Skip to main content

The Transformation of Fashion Practice Through Instagram

  • Conference paper
  • First Online:
Fashion Communication in the Digital Age (FACTUM 2019)

Abstract

This case study analyzes Virgil Abloh’s 2018 debut show for Louis Vuitton’s menswear to investigate the impact of the social media platform Instagram on fashion practice. Using Bruno Latour’s Action-Network-Theory, the qualitative analysis of Instagram’s influence on other network actants in the fashion industry reviews the impact on choices of set design, casting, guests, the use of audio, collaborations, and the choice of the designer himself by the LVMH luxury conglomerate for the brand. It is contextualized within traditional fashion practice, specifically fashion show practice, as documented by fashion studies literature. The conclusion confirms a shift, suggesting that the digital literacy skills identified by Henry Jenkins have become a prerequisite for success in the fashion system. It also addresses challenges and opportunities which the format, strategy and commercial purpose of social media networks offer in the field of fashion, in particular the production of content by platform users

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 129.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 169.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 169.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  1. Bueger, C., Stockbruegger, J.: Actor-network theory: objects and actants, networks and narratives. In: Technology and World Politics: An Introduction, Abingdon, Oxon, New York, NY (2017)

    Google Scholar 

  2. Bain Report Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study. https://www.bain.com/insights/luxury-goods-worldwide-market-study-fall-winter-2017/. Accessed 21 Mar 2019

  3. Castells, M.: The Rise of the Network Society. Wiley, Chichester (2010)

    Google Scholar 

  4. de Klerk, A.: Harper’s Bazaar (2018). https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a23281601/eva-chen-how-to-build-a-brand-on-instagram/. Accessed 21 Mar 2019

  5. Duggan, G.G.: The greatest show on earth: a look at contemporary fashion shows and their relationship to performance art. Fash. Theory 5, 243–270 (2001). https://doi.org/10.2752/136270401778960883

    Article  Google Scholar 

  6. Eison Triple Thread FITS Homepage. https://www.app.eisontriplethread.com/. Accessed 21 Mar 2019

  7. Entwistle, J.: Bruno Latour: actor-network-theory and fashion. In: Rocamora, A., Smelik, A. (eds.) Thinking Through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists. I.B. Tauris, London (2016)

    Google Scholar 

  8. Jenkins, H.: Confronting the Challenges of Participatory Culture: Media Education for the 21st Century. The MIT Press, Cambridge (2009)

    Book  Google Scholar 

  9. Jenkins, H.: Transmedia storytelling 101. In: Davidson, D. (ed.) Cross-Media Communications: An Introduction to the Art of Creating Integrated Media Experiences, pp. 188–193. ETC Press, Pittsburgh (2010)

    Google Scholar 

  10. Kozlowska, H.: Shoppers are buying clothes just for the Instagram pic, and then returning them. https://qz.com/quartzy/1354651/shoppers-are-buying-clothes-just-for-the-instagram-pic-and-then-return-them/. Accessed 21 Mar 2019

  11. Latour, B.: Reassembling the social: an introduction to actor-network-theory. Oxford University Press, Oxford (2005)

    Google Scholar 

  12. Luce, L.: Artificial Intelligence for Fashion: How AI is Revolutionizing the Fashion Industry. Springer, New York (2018)

    Google Scholar 

  13. McLuhan, M.: Understanding Media: the Extensions of Man. MIT Press, Cambridge (1994)

    Google Scholar 

  14. Newell, M.: Smartphones and social media are redefining the retail market – here’s how (2019). https://www.theneweconomy.com/technology/smartphones-and-social-media-are-redefining-the-retail-market-heres-how. Accessed 21 Mar 2019

  15. Rocamora, A.: Pierre Bourdieu: the field of fashion. In: Rocamora, A., Smelik, A. (eds.) Thinking Through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists. I.B. Tauris, London (2016)

    Google Scholar 

  16. Rocamora, A.: Mediatization and digital media in the field of fashion. Fash. Theory 21, 505–522 (2017). https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1173349

    Article  Google Scholar 

  17. Schwartzberg, L.: How Off-White’s Virgil Abloh Uses Social Media To Teach And Inspire (2016). https://www.fastcompany.com/3058982/how-off-whites-virgil-abloh-uses-social-media-to-teach-and-inspire. Accessed 21 Mar 2019

  18. Sheehan, B.: Online Marketing. AVA Academia, Lausanne (2010)

    Google Scholar 

  19. Skov, L., Skjold, E., Moeran, B., Larsen, F., Csaba, F.: The fashion show as an art form. Department of Intercultural Communication and Management. Copenhagen Business School, Frederiksberg (2009)

    Google Scholar 

  20. Sulima, J.: How Streetwear Is Influencing a New Era of Luxury Fashion - Instagram is changing the industry (2018). https://www.adweek.com/brand-marketing/how-streetwear-is-influencing-a-new-era-of-luxury-fashion/. Accessed 21 Mar 2019

  21. Teunissen, J.: From dandy to fashion show: fashion as performance art. In: Brand, J., Teunissen, J., van der Zwaag, A., van den Berg, N. (eds.) The Power of Fashion: About Design and Meaning, pp. 194–222. Terra and ArtEZ Press, Arnhem (2006)

    Google Scholar 

  22. Wagner, K.: Facebook will soon rely on Instagram for the majority of its ad revenue growth (2018). https://www.recode.net/2018/10/9/17938356/facebook-instagram-future-revenue-growth-kevin-systrom. Accessed 21 Mar 2019

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Katharina Sand .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2019 Springer Nature Switzerland AG

About this paper

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this paper

Sand, K. (2019). The Transformation of Fashion Practice Through Instagram. In: Kalbaska, N., Sádaba, T., Cominelli, F., Cantoni, L. (eds) Fashion Communication in the Digital Age. FACTUM 2019. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-15436-3_7

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics