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Energy dissipation due to wave breaking

  • Stanisław R. Massel
Part of the ATMOSPHERIC AND OCEANOGRAPHIC SCIENCES LIBRARY book series (ATSL, volume 38)

Abstract

Despite great efforts, present knowledge of breaking wave statistics and the related energy dissipation is fragmentary. Our ability to quantify wave breaking processes is inhibited by the absence of good quantitative measures of the distribution of breaking. Numerical models developed during the last 30 years on wind wave mechanics have been based on the transport or spectral balance equation incorporating three dynamical processes: energy input from the wind, wave-wave interactions and dissipation by wave breaking. The first two are distinct dynamical processes that have attracted considerable theoretical, experimental and observational attention, and they are considered in principal calculable. In contrast, dissipation still remains a problem. In his pioneering work, Hasselmann (1974) proposed a dissipation source function that incorporated only some general physical constraints together with many empirical data modified over the years.

Keywords

Energy Dissipation Dissipation Rate Wave Breaking Breaking Event Energy Attenuation 
These keywords were added by machine and not by the authors. This process is experimental and the keywords may be updated as the learning algorithm improves.

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Copyright information

© Springer 2007

Authors and Affiliations

  • Stanisław R. Massel
    • 1
  1. 1.Institute of Oceanology of the PolishAcademy of Sciences, SopotPoland

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