Regional Brioches

  • Raymond Calvel


Although it was the ancestor of the Parisian brioche that inspired the painter Chardin in the 18th century, it is not—and was not—the only type made in France. Other regional brioches may be made during certain seasons of the year—or even all year long—and are certainly worthy of being better known. That is especially true of the Vendée-type brioche, the gâche, certain types of Three Kings’ cakes, the Palm Sunday and Rodez hearth cakes, the “fist” from Romans-sur-Isère, and the kugelhopf. Similar products are also made in other countries, such as the Spanish mouna (which is also made in France), the Italian panettone, and Argentine pan dulce or sweet bread.


Ascorbic Acid White Wine Dough System Butter Content Sweet Dough 
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  1. 1.
    It is very possible that all of these began as sourdough recipes.Google Scholar
  2. 2.
    The order of the recipes in this chapter is slightly different from the French text. Since Professor Calvel has often expressed to James MacGuire his great fondness for the kugelhopf, it is given pride of place in this edition.Google Scholar
  3. 3.
    Many French recipes that call for bacon pieces indicate that the bacon should be “blanched” by bringing it to a boil in cold water before browning.Google Scholar
  4. 4.
    In contrast to standard American practice, the French generally use a slightly fermented cream (crème fraîche) for whipping. This provides a richer and more complex flavor profile, as well as a more acidic pH, which has greater resistance to bacterial growth and is conducive to longer shelf life.Google Scholar
  5. 6.
    This custom still survives in Italy at the present time.Google Scholar
  6. 7.
    The popularity of the panettone has also spread to many other Latin American countries with large populations of European origin, including Colombia, Peru, Venezuela, Paraguay, and Chile.Google Scholar
  7. 8.
    Temperatures lower than 8 to 10°C would tend to damage the culture.Google Scholar
  8. 9.
    The original French text specified a type 55 wheat flour with a W value of around 280, with a P/L of 0.8. In actual practice, many North American bread flours would be acceptable. A Technical Bulletin (1992, No. 8) available from the American Institute of Baking discusses at some length the production of industrial-type panettone with North American flours.Google Scholar

Copyright information

© Springer Science+Business Media New York 2001

Authors and Affiliations

  • Raymond Calvel

There are no affiliations available

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