Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

Interaction of Surface Waves and Cohesive Sediments: Field Observations and Geologic Significance

  • Conference paper
Estuarine Cohesive Sediment Dynamics

Part of the book series: Lecture Notes on Coastal and Estuarine Studies ((COASTAL,volume 14))

Abstract

Surface waves and cohesive sediments are part of a coupled system in which the components interact to produce extreme rates of wave attenuation and rapid resuspension of bottom sediments. A review of published literature, together with examination of new and archived data sets from Louisiana and Surinam, indicates that these interactions are of practical significance in that they 1) may govern areas of present and future erosion and accretion in open-coast environments, 2) can lead to extraordinarily high rates of sediment transport, even under relatively weak currents, and 3) result in cohesive sediment storage facilities that display both temporary and transitory characteristics.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Log in via an institution
Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 84.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 109.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Preview

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

References

  1. Alishahi, M. R., and Krone, R. B., “Suspension of Cohesive Sediment by Wind- Generated Waves,” Technical Report, Hydraulic Engineering Laboratory, HEL-2-9, University of California, Berkeley, CA, 1964, pp. 1–24.

    Google Scholar 

  2. Anderson, F. E., “Resuspension of Estuarine Sediments by Small Amplitude Waves,” Jour. Sediment. Petrol ., Vol. 42, 1972, pp. 602–607.

    Google Scholar 

  3. Anderson, F. E., “Observations of Some Sedimentary Processes Acting on a Tidal Flat,” Mar. Geol ., Vol. 14, 1973, pp. 101–116.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  4. Anderson, F. E., “Rapid Settling Rates Observed in Sediments Resuspended by Boat Waves Over a Tidal Flat,” Netherlands Jour. Sea Res., Vol. 10, 1976, pp. 44–58.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  5. Anderson, F. E., “The Northern Muddy Intertidal: Seasonal Factors Controlling Erosion and Deposition - A Review,” Canadian Jour. Fish. Aquatic Sci., Vol. 40, Supplement 1, 1983, pp. 143–159.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  6. Bea, R. G., “Gulf of Mexico Hurricane Wave Heights,” Proceedings, 6th Offshore Technology Conf., Paper OTC 2110, Dallas, TX, 1974, pp. 791–810.

    Google Scholar 

  7. Bea, R. G., Bernard, H. A., Arnold, P., and Doyle, E. H., “Soil Movements and Forces Developed by Wave-Induced Slides in the Mississippi Delta,” Jour. Petroleum Tech., 1975, pp. 500–514.

    Google Scholar 

  8. Bohlen, W. F., “An Investigation of Suspended Material Concentrations in Eastern Long Island Sound,” Jour. Geophys. Res ., Vol. 80, 1975, pp. 5089–5100.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  9. Boussinesq, J., “Theorie des ondes et de remous qui se propagent le long d’un canal rectangulaire horizontal, en communiquant au liquide contenu dans ce canal des vitesses sensiblement paralleles de la surface au fond,” Jour. Math. Pures et Appliquées, Vol. 17, 1872, pp. 55–108.

    Google Scholar 

  10. Bretschneider, C. L., and Reid, R. O., “Modification of Wave Height Due to Bottom Friction, Percolation, and Refraction,” Technical Memorandum 45, Beach Erosion Board, 1954, pp. 1–36.

    Google Scholar 

  11. Bristow, R. C., Cochin Harbour Development: History of Mud Banks, Cochin Government Press, Ernokulam, India, 1938, pp. 1–174.

    Google Scholar 

  12. Buller, A. T., and McManus, J., “Factors Influencing the Formation of ‘Turbidity Maxima’ with Examples from the Tay Estuary, Scotland,” Mem. Inst. Geol. Basin d’Aquitaine, Vol. 7, 1974, pp. 37–44.

    Google Scholar 

  13. Buller, A. T., “Sediments of the Tay Estuary, Part II, Formation of Ephemeral Zones of High Suspended Sediment Concentrations,” Proceedings, Royal Soc. Edinburgh, Vol. 75, 1975, pp. 65–89.

    Google Scholar 

  14. Carling, P. A., “Temperal and Spatial Variations in Intertidal Sedimentation Rates,” Sedimentology, Vol. 29, 1982, pp. 17–24.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  15. Dalrymple, R. A., and Liu, P. L.-F, “Wave Over Soft Muds: A Two-Layer Fluid Model,” Jour. Physical Oceanography, Vol. 8, 1978, pp. 1121–1131.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  16. Dawson, T. H., “Wave Propagation Over a Deformable Sea Floor,” Ocean Eng., Vol. 5, 1978, pp. 227–234.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  17. Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Demerara Coastal Investigation, Delft, The Netherlands, 1962, pp. 1–240.

    Google Scholar 

  18. Forristall, G. Z., and Reece, A. M., “Measurements of Wave Attenuation Due to a Soft Bottom: The SWAMP Experiment,” Jour. Geophys. Res., Vol. 90, 1985, pp. 3367–3380.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  19. Gade, H. G., “Effects of a Nonrigid, Impermeable Bottom on Plane Surface Waves in Shallow Water,” Jour. Marine Res ., Vol. 16, 1958, pp. 61–82.

    Google Scholar 

  20. Gade, H. G., “Notes on the Effect of Elasticity of Bottom Sediments to the Energy Dissipation of Surface Waves in Shallow Water,” Arch. Math. Natur ., Oslo, Norway, Vol. 55, 1959, pp. 69–80.

    Google Scholar 

  21. Hsiao, S. V., and Shemdin, O. H., “Bottom Dissipation in Finite-Depth Water Waves,” Proceedings, 16th Coastal Engineering Conference, Hamburg, Germany, Vol. 1, 1978, pp. 434–448.

    Google Scholar 

  22. Hsiao, S. V., and Shemdin, O. H., “Interaction of Ocean Waves with a Soft Bottom,” Jour. Physical Oceanography, Vol. 10, 1980, pp. 605–610.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  23. Ippen, A. T., and Kulin, G., “The Shoaling and Breaking of the Solitary Wave,” Proceedings, 5th Coastal Engineering Conference, Grenoble, France, 1955, pp. 27–49.

    Google Scholar 

  24. Keulegan, G. H., “Gradual Damping of Solitary Waves,” Jour, of Research, Nat. Bur. Stand., Vol. 40.

    Google Scholar 

  25. Kinsman, B., Wind Waves, Prentice-Hall Publishing Co., Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey, 1965.

    Google Scholar 

  26. Komar, P. D., and Miller, R. C., “Sediment Threshold Under Oscillatory Waves,” Proceedings, 14th Coastal Engineering Conference, Copenhagen, Denmark, Vol. 3, 1974, pp. 756–775.

    Google Scholar 

  27. Krone, R. B., “Predicted Suspended Sediment Inflows to the San Francisco Bay System,” Report Federal Water Pollution Control Administration, Southwest Region, 1966.

    Google Scholar 

  28. Mallard, W. W., and Dalrymple, R. A., “Water Waves Propagating Over a Deformable Bottom,” Proceedings, 9th Offshore Technology Conf., Paper OTC 2895, Houston, TX, 1977, pp. 141–146.

    Google Scholar 

  29. MacPherson, H., and Kurup, P. G., “Wave Damping at the Kerala Mudbanks,” Indian Jour. Mar. Sci., Vol. 10, 1981, pp. 154–160.

    Google Scholar 

  30. McCave, I. N., “Deposition of Fine-Grained Suspended Sediment From Tidal Currents,” Jour. Geophys. Res ., Vol. 75, 1970, pp. 4151–4159.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  31. McCave, I. N., “Wave Effectiveness at the Sea Bed and its Relationship to Bed- Forms and Deposition of Mud,” Jour. Sediment. Pet., Vol. 41, 1971, pp. 89–96.

    Google Scholar 

  32. Miles, J. W., “Solitary Wave Evolution over a Gradual Slope with Turbulent Friction,” Jour. Physical Oceanog ., Vol. 13, 1983, pp. 551–553.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  33. Moni, N. S., “Study of Mudbanks Along the Southwest Coast of India,” Proceedings, 12th Coastal Engineering Conference, Washington, D.C., Vol. 2, 1970, pp. 739–750.

    Google Scholar 

  34. Morgan, J. P., Van Lopik, J. R., and Nichols, L. G., “Occurrence and Development of Mudflats Along the Western Louisiana Coast,” Technical Report 2, Coastal Studies Institute, Louisiana State University, Baton Rouge, LA, 1953, pp. 1–34.

    Google Scholar 

  35. Nair, R. R., “Unique Mud Banks, Kerala, Southwest India,” Bulletin, American Assoc. Pet. Geologists, Vol. 60, 1976, pp. 616–621.

    Google Scholar 

  36. NEDECO, Surinam Transportation Study, 3 Vols., Netherlands Engineering Consultants, The Hague, The Netherlands, 1968.

    Google Scholar 

  37. Postma, H., “Sediment Transport and Sedimentation in the Estuarine Environment,” In Lauff, G. H., Estuaries, Publication No. 83, American Association for the Advancement of Science, Washington, D.C., 1967.

    Google Scholar 

  38. Putnam, J. A., and Johnson, J. W., “The Dissipation of Wave Energy by Bottom Friction,” Transactions, American Geophys. Union, Vol. 30, 1949, pp. 67–74.

    Google Scholar 

  39. Reid, R. O., and Kajiura, K., “On the Damping of Gravity Waves Over a Permeable Sea Bed,” Transactions, American Geophys. Union, Vol. 38, 1957, pp. 662–666.

    Google Scholar 

  40. Schubel, J. R., “Suspended Sediment of the Northern Chesapeake Bay,” Report 35, Chesapeake Bay Institute, Johns Hopkins Univ., Baltimore, MD, 1968.

    Google Scholar 

  41. Shideler, G. L., “Suspended Sediment Responses in a Wind-Dominated Estuary of the Texas Gulf Coast,” Jour. Sediment. Pet., Vol. 54, 1984, pp. 731–745.

