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Catering Crisis in Edwardian England

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Abstract

Of the six catering companies relying primarily on working- and middle-class custom examined in this chapter, only the Express Dairy Company avoided internal upheaval in Edwardian England. Boards of Directors at Ye Mecca, Lockharts, Slaters, the ABC and the BTT in turn confronted disgruntled committees of inspection in the years 1904–1909 and 1915. Each company had similar problems—declining profits, dividends and gross sales, together with un-remunerative shops. Three of them—Ye Mecca, Express Dairy and Slaters—had periods of missed dividends, while Slaters and two others (ABC and Lockharts) had plummeting share values. Whether the companies had set aside reserves or declared some or no goodwill matter not at all in terms of long-term financial health. What mattered most in restoring a company to stability were skills of the general manager, as Arthur Pearce demonstrated at Lockharts.

Serious economic woes among catering firms in Edwardian England provoked directors to assert greater control over management. ABC, Slaters and Lockharts—three of the largest firms—eliminated the position of managing director, substituting instead a general manager. This liberated the chairmen and Boards of Directors to pursue policies independently of another rival source of authority and potential criticism as well as conflict. In focusing on organisational structure rather than expertise, managerial skills, experience and talent, the Boards of Directors were in many ways seeking a scapegoat to placate unhappy shareholders. These difficult years required imaginative, tenacious, shrewd and insightful leaders with wide practical experience. Such men were in short supply, except in the Pearce clan. As distinguished clan leader, John Pearce grasped fully those traits necessary for leadership.

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Notes

  1. 1.

    Financial Times, 18 June 1908 and 15 Aug. 1914; Temperance Caterer, 15 Sept. 1914; Morning Post, 16 May 1907.

  2. 2.

    A.E. Dingle, “Drink and Working-Class Living Standards in Britain, 1870–1914,” Economic History Review 25 (1972): 608–22.

  3. 3.

    Interview with Horace Pearce, Morning Leader, 3 Sept. 1910.

  4. 4.

    Financial Times, 21 June 1905; Economist, 27 May 1899.

  5. 5.

    Daily Telegraph, 20 Nov. 1900; Financial Times, 14 March 1905; Temperance Caterer, 15 Apr. 1905.

  6. 6.

    “Gold in the Tea-Cup,” Daily Mail, 9 Nov. 1904; Financial Times, 7 Dec. 1909; Economist, 27 May 1899, 19 May 1900 and 1 Jan. 1910.

  7. 7.

    Annual Report, Express Dairy, Museum of English Rural Life, TR EXP/5/2, 1902, p. 2; Financial Times, 25 May 1899, 17 Nov. 1904, and 24 Nov. 1906.

  8. 8.

    Michael Ball and David Sunderland, An Economic History of London, 1800–1914 (London: Routledge, 2001), pp. 251–53; Temperance Caterer, 15 Feb. 1904.

  9. 9.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 Feb. 1904 and 15 Jan. 1909; “Gold in the Tea-Cup”; Financial Times, 17 Nov. 1904 and 24 Nov. 1906. Both the Express Dairy Co. and Ye Mecca had £100,000 of issued stock.

  10. 10.

    Economist, 7 Apr. 1906; J. Lyons & Co., London Metropolitan Archives, J. Lyons first Annual Report, 1895, Acc. 3527/2.

  11. 11.

    Peter Bird, The First Food Empire: A History of J. Lyons & Co. (Chichester: Phillimore, 2000), p. 42, Appendix 4, pp. 348–50; Robert Leon, “Rise and Fall of the Aerated Bread Company,” Camden History Review 25 (2001): 48.

  12. 12.

    Compiled from Bird, Lyons, Appendix 6.

  13. 13.

    D.J. Richardson, “J. Lyons & Co. Ltd.: Caterers and Food Manufacturers, 1894 to 1939,” in Derek Oddy and Derek Miller (eds.), The Making of the Modern British Diet (London: Croom Helm, 1973), p. 164.

  14. 14.

    Bird, Lyons, p. 40; Richardson, “Lyons,” pp. 165, 168.

  15. 15.

    For discussion of how this concept emerged in brewing in Britain and other industries abroad, see David W. Gutzke, Pubs and Progressives: Reinventing the Public House in England, 1896–1960 (DeKalb: Northern Illinois University Press, 2006), pp. 187, 190–93; John A. Jakle and Keith A. Sculle, The Gas Station in America (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1994), pp. 18–47; Philip Langdon, Orange Roofs, Golden Arches: The Architecture of American Chain Restaurants (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1986), Chaps. 2–3; Temperance Caterer, 15 Apr. 1895.

  16. 16.

    Bird, Lyons, p. 38.

  17. 17.

    Gluckstein quoted in ibid.

  18. 18.

    Of the Express Dairy Company’s early history, little is known. As a small concern in the Strand in the 1870s, Nell Gwynn’s Dairy began providing customers with a glass of milk during the morning. Over time they and others came to regard this as a well-established custom, particularly when the company supplemented this with a currant bun as a prelude to serving sandwiches and cakes. Thus, evolved the Express Dairy’s involvement with light lunches (“History of the Express Dairy Co.,” Museum of English Rural Life, Univ. of Reading, Express Dairy Company TR EXP/5/9, [n.d.], p.4).

