Skip to main content

Cosmetics and Personal Care Products

  • Chapter
  • First Online:

Abstract

Cosmetic and personal care products are complex mixtures intended to be applied to the external parts of the human body. In the long list of ingredients are included polymers which are either natural or synthetic. This chapter presents the main natural polymers used in cosmetics which are mainly polysaccharides and proteins obtained from vegetable, animal and biotechnology origins. The use of artificial polymers is discussed through the example of cellulose derivatives which are widely used for their physicochemical properties and cosmetic benefits. Natural polymers in cosmetics play many distinct roles; they can be chosen either to improve the stability of colloidal systems, to control the rheological properties from manufacturing to end-user or to achieve the sensory expectation and efficiency of the product during application. Natural polymers are thus multifunctional ingredients used in many different commodities sometimes alone, but more often in combination with synthetic polymers as illustrated through different examples including hair care, skin care or toothpaste products. Natural polymers own a growing place in the cosmetic field and this can be attributed to the ever increasing desire for “naturality”. Their applicability in this field is further enhanced by their processibility and the multiple options possible to control properties through their chemical modifications.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution.

Buying options

Chapter
USD   29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD   84.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD   109.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD   159.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Learn about institutional subscriptions

References

  • Aben S, Holtze C, Tadros T, Schurtenberger P (2012) Rheological investigations on the creaming of depletion-flocculated emulsions. Langmuir 28:7967–7975

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Abrutyn ES (2010) Polymers in personal care. Cosmet Toiletries Mag 125(7):48–52

    Google Scholar 

  • Asad R (2011) Applications for sustainable cellulose derivatives in personal care. Happiness. http://shows.happi.com/articles/2011/06/applications-for-sustainable-cellulose-derivatives

  • Bais D, Trevisan A, Lapasin R, Partal P, Gallegos C (2005) Rheological characterization of polysaccharide-surfactant matrices for cosmetic O/W emulsions. Colloids Interface Sci 290:546–556

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Barnes HA (1994) Rheology of emulsions—a review. Colloids Surfaces A: Physicochemical Eng Aspects 91:89–95

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Bolduc C, Shapiro J (2001) Hair care products: waving, straightening, conditioning, and coloring. Clin Dermatol 19(4):431–436

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Bourguignon LY, Wong G, Xia W, Man MQ, Holleran WM, Elias PM (2013) Selective matrix (hyaluronan) interaction with CD44 and RhoGTPase signaling promotes keratinocyte functions and overcomes age-related epidermal dysfunction. J Dermatol Sci 72(1):32–44

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Bouyer E, Mekhloufi G, Rosilio V, Grossiord J-L, Agnely F (2012) Proteins, polysaccharides, and their complexes used as stabilizers for emulsions: alternatives to synthetic surfactants in the pharmaceutical field? Int J Pharm 436:359–378

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Bradley E, Griffiths C, Sherratt M, Bell M, Watson R (2015) Over-the-counter ant-ageing topical agents and their ability to protect and repair photoaged skin. Maturitas. doi:10.1016/j.maturitas.2014.12.019

    Google Scholar 

  • Brummer R, Godersky S (1999) Rheological studies to objectify sensations occurring when cosmetic emulsions are applied to the skin. Colloids Surf A 152:89–94

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Bureiko A, Trybala A, Kovalchuk N, Starov V (2014) Current applications of foams formed from mixed surfactant-polymer solutions. Adv Colloid Interface Sci. doi:10.1016/j.cis.2014.10.001

    Google Scholar 

  • Capron I, Cathala B (2013) Surfactant-free high internal phase emulsions stabilized by cellulose nanocrystals. Biomacromolecules 14:291–296

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Civille GV, Dus CA (1991) Evaluating tactile properties of skincare products: a descriptive analysis technique. Cosmetics Toiletries 106:83–88

    Google Scholar 

  • Cosmetic Products (2013) Europa summaries of EU legislation. Available from http://europa.eu/legislation_summaries/consumers/product_labelling_and_packaging/co0013_en.htm. Accessed 15 Mar 2015

  • Cosmetics and U.S. Law (2005) FDA. Available from http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/GuidanceRegulation/LawsRegulations/ucm2005209.htm. Accessed 15 Mar 2015

  • Delbarre-Ladrat C, Sinquin C, Lebellenger L, Zykwinska A, Colliec-Jouault S (2014) Exopolysaccharides produced by marine bacteria and their applications as glycosaminoglycan-like molecules. Frontiers Chem 2(85):1–15

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Dimuzio AM, Abrutyn ES, Cantwell MY (2005) Correlating sensory perception to the rheological parameters of emulsions: a predictive model for the future product development? J Cosmet Sci 56:356–358

    Google Scholar 

  • Finore I, Di Donato P, Mastascusa V, Nicolaus B, Poli A (2014) Fermentation technologies for the optimization of marine microbial exopolysaccharide production. Marine Drugs 12:3005–3024

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Gesslein B (1999) Humectants in personal care formulation :a practical guide (95–109). In: Scheller R, Romanowski P (ed) Conditioning agents for hair and skin. Cosmetic science and technology series, vol 21, Marcel Dekker, Inc. New York

    Google Scholar 

  • Gilbert L (2012) Caractérisation physico-chimique et sensorielle d’ingrédients cosmétiques: une approche méthodologique. PhD Thesis, Université du Havre, France

    Google Scholar 

  • Gilbert L, Loisel V, Savary G, Grisel M, Picard C (2013c) Stretching properties of xanthan, carob, modified guarand celluloses in cosmetic emulsions. Carbohydr Polym 93:644–650

    Google Scholar 

  • Gilbert L, Picard C, Savary G, Grisel M (2012) Impact of polymers on texture properties of cosmetic emulsions: a methodological approach. J Sens Stud 27(5):392–402

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Gilbert L, Picard C, Savary G, Grisel M (2013a) Rheological and textural characterization of cosmetic emulsions containing natural and synthetic polymers: relationship between both data. Colloids Surfaces A: Physicochemical Eng Aspects 421:150–163

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Gilbert L, Savary G, Grisel M, Picard C (2013b) Predicting sensory texture properties of cosmetic emulsions by physical measurements. Chemometr Intell Lab Syst 124:21–31

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Goddard ED (1999) Polymer/surfactant interaction in applied systems. In: Goddard ED, Gruber JV (eds) Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetics and personal care. Cosmetic science and technology series, vol 22. Marcel Dekker, pp 181–215

    Google Scholar 

  • Gruber JV (1999) Polysaccharide-based polymers in cosmetics. In: In: Goddard ED, Gruber JV (ed) Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetics and personal care. Cosmetic science and technology series, vol 22. Marcel Dekker, pp 339–403

    Google Scholar 

  • Hoshowski MA (1997) Conditioning of hair, chapter 4. In: Johnson DH (ed) Hair and hair care. Cosmetic science and technology series, vol 17. Marcel Dekker

    Google Scholar 

  • INIC Nomenclature Conventions (2015) Available from https://inci.personalcarecouncil.org/inci-app/html/INCINomenclatureConventions.pdf. Accessed 30 Mar 2015

  • Jamshidian M, Savary G, Grisel M, Picard C (2014) Stretching properties of xanthan and hydroxypropyl guar in aqueous solutions and in cosmetic emulsions. Carbohydr Polym 112:334–341

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Jachowicz J, Smewing J (2008) Texture analysis to quantify skin care product efficacy. Cosmet Toiletries 123:69–72

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Krstonosic V, Dokic L, Dokic P, Dapcevic T (2009) Effects of xanthan gum on physicochemical properties and stability of corn oil-in-water emulsions stabilized by polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitanmonooleate. Food Hydrocolloids 23:2212–2218

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Krstonosic V, Dokic L, Nikolic I, Milanovic M (2015) Influence of xanthan gum on oil-in-water characteristics stabilized by OSA starch. Food Hydrocolloids 45:9–17

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Llamas S, Guzman E, Ortega F, Baghdadli N, Cazeneuve C, Rubio RG, Luengo GS (2014) Adsorption of polyelectrolytes and polyelectrolytes-surfactant mixture at surfaces: a physico-chemical approach to a cosmetic challenge. Adv Colloid Interface Sci. doi:10.1016/j.cis.2014.05.007

    Google Scholar 

  • Lee I-S, Yang H-M, Kim J-W, Maeng Y-J, Lee C-W, Kang Y-S, Rang M-J, Kim H-Y (2005) Terminology development and panel training for sensory evaluation of skin care products including aqua cream. J Sens Stud 20:421–433

    Google Scholar 

  • Le Flacon (2015) La composition des produits cosmétiques. Available from: leflacon.free.fr. Accessed 15 Mar 2015

    Google Scholar 

  • Liang Y, Gillies G, Patel H, Matia-Merino L, Ye A, Golding M (2014) Physical stability, microstructure and rheology of sodium-caseinate-stabilized emulsions as influenced by protein concentration and non-adsorbing polysaccharides. Food Hydrocolloids 36:245–255

    Google Scholar 

  • Lindman B, Carlsson A, Gerdes S, Karlström G, Piculell L, Thalberg K, Zhang K (1993) In: Walstra P, Dickinson E (eds) Food colloids and polymers: stability and mechanical properties. RSC, Cambridge

    Google Scholar 

  • Lochhead RY, Gruber JV (1999) Appendix: Encyclopedia of Polymers and Thickeners for Cosmetics. In: Goddard ED, Gruber JV (ed) Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetics and personal care. Cosmetic science and technology series, vol 22. Marcel Dekker, pp 584–667

    Google Scholar 

  • Lochhead RY (2010) A review of recent advances in the polymeric delivery of attributes in cosmetics and personal care products. In: Morgan S et al (ed) Polymeric delivery of therapeutics. ACS symposium series. ACS

    Google Scholar 

  • Lochhead RY (2007) The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics: Recent Trends, in Cosmetic Nanotechnology, Morgan, S., ACS Symposium Series, Vol. 961. Washington, Chapter 1:3–56

    Google Scholar 

  • Lochhead RY (2012) Shampoo and conditioner science. In Practical Modern Hair Science, Trefor Evans and R. Randall Wickett, Allured books, 2012, ISBN-13: 9781932633931

    Google Scholar 

  • Lorencini M., Brohem C., Dieamant G., Zanchin N. and Maibach H. (2014) Active ingredients against human epidermal aging. AgeingResearch Reviews, 15, 100–115

    Google Scholar 

  • Lukic M, Jaksic I, Krstonosic V, Cekic N, Savic S (2012a) A combined approach in characterization of an effective W/O hand cream: the influence of emollient on textural, sensorial and in vivo skin performance. Int J Cosmet Sci 34:140–149

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Lukic M, Jaksic I, Krstonosic V, Dokic L, Savic S (2012b) Effect of small change in oil phase composition on rheological and textural properties of W/O emulsion. Journal of Texture Studies 44(1):34–44

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Making Cosmetics, 2015. Available from: <http://www.makingcosmetics.com/>. [15 March 2015]

  • Marku D, Wahlgren M, Rayner M, Sjöö M, Timgren A (2012) Characterization of starch Pickering emulsions for potential applications in topical formulations. InternationalJournal of Pharmaceutics 428:1–7

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Mostefa NM, Sadok AH, Sabri N, Hadji A (2006) Determination of optimal cream formulation from long-term stability investigation using a surface response modelling. Int J Cosmet Sci 28:211–218

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Neudahl G (1999) Proteins for conditioning hair and skin, in Conditioning agents for hair and skin, edited by Randy Scheller and Perry Romanowski, Cosmetic Science and Technology Series, vol 21. Marcel Dekker, Inc., New-york, pp 139–166

    Google Scholar 

  • Official Journal of the European Union, 2009.22.12.2009, L 342/59

    Google Scholar 

  • Personal Care Formulas (2006) Second edition. Allured Publishing Corporation, Carol Stream, USA, Cosmetics & Toiletries

    Google Scholar 

  • Personal Care Products Council, 2015. Available from: <http://www.personalcarecouncil.org/>. [15 March 2015]

  • Priyadardshani I, Rath B (2012) Commercial and industrial applications of micro-algae—A review. J Algal Biomass Utilization 3(4):89–100

    Google Scholar 

  • Review expert panel, The 2009 Cosmetic Ingredient review expert panel, Final Report of the Cosmetic ingredient, Amended Safety Assessment of Cellulose and Related Polymers as used in Cosmetics, March 23, 2009

