to shoreline position of 1975, 1980, 1990, 1995, 2000, 2005 and 2010 were applied and based on this, the estimated shoreline of 2013 was calculated. The shoreline data were integrated for long- (about 17 years) and short-term (about 7 years) shift rates analysis to comprehend the shoreline change and prediction. For the prediction of future shoreline, the model has been validated with ‘t’ test followed by the comparison with present shoreline position (2013). Root Mean Square Error has also been implemented to distribute the model generated error among all transects. The present study also deals with beach morphodynamics using some numerical model. Firstly the wave propagation has been estimated by the help of Karkby and Dalrym model (1985). After analyzing the wave characteristic current characteristics can be assessed by the help of Navier and Slokes equation. After knowing the both wave and current characteristics sediment transport of near shore has been anticipated using Bailard and Soulsby model to detect the beach morphology because beach morphology is directly depends on near shore sediment dynamics.
This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution.
Buying options
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Learn about institutional subscriptionsReferences
Abbott, J., & Price, R. (1994). Coastal, estuarial and harbour engineers’ handbook. Chapman and Hall.
Bailard, J. A. (1984). A simplified model for longshore sediment transport. In Proceedings of the 19th Coastal Engineering Conference (pp. 1454–1470).
Battjes, J. A., & Janssen, J. P. F. M. (1978). Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves. In Proceedings of the 16th International Conference on Coastal Engineering (pp. 569–587). ASCE.
Birkemeier, W. A. (1994). The DUCK94 near shore field experiment—experiment overview. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station.
Booij, N. (1981). Gravity Waves on Water with Non-uniform Depth and Current. Ph.D. disc Tech. University of Delft, The Netherlands.
Coastal Research Group (GIOC). (1995–2003). The University of Cantabria.
Dally W. R., Dean, R. G., & Dalrymple, R. A. (1985). Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile. Journal of Geophysical Research, 90(6), 11917–11927.
De Vriend, H. J., Copabianco, M., Chesher, T., De Swart, H. D., Latteux, B., & Stive, M. J. F. (1993). Approaches to long-term modelling of coastal morphology: A review. Coastal Engineering, 21, 225–269.
Eliot, J., & Clarke, D. (1989). Temporal and spatial bias in the estimation of shoreline rate-of-change statistics from beach survey information. Coastal Management, 17, 129–156. doi:10.1080/08920758909362081.
Fenster, M., Dolan, R., & Elder, J. F. (1993). A new method for predicting shoreline positions from historical data. Journal of Coastal Research, 9, 147–171.
González, M., & Medina, R. (2000). On the application of static equilibrium bay formulations to natural and man-made beaches. Coastal Engineering. (submitted).
Goswami, A. B. (1964–1965). A systematic ground water investigation in parts of Bankura and Midnapore districts. West Bengal. Memograph progress report. Geological Survey.
Goswami, A. B. (1993). Review on quaternary geological mapping and standardization of scheme of classification for inter-basin regional correlation of quaternary landforms and geological units in East and Northeast India. Records Geological Survey of India, 121, 55–85. (21pt. 2–8 Calcutta).
Hsu, J. R. C., & Evans, C. (1989). Parabolic by shapes and applications. Proceedings Institution of Civil Engineers, 87, 557–570.
Kirby, J. T., & Dalrymple, R. A. (1985). Modifications to a propagation model for the combined refraction-diffraction of Stokes waves; shallow water, large angle and breaking wave effects. Report UFL/COEL-85/001. Coastal and Oceanographical Engineering Department. University of Florida. Gainesville.
Kirby, J. T., & Ozkan, H. T. (1994). Combined refraction/diffraction model for spectral wave conditions-REF/DIFS version 1.1, documentation and user’s manual. Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware. CACR report No. 94–04.
Kirby, J. T., & Dalrymple, R. A. (1983). The propagation of weakly nonlinear waves in the presence of varying depth and currents. In Proceedings of the XXth Congress I.A.H.R., Moscow.
Kirby, J. T. (1984). A note on linear surface wave-current interaction. Journal of Geophysical Research, 89, 745–747.
Li, R., Liu, J., & Felus, Y. (2001). Spatial modelling and analysis for shoreline change and coastal erosion monitoring. Marine Geodesy, 24, 1–12. doi:10.1080/01490410121502.
Liu, P. L.-F., & Mei, C. C. (1976). Water motion on a beach in the presence of a breakwater. 1. Waves. J. Geophys. Res., 81, 3079–3084.
Maiti, S., & Bhattacharya, A. (2009). Shoreline change analysis and its application to prediction: A remote sensing and statistics based approach. Marine Geology, 257, 11–23. doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2008.10.006.
Méndez, F. J., & Medina, R. (2001). A perturbation method for wave and wave-induced current computations in beach morphology models. In Proceedings of the Coastal Dynamics 2001. Lünd (Suecia). Enprensa.
Niyogi, D., & Chakraborty, A. (1973) Applied geomorphology along Digha beach, Midnapore district. W.B. In Proceedings of Seminar on Geomorphological Studies in India (pp. 205–210). Sagar.
Niyogi, D. (1970). Quaternary geology and geomorphology of the Kharagpur-Digha area W.B. Guide book for the field trips; Section of Geology and Geography. In 57th Session of Indian Science Congress (pp. 1–18). Kharagpur.
Paine, J. G., & Morton, R. A. (1989). Shoreline and Vegetation Line Movement, Texas Gulf Coast 1974 to 1982. The University of Texas at Austin, Bureau of Economic and Geology and Geological Circular, 89–1, 50.
Philips, J. D. (1991). Nonlinear dynamical systems in geomorphology: Revolution or evolution? Geomorphology, 5, 219–229. (This article comfirms the applicability of nonlinear dynamical systems theory to the study of landforms.).
Ryu, J., Won, J., & Min, K. (2002). Waterline extraction from Landsat TM data in a tidal flat: a case study in Gosmo Bay, Korea. Remote Sensing of Environment, 83, 442–456. doi:10.1016/S0034-4257(02)00059-7.
Short, A. D. (1996). The role of wave height, period, slope, tide range and embaymentisation in beach classifications: A review. J. Revista Chilena de Historia Natural, 69, 589–604.
Silvester, R. (1960). Stabilization of sedimentary coastlines. Nature, 188, 467–469.
Soulsby, R. (1997). Dynamics of Marine Sands. London: Thomas Telford.
Thornton, E. B., & Guza, R. T. (1983). Transformation of wave height distribution. Journal of Geophysical Research, 88(CIO), 5925–5938.
Virginia Institute of Marine Science- Scopus 460.
Waldrop, M. (1992). Complexcity: The emerging science and the edge of order and chaos. London: Simon and Schuster/Penguin.
Watanabe, A., Hara, T., & Horikawa, K. (1984). Study on breaking condition for compound wave trains. Coastal Engineering in Japan, 27, 71–82.
Wright, L. D., & Short, A. D. (1984). Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis. Journal of Marine Geology, 56, 93–118.
Wright, L. D., & Thorm, B. G. (1977). Coastal depositional landforms: A morphodynamic approach. Progress in Physical Geography, 1(3), 412–459.
Yasso, W. E. (1965). Plan geometry of headland bay beaches. The Journal of Geology, 73, 702–714.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2016 The Author(s)
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Barman, N.K., Chatterjee, S., Paul, A.K. (2016). Materials and Methods: A Framework for the Coastal Morphodynamics. In: Coastal Morphodynamics. SpringerBriefs in Geography. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-33575-9_3
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-33575-9_3
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-319-33574-2
Online ISBN: 978-3-319-33575-9
eBook Packages: Earth and Environmental ScienceEarth and Environmental Science (R0)