The Interpretation and Validation of Measurements of the Ocean Wave Directional Spectrum
This paper discusses the problems that arise in interpreting and validating new technologies for the measurement of the directional spectrum of the ocean surface. Remote sensing techniques, from the ground or satellites, are under development but, in general, they require detailed numerical inversion methods to extract the wave information and hence need to be carefully validated. The more established measurement techniques, e.g. buoys, are themselves not perfect and do not measure the full spectrum, and these limitations needs to be taken into account in any validation work. The issues raised are discussed with reference to intercomparisons between HF radar and wave buoy measurements. By combining different intercomparison methods the limitations of the HF radar measurement are more clearly identified.
KeywordsSynthetic Aperture Radar Sampling Variability Wave Measurement Coastal Engineer Directional Spectrum
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