Abstract
This paper addresses the state of the question regarding crisis communication and corporate social responsibility, going on to describe the fashion industry system. For this, two crisis cases in the fashion industry are analyzed: Rana Plaza and Bravo Tekstil Factory. The Rana Plaza case is the worst accident in the history of fashion manufacturing. The management of the crisis on the part of the individual brands was extremely diverse and led them towards different communications scenarios. However, another crisis emerged at that moment: the industry itself and its manufacturing methods were effectively called into question. In fact, this issue has continued to be controversial and has led to an interesting public debate that had been demonstrated in the crisis in 2017. The crisis cases analyzed, bringing together the facts and the communicative reactions of the brands, as well as the media. This paper seeks to meet three objectives: stress the importance of communication with regard to the management of the crisis; highlight the link between crisis communication and corporate social responsibility; focus attention on the fashion industry, where intangible values acquire considerable importance and, therefore, are especially affected by crises. Our discussion and conclusions highlight the need to understand this kind of crisis by considering other perspectives and questioning some of the traditional ways of approaching the matter of crisis communication.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Notes
- 1.
According to the magazine, Modaes (28/04/14): Out of the 600,000 factories that make up the textile industry in Bangladesh, only 2,000 work for international groups, including the leading players from the industry in Spain: Inditex, Mango and the Cortefiel Group. In the same way as for H&M, Bangladesh is an important supply source for Inditex: it is the largest productive hub according to number of indirect employees, as indicated in the Year 2012 Annual Report. In 2012, Inditex purchased products from a total of 108 suppliers from Bangladesh, compared to ninety the previous year. These suppliers were linked, in turn, to 177 manufacturers, compared to 154 in 2011. A total of 228,520 persons made up the workforces at Inditex factories in Bangladesh at the end of 2012, some 2000 more than in 2011. This figure is well above the 170,709 employees who worked indirectly for Inditex in China, making this country the second most important supplier for the Galician company. In the case of Mango, out of the total purchases made by the group (including raw materials) in 2012, some 41.66% corresponded to China. Bangladesh is currently the sixth most important productive hub for the Catalan group, behind China, Turkey, South Korea, Spain and Morocco. In 2012, Bangladesh accounted for some 5.81% of the company’s overall purchases.
- 2.
A few months earlier, in November 2012, another accident took place in the textile industry in Bangladesh: a fire at the Tazreen Fashion factory in the district of Ashulia. More than one hundred workers lost their lives.
- 3.
The Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh was signed by the following brands: H&M, Inditex, C&A, PVH, Tchibo, Tesco, Marks & Spencer, Primark, El Corte Inglés, jbc, Mango, Carrefour, KiK, Helly Hansen, G-Star, Aldi, New Look, Mothercare, Loblaws, Sainsbury’s, Benetton, N Brown Group, Stockmann, WE Europe, Esprit, Rewe, Next, Lidl, Hess Natur, Switcher and A&F. Walmart, however, refused to sign the accord and, instead, in partnership with Gap, founded the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, which is a voluntary organization.
References
Sotelo Enríquez, C.: ¿Qué es la comunicación de crisis? Periodis. ante conflictos. El Pap. los medios Comun. en situaciones Cris. (1999)
Dowling, E.: Valorised but not valued? Affective remuneration, social reproduction and feminist politics beyond the crisis. Br. Polit. 11, 452–468 (2016)
Ruff, P., Aziz, K.: Managing Communications in a Crisis. Routledge, Burlington (2016)
Millar, D.P., Heath, R.L.: Managing organizational images: crisis response and legitimacy restoration. In: Responding to Crisis, pp. 241–254. Routledge (2003)