  19. 19.

    Bryan Morgan, Express Journey, 1864–1964: A Centenary History of the Express Dairy Company Limited (London: Newman Neame, 1964), pp. 33, 40, 43, 138–39; John Burnett, England Eats Out: A Social History of Eating Out in England from 1830 to the Present (London: Pearson Longman, 2004), p. 120; Annual Reports, Express Dairy Company, Museum of English Rural Life, Univ. of Reading: 1887 Annual Report, TR EXP/5/2, p. 2; 1911 Annual Report, 1911, TR EXP/5/2, and 1913 Annual Report, TR EXP/5/3; Pure Food: The Record of a Great Public Service (n.p., [1929]), p. 11, TR EXP/5/9).

  20. 20.

    Financial Times, 5 Apr. 1909; Express Dairy Company Annual Reports, 1911 and 1912, TR EXP/5/2-3.

  21. 21.

    Financial Times, 17 and 19 Aug. 1898; Temperance Caterer, 15 March 1902.

  22. 22.

    Financial Times, 21 Feb. and 17 Aug. 1898; Temperance Caterer, 15 March 1906.

  23. 23.

    See above pp. 110–11.

  24. 24.

    Financial Times, 23 and 25 Aug. 1906.

  25. 25.

    I am grateful to Trevor Lloyd for this point.

  26. 26.

    Financial Times, 3 Dec. 1908, 24 Feb. 1909, and 23 Feb. and 4 March 1911.

  27. 27.

    Ibid., 23 Feb. 1911 and 12 March 1913.

  28. 28.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 March 1913; Financial Times, 28 Feb. and 4 March 1914.

  29. 29.

    Financial Times, 10 and 18 June 1908.

  30. 30.

    Edinburgh Evening News, 17 June 1897; Economist, 21 May 1898, and 26–27 May 1899.

  31. 31.

    Financial Times, 28 Jan. 1905; Temperance Caterer, 15 June 1901, and 15 March and June 1902.

  32. 32.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 May 1900. Lockharts later reconstructed a depot on City Road, where it built a separate room for young women (Temperance Caterer, 15 Nov. 1905).

  33. 33.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 June 1901, 15 Feb. 1905, and 15 July 1911; Report of the Investigative Committee, Financial Times, 28 Jan. 1905.

  34. 34.

    Financial Times, 30 May 1902 and 5 June 1907; Temperance Chronicle, 15 June 1902 and 15 July 1908.

  35. 35.

    Financial Times, 5 June 1907.

  36. 36.

    Report of the Investigative Committee, Financial Times, 25 May and 1 June 1904.

  37. 37.

    Financial Times, 1 June 1904, and 28 Jan. 1905.

  38. 38.

    Ibid., 1 June 1904 and 13 June 1907.

  39. 39.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 Oct. 1905, 15 June 1906 and 15 July 1911; Financial Times, 13 June 1907; Daily Mail, 2 Oct. 1912.

  40. 40.

    Financial Times, 5 June 1907.

  41. 41.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 Apr. 1913.

  42. 42.

    Financial Times, 5 June 1907 and 18 June 1908; Temperance Caterer, 15 June 1906, 15 July 1908 and 15 Jan. 1910. Two years earlier, Cabins likewise reduced its capital from £100,000 to £62,348 (Times, 19 Oct. 1912).

  43. 43.

    Financial Times, 27 Sept. 1909; Temperance Caterer, 15 July 1910 and 15 July 1911.

  44. 44.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 July 1911 and 15 Apr. 1913; Financial Times, 8 June 1911.

  45. 45.

    I want to thank Trevor Lloyd for this observation.

  46. 46.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 Aug. 1907.

  47. 47.

    Ibid., 15 Apr. and 15 Nov. 1913.

  48. 48.

    Financial Times, 28 Jan., 9 May, and 21 June 1905.

  49. 49.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 July 1916.

  50. 50.

    Financial Times, 20 June 1916, 17 June 1917, and 11 July 1918.

  51. 51.

    Economist, 12 July 1919 and 17 Jan. 1920. Typical company regulations said ordinary shareholders should not get any dividends until preference shareholders had been paid first. It is unclear why the company deviated from this norm.

  52. 52.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 March 1896; Financial Times, 14 June 1897, 15 Nov. 1902, and 11 Sept. and 1 Dec. 1905.

  53. 53.

    Financial Times, 8 Dec. 1914.

  54. 54.

    Wintle, “London Restaurants,” pp. 447–48; Financial Times, 1 Dec. 1899, 12 June 1900 and 15 Nov. 1902; Temperance Caterer, 15 March 1896.

  55. 55.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 March 1896; Financial Times, 3 March 1910.

  56. 56.

    Financial Times, 9 May, 21 June, 1 and 7 Nov., and 1 Dec. 1905, and 3 March 1910; Economist, 14 Dec. 1918.

  57. 57.