    Google Scholar 

  • Rinaudo M (2006) Chitin and chitosan: properties and applications. Prog Polym Sci 31:603–632

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Roso A, Brinet R (2004) Rheology and texture analysis used together to improve raw material choices. Cosmet Toiletries 119:53–60

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Roy A, Comesse S, Grisel M, Hucher N, Souguir Z, Renou F (2014) Hydrophobically modified xanthan: an amphiphilic but not associative polymer. Biomacromolecules 15(4):1160–1170

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Rozanska S, Broniarz-Press L, Rosanski J, Mitkowski PT, Ochowiak M, Woziwodzki S (2013) Extensional viscosity of w/o emulsions stabilized by polysaccharides measured on the opposed-nozzle device. Food Hydrocolloids 32:130–142

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Smewing J, Jachowicz J (2007) Texture analysis to select packaging and formulate hair care products. Cosmet Toiletries 122:107–112

    Google Scholar 

  • Sun W, Sun D, Wei Y, Liu S, Zhang S (2007) Oil-in-water emulsions stabilized by hydrophobically modified hydroxyethyl cellulose: adsorption and thickening effect. J Colloid Interface Sci 311:228–236

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Tadros TF (2008) Colloid aspects of cosmetic formulations with particular reference to polymeric surfactants. In: Tadros TF (ed) Colloids in cosmetics and personal care, colloids and interface science series, vol 4. Wiley

    Google Scholar 

  • Tadros TF (2004) Application of rheology for assessment and prediction of the long-term physical stability of emulsions. Adv Colloid Interface Sci 108–109:227–258

    Google Scholar 

  • Teglia A, Secchi G (1999) Proteins in cosmetics. In: Goddard ED, Gruber JV (eds) Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetic and personal care, cosmetic science and technology series, vol 22. Marcel Dekker

    Google Scholar 

  • Thoorens G, Krier F, Leclercq B, Carlin B, Evrard B (2014) Microcrystalline cellulose, a direct compression binder in a quality by design environment—A review. Int J Pharm 473:64–72

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Tranchant J-F, Poulin A, Grossiord J-L (2001) Des crèmes au vernis à ongles. In: Comprendre la rhéologie: de la circulation du sang à la prise du béton. EDP Sciences. ISBN 2-86883-546-5

    Google Scholar 

  • Van Bogaert I, De Maeseneire S, Vandamme E (2009) Extracellular polysaccharides produced by yeasts and yeast-like fungi. In: Satyanarayana T, Kunze G (eds) Yeast biotechnology: diversity and applications. Springer, pp 651–672

    Google Scholar 

  • Veeruraj A, Arumugam M, Balasubramanian T (2013) Isolation and characterization of thermostable collagen from the marine eel-fish (Evenchelysmacrura). Process Biochem 48:1592–1602

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Vianna-Filho RP, Petkowickz CLO, Silveira JLM (2013) Rheological characterization of O/W emulsions incorporated with neutral and charged polysaccharides. Carbohydr Polym 93:266–272

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Wang H-M, Chen C-C, Huynh P, Chang J-S (2014) Exploring the potential of using algae in cosmetics. Bioressour Technol. doi:10.1016/j.biortech.2014.12.001

    Google Scholar 

  • Winnick FM (1999) Elements of polymer science. In: Goddard ED, Gruber JV (eds) Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetic and personal care, cosmetic science and technology series, vol 22. Marcel Dekker

    Google Scholar 

  • Wong M (1997) Chapter 3: cleansing of hair. In: Johnson DH (ed) Hair and hair care, cosmetic science and technology series, vol 17. Marcel Dekker

    Google Scholar 

  • Ye A, Hemar Y, Singh H (2004) Enhancement of coalescence by xanthan addition to oil-in-water emulsions formed with extensively hydrolysed whey proteins. Food Hydrocolloids 18:737–746

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Zecher D, Gerrish T (1999) Cellulose derivatives in thickening and gelling agents for food, 2nd edn. Edited by Ian Imeson, Aspen Publication

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Géraldine Savary .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2016 Springer International Publishing Switzerland

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Savary, G., Grisel, M., Picard, C. (2016). Cosmetics and Personal Care Products. In: Olatunji, O. (eds) Natural Polymers. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-26414-1_8

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics