Skip to main content

Translation(s) of Circular Fashion: Production or Consumption?

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Sustainable Consumption and Production, Volume II
  • 2139 Accesses

Abstract

This chapter delves into the translation of the Circular Economy in the Swedish fashion industry, to what is increasingly becoming known as Circular Fashion. A literature overview of these concepts highlights that the concepts have primarily been developed by practitioners. Further, the chapter identifies a number of important actors in the translation of Circular Fashion in the Swedish fashion industry: companies, government, and NGOs. Corporate reports and social media, government proposals and enquiries as well as NGO reports are reviewed in order to elucidate how circular economy and its practices are translated by these different actors. It is found that fashion MNCs predominantly translate production aspects in relation to Circular Economy, whereas SMEs to a greater extent appear to stress consumption aspects. New market actors providing sharing or consumer-to-consumer services tend to translate circularity as prolonged product life, without addressing the need for shifting and reducing consumption practices. Government actors focus on the coupling between Swedish industry competitiveness and Circular Fashion, emphasizing the importance of circularity in designer and post-purchase practices. NGOs instead emphasize the importance of both reducing consumption as well as improving production practices. These varying foci highlight the selective nature of adaptations and simultaneous translations occurring of Circular Fashion. Particularly, production aspects that contribute to the dual goals of legitimacy and profitability dominate. Consumption aspects of care and repair, as well as of reduction are rarely emphasized and uphold a linear system deemed obsolete. Thereby, Circular Fashion has not yet been institutionalized.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Subscribe and save

Springer+ Basic
EUR 32.99 /Month
  • Get 10 units per month
  • Download Article/Chapter or Ebook
  • 1 Unit = 1 Article or 1 Chapter
  • Cancel anytime
Subscribe now

Buy Now

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 109.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 139.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 139.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  • Abernathy, F. H., Dunlop, J. T., Hammond, J. H., & Weil, D. (1999). A stitch in time: Lean retailing and the transformation of manufacturing—Lessons from the apparel and textile industries. New York: Oxford University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Ashby, A. (2018). Developing closed loop supply chains for environmental sustainability: Insights from a UK clothing case study. Journal of Manufacturing Technology Management, 29(4), 699–722.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Axfoundation. (2020a). Cirkulär ekonomi. https://www.axfoundation.se/program/cirkular-ekonomi/. Accessed 20 January 2020.

  • Axfoundation. (2020b). Filippa K Circle. https://www.axfoundation.se/projekt/filippa-k-circle/. Accessed 20 January 2020.

  • Axfoundation (2020c). Materialåtervinning av polyester. https://www.axfoundation.se/projekt/materialatervinning-av-polyester/. Accessed 20 January 2020.

  • Axfoundation. (2020d). Textilåtervinning på Åhléns. https://www.axfoundation.se/projekt/textilatervinning-pa-ahlens/. Accessed 20 January 2020.

  • Becker-Leifhold, C., & Iran, S. (2018). Collaborative fashion consumption—Drivers, barriers and future pathways. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 22(2), 189–208.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Birtwistle, G., & Moore, C. M. (2007). Fashion clothing—Where does it all end up? International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 35(3), 210–216.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Blomsma, F., & Brennan, G. (2017). The emergence of circular economy: A new framing around prolonging resource productivity. Journal of Industrial Ecology, 21(3), 603–614.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bocken, N. M., De Pauw, I., Bakker, C., & van der Grinten, B. (2016). Product design and business model strategies for a circular economy. Journal of Industrial and Production Engineering, 33(5), 308–320.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bocken, N. M., Farracho, M., Bosworth, R., & Kemp, R. (2014). The front-end of eco-innovation for eco-innovative small and medium sized companies. Journal of Engineering and Technology Management, 31, 43–57.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Borrello, M., Caracciolo, F., Lombardi, A., Pascucci, S., & Cembalo, L. (2017). Consumers’ perspective on circular economy strategy for reducing food waste. Sustainability, 9(1), 141.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Boström, M., & Micheletti, M. (2016). Introducing the sustainability challenge of textiles and clothing. Journal of Consumer Policy, 39(4), 367–375.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Camacho-Otero, J., Boks, C., & Pettersen, I. N. (2018). Consumption in the circular economy: A literature review. Sustainability, 10(8), 2758.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cao, H., Chang, R., Kallal, J., Manalo, G., McCord, J., Shaw, J., et al. (2014). Adaptable apparel: A sustainable design solution for excess apparel consumption problem. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 18(1), 52–69.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Caro, F., & Martínez-de-Albéniz, V. (2015). Fast fashion: Business model overview and research opportunities. In N. Agrawal & S. A. Smith (Eds.), Retail supply chain management (pp. 237–264). Boston, MA: Springer.

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Ceschin, F. (2014). Product-service system innovation: A promising approach to sustainability. In F. Ceschin (Ed.), Sustainable product-service systems (pp. 17–40). Cham, Switzerland: Springer.

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Chen, H. L., & Burns, L. D. (2006). Environmental analysis of textile products. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24(3), 248–261.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Choi, T. M., Lo, C. K., Wong, C. W., Yee, R. W., & Ho, H. P. Y. (2012). A Five-R analysis for sustainable fashion supply chain management in Hong Kong: A case analysis. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 16, 161–175.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • CIRAIG. (International Reference Centre for the Life Cycle of Products, Processes and Services). (2015). Circular economy: A critical literature review of concepts. Canada: Polytechnique Montréal.

    Google Scholar 

  • Corvellec, H., & Stål, H. I. (2019). Qualification as corporate activism: How Swedish apparel retailers attach circular fashion qualities to take-back systems. Scandinavian Journal of Management, 35(3), 1–9.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cullen, J. M. (2017). Circular economy: Theoretical benchmark or perpetual motion machine? Journal of Industrial Ecology, 21(3), 483–486.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Curwen, L. G., Park, J., & Sarkar, A. K. (2013). Challenges and solutions of sustainable apparel product development: A case study of Eileen Fisher. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 31(1), 32–47.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Czarniawska, B., & Joerges, B. (1996). Travels of ideas. In B. Czarniawska & G. Sevón (Eds.), Translating organisational change (pp. 13–47). Berlin: de Gruyter.

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Czarniawska, B. & Sevón, G. (1996). Translating organisational change. Berlin: Walter de Gruyter.

    Google Scholar 

  • Dahlbo, H., Aalto, K., Eskelinen, H., & Salmenperä, H. (2017). Increasing textile circulation—Consequences and requirements. Sustainable Production and Consumption, 9, 44–57.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Demyttenaere, K., Dewit, I., & Jacoby, A. (2016). The influence of ownership on the sustainable use of product-service systems: A literature review. Procedia Cirp, 47, 180–185.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • DiMaggio, P. J., & Powell, W. W. (1983). The iron cage revisited: Institutional isomorphism and collective rationality in organizational fields. American Sociological Review, 48(2), 147–160.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • EC. (2008). Directive 2008/98/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 19 November 2008 on waste and repealing certain Directives. Official Journal of the European Union L, 312(3). http://data.europa.eu/eli/dir/2008/98/oj/. Accessed 20 January 2020.

  • EC. (2012). European Commission Report. Ecodesign your future—How eco design can help the environment by making products smarter. http://ec.europa.eu/DocsRoom/documents/5187/attachments/1/translations/en/renditions/native. Accessed 15 March 2020.

  • EC. (2015). European Commission Action Plan. Closing the loop: An EU action plan for the circular economy. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:52015DC0614. Accessed 15 March 2020.

  • EC. (2018). European Commission. Circular economy package. https://ec.europa.eu/commission/publications/documents-strategy-plastics-circular-economy_en/. Accessed 15 March 2020.

  • Egels-Zandén, N. (2017). The role of SMEs in global production networks: A Swedish SME’s payment of living wages at its Indian supplier. Business & Society, 56(1), 92–129.

    Google Scholar 

  • Ekström, K. M., & Salomonson, N. (2014). Reuse and recycling of clothing and textiles—A network approach. Journal of Macromarketing, 34(3), 383–399.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Elander, M., & Ljungkvist, H. (2016). Critical aspects in design for fiber-to-fiber recycling of textiles. Mistra Future Fashion Report 2016:1. Accessed 4 February 2020.

    Google Scholar 

  • Elia, V., Gnoni, M. G., & Tornese, F. (2017). Measuring circular economy strategies through index methods: A critical analysis. Journal of Cleaner Production, 142, 2741–2751.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • EMF. (2013). Report. Towards the circular economy—Economic and business rationale for an accelerated transition. Ellen MacArthur Foundation. https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/publications/Ellen-MacArthur-Foundation-Towards-the-Circular-Economy-vol.1.pdf/. Accessed 19 October 2019.

  • EMF. (2015a). Report. Delivering the circular economy—A toolkit for policymakers. Ellen MacArthur Foundation. https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/publications/EllenMacArthurFoundation_PolicymakerToolkit.pdf/. Accessed 19 October 2019.

  • EMF. (2015b). Report. Growth within: A circular economy vision for a competitive Europe. Ellen MacArthur Foundation. https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/ assets/downloads/publications/EllenMacArthurFoundation_Growth-Within_July15.pdf/. Accessed 12 December 2019.

  • EMF. (2017). Report. A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future. Ellen MacArthur Foundation. https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications/a-new-textiles-economy-redesigning-fashions-future/. Accessed 10 January 2020.

  • Elander, M., Tojo, N., Tekie, H., & Hennlock, M. (2017). Impact assessment of policies promoting fiber-to-fiber recycling of textiles. Mistra Future Fashion Report, 3. Accessed 13 February 2020.

    Google Scholar 

  • Evans, S., Vladimirova, D., Holgado, G., van Fossen, K., Yang, M., Silva, E. A., et al. (2017). Business model innovation for sustainability: Towards a unified perspective for creation of sustainable business models. Business Strategy and the Environment, 26(5), 597–608.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • EY. (2015). Are you ready for the circular economy? The necessity of an integrated approach. http://kgk.uni-obuda.hu/sites/default/files/EY-brochure-cas-are-you-ready-for-the-circular-economy.pdf/.

  • Filippa K. (2018). Sustainability Report. https://www.filippa-k.com/globalassets/filippa-k-sustainability-report_2018_updated.pdf?ref=93A5B9A359/. Accessed 20 January 2020.

  • Filippa K. (2019). Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/filippa_k/. Accessed 20 January 2020.

  • Fletcher, K. (2014). Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design journeys. London: Taylor & Francis Ltd.

    Google Scholar 

  • Fuchs, L. (2016). Circular economy approaches for the apparel industry (PhD dissertation). Universität St. Gallen. Switzerland.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gam, H. J., Cao, H., Farr, C., & Heine, L. (2009). C2CAD: A sustainable apparel design and production model. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 21(4), 166–179.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Gallaud, D., & Laperche, B. (2016). Circular economy, industrial ecology and short supply chain (Vol. 4). London: Wiley.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Gartner. (2016). Market share analysis: Consulting services, worldwide. https://www.gartner.com/doc/3317117/market-share-analysis-consulting-services/.

  • Geissdoerfer, M., Savaget, P., Bocken, N., & Hultink, E. (2017). The circular economy—A new sustainability paradigm? Journal of Cleaner Production, 143(1), 757–768.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Geissdoerfer, M., Morioka, S. N., de Carvalho, M. M., & Evans, S. (2018). Business models and supply chains for the circular economy. Journal of Cleaner Production, 190, 712–721.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Geng, Y., & Doberstein, B. (2008). Developing the circular economy in China: Challenges and opportunities for achieving ‘leapfrog development’. The International Journal of Sustainable Development & World Ecology, 15(3), 231–239.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Gereffi, G. (1999). International trade and industrial upgrading in the apparel commodity chain. Journal of International Economics, 48(1), 37–70.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ghisellini, P., Cialani, C., & Ulgiati, S. (2016). A review on circular economy: The expected transition to a balanced interplay of environmental and economic systems. Journal of Cleaner Production, 114, 11–32.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Gina Tricot. (2019). Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/ginatricot/. Accessed 22 January 2020.

  • Gina Tricot. (2018). Sustainability Report. https://www.ginatricot.com/cms/work/sustainability/policys/hållbarhetsredovisning_april_2018_webb.pdf/. Accessed 22 January 2020.

  • Goldsworthy, K. (2014). Design for cyclability: Pro-active approaches for maximising material recovery. Making Futures, 3, 1–12.

    Google Scholar 

  • Govindan, K., Soleimani, H., & Kannan, D. (2015). Reverse logistics and closed-loop supply chain: A comprehensive review to explore the future. European Journal of Operational Research, 240(3), 603–626.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Granello, S., Jönbrink, A. K., Roos, S., Johansson, T., & Granberg, H. (2015). Consumer behaviour on washing. Mistra Future Fashion Report D4:5. Accessed 13 February 2020.

    Google Scholar 

  • Guide, J. V., & Van Wassenhove, L. N. (2002). The reverse supply chain. Harvard Business Review, 80(2), 25–26.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gwozdz, W., Steensen Nielsen, K., & Müller, T. (2017). An environmental perspective on clothing consumption: Consumer segments and their behavioral patterns. Sustainability, 9(5), 762–789.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hannon, E., Kuhlmann, M., & Thaidigsmann, B. (2016). Developing products for a circular economy. The Circular economy: Moving from theory to practice, 22–25. http://www.mckinsey.com/business-functions/sustainability-and-resource-productivity/our-insights/developing-products-for-a-circular-economy/. Accessed 10 January 2020.

  • Haupt, M., & Hellweg, S. (2019). Measuring the environmental sustainability of a circular economy. Environmental and Sustainability Indicators, 1–2, 100005.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Harris, F., Roby, H., & Dibb, S. (2016). Sustainable clothing: Challenges, barriers and interventions for encouraging more sustainable consumer behaviour. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 40(3), 309–318.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Henninger, C. E., Alevizou, P. J., & Oates, C. J. (2016). What is sustainable fashion? Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 20(4), 400–416.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hestin, M., Chanoine, A., & Menten, F. (2016). Circular economy potential for climate change mitigation. https://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/fi/Documents/risk/Circular%20economy%20FINAL%20web.pdf/. Accessed 10 January 2020.

  • HM. (2019). Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/hm/. Accessed 19 January 2020.

  • HM. (2018). Sustainability Report. https://sustainability.hm.com/content/dam/hm/about/documents/en/CSR/2018_sustainability_report/HM_Group_SustainabilityReport_2018_%20FullReport_en.pdf/. Accessed 19 January 2020.

  • HM. (2017). Successful method found for recycling blend textiles into new fibres. https://about.hm.com/sv_se/news/general-2017/Successful-method-found-for-recycling-blend-textiles-into-new-fibres.html/. Accessed 16 March 2020.

  • Hustvedt, G., & Dickson, M. A. (2009). Consumer likelihood of purchasing organic cotton apparel. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 13(1), 49–65.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hyber. (2019). Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/hyber.sverige/. Accessed 27 January 2020.

  • Imaz, M., & Sheinbaum, C. (2017). Science and technology in the framework of the sustainable development goals. World Journal of Science, Technology and Sustainable Development, 14(1), 2–17.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • James, A. M., & Montgomery, B. (2017). Connectivity, understanding and empathy: How a lack of consumer knowledge of the fashion supply chain is influencing socially responsible fashion purchasing. In S. Muthu (Ed.), Textiles and clothing sustainability (pp. 61–95). Singapore: Springer.

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • James, A. M., Reitsma, L., & Aftab, M. (2019). Bridging the double-gap in circularity. Addressing the intention-behaviour disparity in fashion. The Design Journal, 22(sup1): 901–914.

    Google Scholar 

  • Joung, H. M. (2013). Materialism and clothing post-purchase behaviors. Journal of Consumer Marketing, 30(6), 530–537.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Joung, H. M., & Park-Poaps, H. (2013). Factors motivating and influencing clothing disposal behaviours. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 37(1), 105–111.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Jutterström, M., & Norberg, P. (2013). CSR as a management idea. Cheltenham: Edward Elgar.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Hvass, K. K. (2016). Weaving a path from waste to value: Exploring fashion industry business models and the circular economy (PhD dissertation). Copenhagen Business School. Denmark.

    Google Scholar 

  • Hvass, K. K. (2014). Post-retail responsibility of garments—A fashion industry perspective. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 18(4), 413–430.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kappahl. 2019. Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/kappahl/. Accessed 21 January 2020.

  • Kappahl, (2018). Sustainability Report. https://www.kappahl.com/en-US/about-kappahl/sustainability/responsible-fashion/sustainability-report/. Accessed 21 January 2020.

  • Kirchherr, J., Reike, D., & Hekkert, M. (2017). Conceptualizing the circular economy: An analysis of 114 definitions. Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 127, 221–232.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Khurana, K., & Ricchetti, M. (2016). Two decades of sustainable supply chain management in the fashion business, an appraisal. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 20(1), 89–104.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kiørboe, N. (2015). Moving towards a circular economy: Successful Nordic Business Models—Policy Brief. Nordic Council of Ministers.

    Google Scholar 

  • Korhonen, J., Honkasalo, A., & Seppälä, J. (2018). Circular economy: The concept and its limitations. Ecological Economics, 143, 37–46.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kozlowski, A., Bardecki, M., & Searcy, C. (2012). Environmental impacts in the fashion industry: A life-cycle and stakeholder framework. Journal of Corporate Citizenship, 45(Spring), 17–36.

    Google Scholar 

  • Krikke, H., Blanc, I. L., & van de Velde, S. (2004). Product modularity and the design of closed-loop supply chains. California Management Review, 46(2), 23–39.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Lacy, P., Keeble, J., McNamara, R., Rutqvist, J., Haglund, T., Buddemeier, P., …Pettersson, C. (2014). Accenture Report. Circular advantage: Innovative business models and technologies to create value in a world without limits to growth. Accent. Strateg. 24. https://www.accenture.com/t20150523T053139__w__/us-en/_acnmedia/Accenture/Conversion-Assets/DotCom/Documents/Global/PDF/Strategy_6/Accenture-Circular-Advantage-Innovative-Business-Models-Technologies-Value-Growth.pdf/. Accessed 10 January 2020.

  • Laitala, K., & Klepp, I. G. (2015). Clothing disposal habits and consequences for life cycle assessment (LCA). In S. Muthu (Ed.), Handbook of life cycle assessment (LCA) of textiles and clothing (pp. 345–363). Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing.

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Laitala, K. (2014). Consumers’ clothing disposal behaviour—A synthesis of research results. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38(5), 444–457.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Laitala, K. M., Boks, C., & Klepp, I. G. (2015). Making clothing last: A design approach for reducing the environmental impacts. International Journal of Design, 9(2), 93–107.

    Google Scholar 

  • LeBlanc, R. (2019). Textile and garment recycling facts and figures. http://www.thebalancesmb.com/textile-recycling-facts-and-figures-2878122/. Accessed 24 November 2019.

  • Lernborg, C. M. (2019). Organising responsibility in the Swedish Fashion Market. PhD dissertation: Stockholm School of Economics. Sweden.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lewandowski, M. (2016). Designing the business models for circular economy—Towards the conceptual framework. Sustainability, 8(1), 43.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Lieder, M., & Rashid, A. (2016). Towards circular economy implementation: A comprehensive review in context of manufacturing industry. Journal of Cleaner Production, 115, 36–51.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Lindex. (2018). Sustainability Report. https://about.lindex.com/files/documents/lindex-sustainability-report-2018.pdf/. Accessed 22 January 2020.

  • Lindex. (2019). Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/lindexofficial/. Accessed 22 January 2020.

  • Lopez, C., & Fan, Y. (2009). Internationalisation of the Spanish fashion brand Zara. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 13(2), 279–296.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Masoudipour, E., Amirian, H., & Sahraeian, R. (2017). A novel closed-loop supply chain based on the quality of returned products. Journal of Cleaner Production, 151, 344–355.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • McDonough, W., & Braungart, M. (2002). Design for the triple top line: New tools for sustainable commerce. Corporate Environmental Strategy, 9(3), 251–258.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • McDonough, W., & Braungart‚ M. (2009). Cradle to cradle: Remaking the way we make things. London: Vintage.

    Google Scholar 

  • Mendoza, J. M. F., Sharmina, M., Gallego-Schmid, A., Heyes, G., & Azapagic, A. (2017). Integrating backcasting and eco-design for the circular economy: The BECE framework. Journal of Industrial Ecology, 21(3), 526–544.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Merli, R., Preziosi, M., & Acampora, A. (2018). How do scholars approach the circular economy? A systematic literature review. Journal of Cleaner Production, 178, 703–722.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Meyer, J. W. (1996). Otherhood: The promulgation and transmission of ideas in the modern organizational environment. In B. Czarniawska & G. Sevón (Eds.), Translating organizational change (pp. 241–272). Berlin: de Gruyter.

    Google Scholar 

  • Meyer, J. W., & Rowan, B. (1977). Institutionalized organizations: Formal structure as myth and ceremony. American Journal of Sociology, 83(2), 340–363.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Mistra Future Fashion. (2019). Sustainable Fashion. http://mistrafuturefashion.com/sustainable-fashion/. Accessed 10 January 2020.

  • Moorhouse, D., & Moorhouse, D. (2017). Sustainable design: Circular economy in fashion and textiles. The Design Journal, 20(sup1), S1948–S1959.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Morgan, L. R., & Birtwistle, G. (2009). An investigation of young fashion consumers’ disposal habits. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 33(2), 190–198.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Moreau, V., Sahakian, M., Van Griethuysen, P., & Vuille, F. (2017). Coming full circle: Why social and institutional dimensions matter for the circular economy. Journal of Industrial Ecology, 21(3), 497–506.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Murray, A., Skene, K., & Haynes, K. (2017). The circular economy: An interdisciplinary exploration of the concept and application in a global context. Journal of Business Ethics, 140(3), 369–380.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Muthu, S. S. (Ed.). (2015). Handbook of life cycle assessment (LCA) of textiles and clothing. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing.

    Google Scholar 

  • Nasr, N., Russell, J., Bringezu, S., Hellweg, S., Hilton, B., Kreiss, C., & Von Gries, N. (2018). Report. Re-defining value: The manufacturing revolution-remanufacturing, refurbishment, repair and direct reuse in the circular economy. IRP Reports.

    Google Scholar 

  • Niinimäki, K. (2018). Sustainable fashion in a circular economy. Aalto University. https://aaltodoc2.org.aalto.fi/bitstream/handle/123456789/36608/isbn9789526000909.pdf/.

  • Niinimäki, K. (2010). Eco-clothing, consumer identity and ideology. Sustainable Development, 18(3), 150–162.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Niinimäki, K. (2006). Ecodesign and textiles. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 10(3), 67–75.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Niinimäki, K., & Karell, E. (2020). Closing the loop: Intentional fashion design defined by recycling technologies. In Technology-driven sustainability (pp. 7–25). Cham: Palgrave Macmillan.

    Google Scholar 

  • Norum, P. S. (2017). Towards sustainable clothing disposition: Exploring the consumer choice to use trash as a disposal option. Sustainability, 9(7), 1187.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Nudie Jeans. (2018). Sustainability Report. https://cdn.nudiejeans.com/media/files/Nudie-Jeans-Sustainability-Report_2018.pdf/. Accessed 24 January 2020.

  • Nudie Jeans. (2019). Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/nudiejeans/. Accessed 24 January 2020.

  • Nußholz, J. L. (2017). Circular business models: Defining a concept and framing an emerging research field. Sustainability, 9(10), 1810.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Öberseder, M., Schlegelmilch, B. B., Murphy, P. E., & Gruber, V. (2014). Consumers’ perceptions of corporate social responsibility: Scale development and validation. Journal of Business Ethics, 124(1), 101–115.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pal, R., Shen, B., & Sandberg, E. (2019). Circular fashion supply chain management: Exploring impediments and prescribing future research agenda. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 23(3), 298–307.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pedersen, E. R. G., & Netter, S. (2015). Collaborative consumption: Business model opportunities and barriers for fashion libraries. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 19(3), 258–273.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Remy, N., Speelman, E., & Swartz, S. (2016). Style that’s sustainable: A new fast-fashion formula. McKinsey & Company, 1–6. Accessed 24 November 2019.

    Google Scholar 

  • Repo, P., & Anttonen, M. (2017). Emerging consumer perspectives on circular economy. In The 13th Nordic Environmental Social Science Conference HopefulNESS https://www.researchgate.net/publication/317596538_Emerging_consumer_perspectives_on_circular_economy.

  • Roos, S., Sandin, G., Zamani, B., & Peters, G. (2015). Report. Environmental assessment of Swedish fashion consumption. Five garments—Sustainable futures. Mistra Future Fashion D2: 6.

    Google Scholar 

  • Roos, S., Zamani, B., Sandin, G., Peters, G. M., & Svanström, M. (2016). A life cycle assessment (LCA)-based approach to guiding an industry sector towards sustainability: The case of the Swedish apparel sector. Journal of Cleaner Production, 133, 691–700.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Roos, S. (2016). Advancing life cycle assessment of textile products to include textile chemicals. Inventory data and toxicity impact assessment (PhD dissertation). Chalmers University of Technology. Sweden.

    Google Scholar 

  • Røpke, I. (2009). Theories of practice—New inspiration for ecological economic studies on consumption. Ecological Economics, 68(10), 2490–2497.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Røvik, K. A. (2000). Moderna organisationer: Trender inom organisationstänkandet vid millennieskiftet. Liber.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sandin, G., Roos, S., Spak, B., Zamani, B., & Peters, G. (2019a). Environmental assessment of swedish clothing consumption—Six garments, sustainable futures. Mistra Future Fashion Report 2019:05. Accessed 13 February 2020.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sahlin-Andersson, K., & Engwall, L. (2002). The expansion of management knowledge: Carriers, flows, and sources. Stanford: Stanford University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sandin, G., & Peters, G. M. (2018). Environmental impact of textile reuse and recycling—A review. Journal of Cleaner Production, 184, 353–365.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Sakao, T. (2009). Introduction to product/service-system design. London: Springer-Verlag.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Seidman, D. (2007). How: Why how we do anything means everything. Hoboken: Wiley.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sandberg, E., Pal, R., & Hemilä, J. (2018). Exploring value creation and appropriation in the reverse clothing supply chain. The International Journal of Logistics Management, 29(1), 90–109.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Sandin, G., Roos, S., & Johansson, M. (2019). Environmental impact of textile fibers—What we know and what we don’t know: Fiber Bible part 2. Mistra Future Fashion Report 2019:03 Part II. Accessed 13 February 2020.

    Google Scholar 

  • Schmidt, A., Watson, D., Roos, S., Askham, C., & Brunn Poulsen, P. (2016). Report. Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of different treatments for discarded textiles. Denmark: PlanMiljo.

    Google Scholar 

  • Schroeder, P., Anggraeni, K., & Weber, U. (2019). The relevance of circular economy practices to the sustainable development goals. Journal of Industrial Ecology, 23(1), 77–95.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Schut, E., Crielaard, M., & Mesman, M. (2016).Circular economy in the Dutch construction sector: A perspective for the market and government. https://rivm.openrepository.com/bitstream/handle/10029/595297/2016-0024.pdf/.

  • Sellpy. (2019). Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/sellpy/. Accessed 22 January 2020.

  • Sendlhofer, T. (2019). Decoupling from moral responsibility for CSR: Employees’ Visionary Procrastination at a SME. Journal of Business Ethics, 1–18.

    Google Scholar 

  • Seuring, S. (2004). Integrated chain management and supply chain management comparative analysis and illustrative cases. Journal of Cleaner Production, 12(8–10), 1059–1071.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Stål, H. I., & Corvellec, H. (2018). A decoupling perspective on circular business model implementation: Illustrations from Swedish apparel. Journal of Cleaner Production, 171, 630–643.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Stål, H. I., & Jansson, J. (2017). Sustainable consumption and value propositions: Exploring product—Service system practices among Swedish fashion firms. Sustainable Development, 25(6), 546–558.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Su, B., Heshmati, A., Geng, Y., & Yu, X. (2013). A review of the circular economy in China: Moving from rhetoric to implementation. Journal of Cleaner Production, 42, 215–227.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • SSNC. (2018). Fact sheet circular economy. https://www.naturskyddsforeningen.se/cirkular-ekonomi?noredirect=true/. Accessed 20 January 2020.

  • Swedish Government. (2016). Proposal. Förslag om Hantering av textilier Redovisning av regeringsuppdrag. https://www.naturvardsverket.se/upload/miljoarbete-i-samhallet/miljoarbete-i-sverige/regeringsuppdrag/2016/redovisade/redovisning-regeringsuppdrag-hantering-textilier-2016-09-26.pdf/. Accessed 20 January 2020.

  • Swedish Government. (2017). SOU 2017:22: Från Värdekedja till Värdecykel: Så får Sverige en mer Cirkulär Ekonomi. Stockholm: Wolters Kluwers Offentliga Publikationer. https://www.regeringen.se/rattsliga-dokument/statens-offentliga-utredningar/2017/03/sou-201722/. Accessed 20 January 2020.

