Modeling Coastal Environments

  • William T. Fox


Several different types of computer models have been proposed to explain the development and evolution of coastal features. In most coastal studies, a profile or map forms a geometric model that provides a framework for more complex theoretical models. Geologic processes that operate within the coastal framework can be reproduced with physical models, such as wave tanks, or with various types of statistical and mathematical models. The effects that geologic processes have on the coastal environment can be studied to form a geologic response model. By combining processes and responses into a single unified model, it is possible to construct a process-response model that can be used to predict different attributes of the coastline under various conditions (Krumbein, 1961; Whitten, 1964). When a process-response model is programmed for a computer, a simulation model is developed that can be projected forward through time with the introduction of feedback loops.


Wave Height Froude Number Barometric Pressure Surf Zone Beach Profile 
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© Springer-Verlag New York Inc. 1985

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  • William T. Fox

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