    Google Scholar 

  42. Silvester, R., and Mogridge, G. R., “Reach of Waves to the Bed of the Continental Shelf,” Proceedings, 12th Coastal Engineering Conference, Washington, D.C., Vol. 2, 1970, pp. 651–667.

    Google Scholar 

  43. Sternberg, R. W., and Larsen, L. H., “Threshold of Sediment Movement by Open Ocean Waves: Observations,” Deep Sea Research, Vol. 22, 1975, pp. 299–309.

    Google Scholar 

  44. Suhayda, J. N., Whelen, T., Coleman, J. M., Booth, J. S., and Garrison, L. E., “Marine Sediment Instability: Interaction of Hydrodynamic Forces and Bottom Sediments,” Proceedings, 8th Offshore Technology Conf., Paper 0TC 2426, Houston, TX, 1976, pp. 29–40.

    Google Scholar 

  45. Suhayda, J. N., “Surface Waves and Bottom Sediment Response,” Marine Geotech., Vol. 2, 1977, pp. 135–146.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  46. Thimakorn, P., “An Experiment on Clay Suspension Under Water Waves,” Proceedings, 17th Coastal Engineering Conf., Sydney, Australia, Vol. 3, 1980, pp. 2894–2906.

    Google Scholar 

  47. Tubman, M. W., and Suhayda, J. N., “Wave Action and Bottom Movements in Fine Sediments,” Proceedings, 15th Coastal Engineering Conf., Honolulu, Hawaii, Vol. 2, 1976, pp. 1168–1183.

    Google Scholar 

  48. Wells, J. T., “Shallow-Water Waves and Fluid-Mud Dynamics, Coast of Surinam, South America,” Thesis presented to the Louisiana State University, Baton Rouge, Louisiana, in 1977, in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy.

    Google Scholar 

  49. Wells, J. T., “Fluid-Mud Dynamics in Low-, Moderate-, and High-Tide-Range Environments,” Canadian Jour. Fish. Aquatic. Sci., Vol. 40, Supplement 1, 1983, pp. 130–142.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  50. Wells, J. T., and Coleman, J. M., “Physical Processes and Fine-Grained Sediment Dynamics, Coast of Surinam, South America,” Jour. Sediment. Pet., Vol. 51, 1981, pp. 1053–1068.

    Google Scholar 

  51. Wells, J. T., and Kemp, G. P., “Mudflat and Marsh Progradation Along Louisiana’s Chenier Plain: A Natural Reversal in Coastal Erosion,” Proceedings, Conference on Coastal Erosion and Wetland Modification in Louisiana: Causes, Consequences, Options, Baton Rouge, LA, 1981, pp. 39–51.

    Google Scholar 

  52. Wells, J. T., and Roberts, H. H., “Fluid Mud Dynamics and Shoreline Stabilization,” Proceedings, 17th Coastal Engineering Conf., Sydney, Australia, Vol. 2, 1980, pp. 1382–1401.

    Google Scholar 

  53. Wells, J. T., Coleman, J. M., and Wiseman, Wm. J., “Suspension and Transportation of Fluid Mud by Solitary-Like Waves,” Proceedings, 16th Coastal Engineering Conf., Hamburg, Germany, Vol. 2, 1978, pp. 1937–1952.

    Google Scholar 

  54. Wells, J. T., Huh, O. K., and Park, Y. A., “Dispersal of Silts and Clays by Winter Monsoon Surges in the Southeastern Yellow Sea,” Proceedings, International Symposium on Sedimentation on the Continental Shelf, Hangzhou, China, Vol. 1, 1983, pp. 462–472.

    Google Scholar 

  55. Wells, J. T., Park, Y. A., and Choi, J. H., “Storm-Induced Fine Sediment Transport, West Coast of South Korea,” Geo-Marine Letters, Vol. 4, 1985, pp. 177–180.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  56. Zenkovitch, V. P., Processes of Coastal Development, Wiley Interscience, 1967.

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Institute of Marine Sciences, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, Morehead City, North Carolina, 28557, USA

    John T. Wells

  2. Coastal Studies Institute, Louisiana State University, Baton Rouge, Louisiana, 70803, USA

    G. Paul Kemp

Authors
  1. John T. Wells
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. G. Paul Kemp
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

  1. Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida, 32611, USA

    Ashish J. Mehta

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 1986 Springer-Verlag New York, Inc.

About this paper

Cite this paper

Wells, J.T., Kemp, G.P. (1986). Interaction of Surface Waves and Cohesive Sediments: Field Observations and Geologic Significance. In: Mehta, A.J. (eds) Estuarine Cohesive Sediment Dynamics. Lecture Notes on Coastal and Estuarine Studies, vol 14. Springer, New York, NY. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4612-4936-8_3

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4612-4936-8_3

  • Publisher Name: Springer, New York, NY

  • Print ISBN: 978-0-387-96296-2

  • Online ISBN: 978-1-4612-4936-8

  • eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive

Publish with us

Policies and ethics

Search

Navigation