  • Swedish Government. (2018). Action Plan Agenda 2030. https://www.regeringen.se/49e20a/contentassets/60a67ba0ec8a4f27b04cc4098fa6f9fa/handlingsplan-agenda-2030.pdf/. Accessed 20 January 2020.

  • Sweet, S., Aflaki, R., & Stalder, M. (2019). The Swedish market for pre-owned apparel and its role in moving the fashion industry towards more sustainable practices. Mistra Future Fashion Report 2019:01. Accessed 13 February 2020.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sweet, S., & Wu, A. (2019). Second-hand and leasing of clothing to facilitate textile reuse. Mistra Future Fashion Report 2019:13. Accessed 13 February 2020.

    Google Scholar 

  • Tise. (2019). Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/tise.se/. Accessed 23 January 2020.

  • Tukker, A. (2004). Eight types of product—Service system: Eight ways to sustainability? Experiences from SusProNet. Business Strategy and the Environment, 13(4), 246–260.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Tukker, A. (2015). Product services for a resource-efficient and circular economy—A review. Journal of Cleaner Production, 97, 76–91.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Urbinati, A., Chiaroni, D., & Chiesa, V. (2017). Towards a new taxonomy of circular economy business models. Journal of Cleaner Production, 168, 487–498.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Vadicherla, T., & Saravanan, D. (2014). Textiles and apparel development using recycled and reclaimed fibers. In S. Muthu (Ed.), Roadmap to sustainable textiles and clothing (pp. 139–160). Hong Kong: Springer.

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Van Weelden, E., Mugge, R., & Bakker, C. (2016). Paving the way towards circular consumption: Exploring consumer acceptance of refurbished mobile phones in the Dutch market. Journal of Cleaner Production, 113, 743–754.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Vehmas, K., Raudaskoski, A., Heikkilä, P., Harlin, A., & Mensonen, A. (2018). Consumer attitudes and communication in circular fashion. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 22(3), 286–300.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Wang, Y., Hazen, B. T., & Mollenkopf, D. A. (2018). Consumer value considerations and adoption of remanufactured products in closed-loop supply chains. Industrial Management & Data Systems, 118(2), 480–498.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Watson, D., Gylling, A. C., & Thörn, P. (2017). Business models extending active lifetime of garments: Supporting policy instruments. Mistra Future Fashion 2017:7. Accessed 13 February 2020.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wedlin, L., & Sahlin, K. (2017). The imitation and translation of management ideas. In R. Greenwood, C. Oliver, T. B. Lawrence, & R. E. Meyer (Eds.), The Sage handbook of organizational institutionalism (pp. 102–127). Singapore: Sage.

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Widgren, M., & Sakao, T. (2016). Unanswered questions in conceptual design towards circular economy. In DS 84: Proceedings of the DESIGN 2016 14th International Design Conference: 571–578.

    Google Scholar 

  • Witjes, S., & Lozano, R. (2016). Towards a more circular economy: Proposing a framework linking sustainable public procurement and sustainable business models. Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 112, 37–44.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Yang, S., Song, Y., & Tong, S. (2017). Sustainable retailing in the fashion industry: A systematic literature review. Sustainability, 9(7), 1266.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Yuan, Z., Bi, J., & Moriguichi, Y. (2006). The circular economy: A new development strategy in China. Journal of Industrial Ecology, 10(1–2), 4–8.

    Google Scholar 

  • Zacher, L. W. (2017). Technology, society and sustainability: Selected concepts, issues and cases. Cham: Springer International.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Zeng, X., & Rabenasolo, B. (2013). Developing a sustainable textile/clothing supply chain by selecting relevant materials and suppliers. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 17(2), 101–114.

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2021 The Author(s)

About this chapter

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this chapter

Lernborg, C. (2021). Translation(s) of Circular Fashion: Production or Consumption?. In: Bali Swain, R., Sweet, S. (eds) Sustainable Consumption and Production, Volume II. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-55285-5_10

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-55285-5_10

  • Published:

  • Publisher Name: Palgrave Macmillan, Cham

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-030-55284-8

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-030-55285-5

  • eBook Packages: Economics and FinanceEconomics and Finance (R0)

Publish with us

Policies and ethics