Eriksson, M.: On-line strategic crisis communication: in search of a descriptive model approach. Int. J. Strateg. Commun. 6, 309–327 (2012)
Eriksson, T.: Flexicurity and the Economic Crisis 2008–2009 (2012)
Mitroff, I.I.: Managing crises before they happen: what every executive and manager needs to know about crisis management. In: AMACOM/American Management Association (2000)
Marín, F.: Gestión técnica y de la comunicación en situaciones especiales. Cris. emergencias y Negoc. Madrid Fragua (2005)
Rodríguez, L.M.R., Toukoumidis, Á.T., Rodríguez, M.A.P.: Gestión comunicacional de crisis: entre la agenda corporativa y mediática. Estudio de caso Volkswagen España. Rev. Int. Relac. Públicas. 7, 83–100 (2017)
Ham, C.-D., Kim, J.: The role of CSR in crises: integration of situational crisis communication theory and the persuasion knowledge model. J. Bus. Ethics. 1–20 (2017)
González Herrero, A.: Marketing preventivo: la comunicación de crisis en la empresa. Bosch, Barcelona (1998)
Utz, S., Schultz, F., Glocka, S.: Crisis communication online: how medium, crisis type and emotions affected public reactions in the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear disaster. Public Relat. Rev. 39, 40–46 (2013)
Fishman, D.A.: ValuJet Flight 592: crisis communication theory blended and extended. Commun. Q. 47, 345–375 (1999)
Greer, C.F., Moreland, K.D.: United Airlines’ and American Airlines’ online crisis communication following the September 11 terrorist attacks. Public Relat. Rev. 29, 427–441 (2003)
Goodman, M.B.: Current trends in corporate communication. Corp. Commun. Int. J. 6, 117–123 (2001)
Perry, D.C., Taylor, M., Doerfel, M.L.: Internet-based communication in crisis management. Manag. Commun. Q. 17, 206–232 (2003)
Alfonso, G., Suzanne, S.: Crisis communications management on the web: how internet-based technologies are changing the way public relations professionals handle business crises. J. Contingencies Cris. Manag. 16, 143–153 (2008)
Hearn, G., Foth, M., Gray, H.: Applications and implementations of new media in corporate communications: an action research approach. Corp. Commun. Int. J. 14, 49–61 (2009)
Bajaj, G., Pillai, A., Gupta, R.: Crisis communication in the digital era. In: Managing in Recovering Markets, pp. 377–394. Springer (2015)
Siah Ann Mei, J., Bansal, N., Pang, A.: New media: a new medium in escalating crises? Corp. Commun. Int. J. 15, 143–155 (2010)
Segars, A.H.: Effective communication of corporate crises through the internet. Bus. Strateg. Rev. 14, 44–48 (2003)
i Gascón, J.F.F., del Olmo Arriaga, J.L., Nieto, V.B.: Presencia y reputación digital en” social media”: comparativa en el sector de la moda. Fonseca. J. Commun. 92–116 (2012)
Kim, A.J., Ko, E.: Impacts of luxury fashion brand's social media marketing on customer relationship and purchase intention. J. Glob. Fash. Mark. [Internet] 1(3), 164–171 (2010). http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/20932685.2010.10593068
Kim, A.J., Ko, E.: Do social media marketing activities enhance customer equity? An empirical study of luxury fashion brand. J. Bus. Res. 65, 1480–1486 (2012)
García, A.G., Guadalupe, G.A.: De un modelo de comunicación one-to-many a un modelo one-to-one. Rev. ICONO14 Rev. científica Comun. y Tecnol. 9, 175–191 (2011)
Alonso González, M.: Las redes sociales como canal de comunicación de las marcas de moda españolas. El caso de Zara, Mango y El Corte Inglés. Index. Comun. Rev. científica en el ámbito la Comun. Apl. 15, 77–105 (2015)
Fjeld, K., Molesworth, M.: PR practitioners’ experiences of, and attitudes towards, the internet’s contribution to external crisis communication. Corp. Commun. Int. J. 11(4), 391–405 (2006). Emerald Group Publishing Limited
Sellnow, T., Brand, J.: Establishing the structure of reality for an industry: model and anti-model arguments as advocacy in Nike’s crisis communication. J. Appl. Commun. Res. 29, 278–295 (2001)
McHale, J.P., Zompetti, J.P., Moffitt, M.A.: A hegemonic model of crisis communication: truthfulness and repercussions for free speech in Kasky v. Nike. J. Bus. Commun. 44, 374–402 (2007)
Tokatli, N.: Global sourcing: insights from the global clothing industry—the case of Zara, a fast fashion retailer. J. Econ. Geogr. 8, 21–38 (2008)
Da Giau, A., Macchion, L., Caniato, F., Caridi, M., Danese, P., Rinaldi, R., Vinelli, A.: Sustainability practices and web-based communication: an analysis of the Italian fashion industry. J. Fash. Mark. Manag. 20, 72–88 (2016)
Goworek, H., Hiller, A., Fisher, T., Cooper, T., Woodward, S.: Consumers’ attitudes towards sustainable fashion: clothing usage and disposal. In: Sustainability in fashion and textiles, pp. 376–392. Routledge (2017)
Aspers, P., Skov, L.: Encounters in the global fashion business: afterword. Curr. Sociol. 54, 802–813 (2006)
Turker, D., Altuntas, C.: Sustainable supply chain management in the fast fashion industry: an analysis of corporate reports. Eur. Manag. J. 32, 837–849 (2014)
Choi, T.-M., Chiu, C.-H.: Mean-downside-risk and mean-variance newsvendor models: implications for sustainable fashion retailing. Int. J. Prod. Econ. 135, 552–560 (2012)
Cachon, G.P., Swinney, R.: The value of fast fashion: quick response, enhanced design, and strategic consumer behavior. Manage. Sci. 57, 778–795 (2011)
Sull, D., Turconi, S.: Fast fashion lessons. Lond. Bus. Sch. Rev. 19, 4–11 (2008)
Sádaba, T., Lara, L.: Moda y Marca España. In: Retos de nuestra acción exterior. Diplomacia Pública y Marca España (2012)
Simona-Segre, R.: China and Italy: fast fashion versus Pret a Porter. Towards a new culture of fashion. Fash. Theory. 9, 43–56 (2005)
Lopez Barrios, M.C.: El impacto ambiental del fash fashion pronta moda. Arquetipo 4, 71–80 (2012)
Caniato, F., Caridi, M., Crippa, L., Moretto, A.: Environmental sustainability in fashion supply chains: an exploratory case based research. Int. J. Prod. Econ. 135, 659–670 (2012)
Godey, B., Lai, C.: Construction of international brand portfolios: impact on local brands. J. Prod. Brand Manag. 20, 402–407 (2011)
Mandelli, A., Cantoni, L.: Social media impact on corporate reputation: proposing a new methodological approach/impacto de los medios sociales en la reputación corporativa: propuesta de un nuevo acercamiento metodológico. Cuad. info. 27, 61–74 (2010)
Jin, Y., Liu, B.F.: The blog-mediated crisis communication model: recommendations for responding to influential external blogs. J. Public Relations Res. 22, 429–455 (2010). https://doi.org/10.1080/10627261003801420
Smith, B.G.: Socially distributing public relations: Twitter, Haiti, and interactivity in social media. Public Relat. Rev. 36, 329–335 (2010)
Aula, P.: Social media, reputation risk and ambient publicity management. Strateg. Leadersh. 38, 43–49 (2010)
Ott, L., Theunissen, P.: Reputations at risk: engagement during social media crises. Public Relat. Rev. 41, 97–102 (2015)
Bridgeman, R.: Crisis Communication and the net: is it just about responding faster . . . or do we need to learn a new game? In: Anthonissen, P.F. (ed.) Crisis Communication: Practical PR Strategies for Reputation Management and Company Survival. pp. 169–177. Kogan Page, Bridgeman Communications, London and Philadelphia (2008)
Berger, J., Milkman, K.L.: What makes online content viral? J. Mark. Res. 49, 192–205 (2012)
Massey, J.E.: Managing Organizational Images: Crisis Response and Legitimacy Restoration. Routledge, California State University (2003). https://doi.org/10.4324/9781410609496
Dowling, J., Pfeffer, J.: Organizational legitimacy: social values and organizational behavior. Pac. Sociol. Rev. 18, 122–136 (1975)
Emberley, J.V.: Venus and furs: the cultural politics of fur. IB Tauris (1998)
Moisander, J., Pesonen, S.: Narratives of sustainable ways of living: constructing the self and the other as a green consumer. Manag. Decis. 40, 329–342 (2002)
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2019 Springer Nature Switzerland AG
About this paper
Cite this paper
Sádaba, T., SanMiguel, P., Gargoles, P. (2019). Communication Crisis in Fashion: From the Rana Plaza Tragedy to the Bravo Tekstil Factory Crisis. In: Kalbaska, N., Sádaba, T., Cominelli, F., Cantoni, L. (eds) Fashion Communication in the Digital Age. FACTUM 2019. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-15436-3_24
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-15436-3_24
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-030-15435-6
Online ISBN: 978-3-030-15436-3
eBook Packages: Business and ManagementBusiness and Management (R0)