    Financial Times, 1 Dec. 1906, 3 Dec. 1907, 10 June 1908, and 7 Dec. 1909; Economist, 14 Dec. 1918.

  58. 58.

    Financial Times, 3 Dec. 1907 and 7 Dec. 1912.

  59. 59.

    Ibid., 1 Dec. 1902.

  60. 60.

    Ibid., 3 Dec. 1898, 1 Dec. 1902 and 1 Dec. 1904.

  61. 61.

    Ibid., 1 Dec. 1904, 7 Dec. 1911 and 3 Dec. 1913; Economist, 14 Dec. 1918.

  62. 62.

    Financial Times, 1 Dec. 1905 and 24 Nov. 1906.

  63. 63.

    Ibid., 7 Dec. 1909.

  64. 64.

    Ibid., 3 Dec. 1908 and 7 Dec. 1909.

  65. 65.

    Ibid., 3 Dec. 1908, 7 Dec. 1909 and 29 Nov. 1911.

  66. 66.

    Ibid., 16 Dec. 1909.

  67. 67.

    Ibid., 7 Dec. 1911.

  68. 68.

    Ibid., 6 Dec. 1910, 29 Nov. 1911 and 11 March 1916.

  69. 69.

    Dora Greenwell McChesney, “The World of the ABC,” Daily Mail, 15 Apr. 1903.

  70. 70.

    Ibid.; Edward Callow, “City Taverns, Chop and Coffee Houses, & C.,” City Press, reproduced in Temperance Caterer, 15 Jan. 1898.

  71. 71.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 Nov. 1901, 15 July 1903, 15 Sept. 1908 and 15 Jan. 1909; Financial Times, 30 Oct. 1891, 7 Nov. 1905 and 6 Nov. 1906. City teashops did not cater to the Establishment; popular with these individuals was the Oxford Street depot (Temperance Caterer, 15 Nov. 1912).

  72. 72.

    Annual Reports and ABC meetings, the only sources for the company’s financial performance, stopped disclosing dividends in the years 1904–1906. Extrapolating from net profits of £59,500 and £61,400 (1904–1905) suggests dividends fell into the 30–34% range (Financial Times, 7 Nov. 1905 and 31 Oct. 1907).

  73. 73.

    “Gold in the Tea-Cup”; Robert Leon, “Rise and Fall of the Aerated Bread Company,” Camden History Review 25 (2001): 48; Financial Times, 6 Nov. 1906.

  74. 74.

    Financial Times, 20 Dec. 1909 and 15 Nov. 1911; Times, 19 Oct. 1912; Economist, 11 Nov. 1911; Temperance Caterer, 15 Nov. 1911.

  75. 75.

    Economist, 4 June 1910.

  76. 76.

    Shareholder circular, Financial Times, 20 Dec. 1909; Temperance Caterer, 15 July 1906 and 15 Jan. 1910.

  77. 77.

    “Interview with Horace Pearce,” Financial Times, 15 Nov. 1911.

  78. 78.

    Ibid.; Financial Times, 14 Oct. 1911. Lack of clarity obscures the difference between a general manager and a managing director, a problem insolvable without company records. What motivated shareholders to give a general manager a “free hand?” How would his activity differ from that of a managing director? Was this “free hand” idea relatively common, or was it just that the Pearce sons were able to insist on it? So many pertinent questions must remain unanswerable without company records, reminiscences or memoirs.

  79. 79.

    “Interview with W. Horace Pearce,” Temperance Caterer, 14 Oct. and 15 Nov. 1911.

  80. 80.

    Ibid., 15 Nov. 1911; Economist, 4 June 1910.

  81. 81.

    “Interview with Horace Pearce,” Financial Times, 14 Oct. 1911; Temperance Caterer, 15 Nov. 1911; Economist, 4 June 1910.

  82. 82.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 Nov. 1911.

  83. 83.

    Ibid. See pp. 189–90.

  84. 84.

    “Interview with Horace Pearce,” Financial Times, 15 Nov. 1911.

  85. 85.

    Economist, 11 Nov. 1911.

  86. 86.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 Nov. 1911; Economist, 11 and 18 Nov. 1911; Financial Times, 15 Nov. 1911.

  87. 87.

    Economist, 1 Jan. 1910 and 11 Nov. 1911.

  88. 88.

    Even smaller firms such as Cabins missed dividends. Of the eleven years (1902–1912) for which information survives, it declared no dividends in five of them, despite having half of its depots located in other parts of London than in the City (Times, 19 Oct. 1912; Financial Times, 18 March 1902).

  89. 89.

    Financial Times, 1 May 1910, and 6 and 14 Oct. 1911; Economist, 4 June 1910.

  90. 90.

    Financial Times, 15 Nov. 1911; Times, 19 Oct. 1912.

  91. 91.

    Financial Times, 1 May 1910, and 6 and 14 Oct. 1911; Economist, 4 June 1910.

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Gutzke, D.W. (2019). Catering Crisis in Edwardian England. In: John Pearce and the Rise of the Mass Food Market in London, 1870–1930. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-27095-7_6

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