Abstract
By the end of the Uruguay Round, some form or other of exceptional, protectionist trade regime for textile and clothing products had been in place for nearly forty years. This had started with unilateral American restrictions against Japan in the mid 1950s, but had grown into a fully legitimated GATT-based accord restricting imports of textile and clothing products from the world’s (often poorest) developing countries to the most advanced industrialised economies. This arrangement was forged from the common interests of producer firms and their associations, integrated into the trade policy processes across a range of influential and wealthy GATT member states. State and market actors together forged the structure of the market for these products in the industrialised countries. These state and market actors, integrated into the global trade policy process, and were largely united in their pursuit of an increasingly restrictive MFA, despite their declaratory posture on the ‘temporary’ nature of the accord. By 1986, at the launch of the Uruguay Round, this transnational capture of the global textile and clothing trade regime appeared as entrenched as ever. Entrenched interests with substantial and institutionalised political resources are difficult to dislodge.
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Notes
Bela Balassa, ‘Les Tendances actuelles de la spécialisation internationale de la production manufactrière’, in Henri Bourguinat (ed.), Internationalisation et autonomie de décision (Paris: Economica, 1982), p. 26.
Xiaobing Tang, ‘Textiles and the Uruguay Round of Multilateral Trade Negotiations’, in Journal of World Trade Law, vol. 23, no. 3, June 1989, p. 52.
Robin Anson and Paul Simpson, World Textile Trade and Production Trends, Special Report no. 1108 (London: Economist Intelligence Unit, June 1988), p. 34.
Michael Scheffer, The Changing Map of European Textiles: Production and Sourcing Strategies of Textile and Clothing Firms, Report Commissioned by OETH (Brussels: Observatoire Européen du Textile et de l’Habillement, 1994), p. 11.
There are two fairly exhaustive accounts of the textile and clothing talks in the Uruguay Round, and these will be relied on extensively, in addition to interview evidence: (1) Marcelo Raffaelli and Tripti Jenkins, The Drafting History of the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (Geneva: International Textiles and Clothing Bureau, 1995)
Text of the Punta del Este GATT Ministerial Declaration on the Uruguay Round, 20 September 1986, reprinted in Hugo Paemen and Alexandra Bensch, From GATT to the WTO: The European Community in the Uruguay Round (Leuven: University Press, 1995), p. 275.
See Michael Smith, ‘The European Community: Testing the Boundaries of Foreign Economic Policy’, in Richard Stubbs and Geoffrey Underhill (eds), Political Economy and the Changing Global Order (London: Macmillan, 1994), pp. 453–68.
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© 1998 Geoffrey R. D. Underhill
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Underhill, G.R.D. (1998). Dismantling Protectionism: The Political Economy of Liberalisation in the Uruguay Round. In: Industrial Crisis and the Open Economy. International Political Economy Series. Palgrave Macmillan, London. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-349-26903-7_6
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-349-26903-7_6
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