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Printing with Sustainable Natural Dyes and Pigments

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Sustainability in the Textile and Apparel Industries

Abstract

Natural dyes and pigments could be obtained from insects, plants, and animals. Natural dyes have been utilized in the dyeing of wool, cotton, and silk since the prehistoric ages. The first applications of natural dyes on textile fibers are estimated to have started in Mesopotamia and India in 4000 BC. In these first dyeing trials, it is thought that pigments were used for dyeing process and these pigments could be easily removed from fabrics by friction and washing because of their weak mechanical bonding onto the fibers, and therefore, dyeing process was not really successful. It is thought that mordant dyeing method may have been accidentally discovered. In many countries, such as India, Egypt, Anatolia, and China, many historical natural dyed fabrics were found. One of the first synthetic dyes, mauveine (also known as aniline purple), was accidentally synthesized by W.H. Perkin (at the age of 18) in 1856 during attempts to make quinine. The discovery of the first synthetic dye changed the natural dyeing habits and synthetic dyes replaced almost all natural dyes. However, it is known that the wastewater produced in the production steps of synthetic dyes and the chemicals used in the textile dyeing process can have toxic and pollutant effects on human and environmental health. Nowadays, the effects of environmental awareness, organic products, and the tendency toward healthy lifestyle also reflect on the textile sector. Disagreements on the risks of the usage of synthetic dyestuffs and increasing environmental awareness result in an enhanced interest in natural resources, environmentally friendly products, and new strategies. That is one of the reasons why the use of natural dyes came back to the agenda due to an increased ecological and sustainable awareness. Unlike non-renewable raw materials of synthetic dyes, natural dyes are mostly renewable and sustainable. Natural dye sources are agriculturally renewable sustainable vegetable-plant-based colorant sources. In terms of sustainability, synthetic dyes are produced from non-renewable resources; however, natural dyes are extracted from renewable sources. The ability to obtain the dye from renewable natural sources makes natural dyes an attractive dye class for more sustainable world. Natural dyes can be applied on the fibers not only with dyeing method but also with printing method. Textile printing is one of the most important and versatile methods among the methods used to design and colorize textile fabrics. Ancient men and women mixed the colorants such as coal or soil paint with oils and used them with their fingers in lines on various materials. The staining of the plant extracts and fabrics has provided different approaches. The patterns can be produced by the wax applications to provide resistant dye liquor, or the surrounding areas provide a tightly attached and reserved area. The word of print is referred to a process that uses pressure to impart colorant to the material. And there is no doubt that the first textile printing was occurred by the blocks with embossed printing surfaces, then these blocks were inked and printed on the fabric. Some of the first blocks were made of clay or terracotta, while others were made of carved wood. In this chapter, the information about various eco-friendly prints and different printing techniques which were applied to different kinds of fibers and fabrics using sustainable natural dyes and natural pigments are given in detail.

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Research and Development Centre, Ozanteks Textile Company, Denizli, Turkey

    Fatma Filiz Yıldırım

  2. Textile Engineering Department, Engineering Faculty, Pamukkale University, Denizli, Turkey

    Arzu Yavas & Ozan Avinc

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  1. Fatma Filiz Yıldırım
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  2. Arzu Yavas
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  3. Ozan Avinc
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  1. Head of Sustainability, SgT and API, Hong Kong

    Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu

  2. Centro de Estudios para el Lujo Sustentable, Buenos Aires, Argentina

    Miguel Angel Gardetti

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Yıldırım, F.F., Yavas, A., Avinc, O. (2020). Printing with Sustainable Natural Dyes and Pigments. In: Muthu, S., Gardetti, M. (eds) Sustainability in the Textile and Apparel Industries . Sustainable Textiles: Production, Processing, Manufacturing & Chemistry. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-38545-3_1

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