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Wave breaking criteria and probability of breaking

  • Stanisław R. Massel
Part of the ATMOSPHERIC AND OCEANOGRAPHIC SCIENCES LIBRARY book series (ATSL, volume 38)

Abstract

Breaking waves are usually associated with steep waves that occur in a given sea. Several criteria have been proposed for the detection of wave breaking events in the past with somewhat arbitrary thresholds. In general they can be divided into two classes, the first related to some characteristics of the surface elevation at a point, and the second to observations of air entrainment, whitecaps or ambient noise. The first set of simple criteria of the limiting form of wave motion was established by Stokes more than one hundred years ago (Stokes 1847, 1880). According to Stokes, the necessary criteria to start an individual wave breaking are:

Keywords

Wave Height Phase Speed Wave Breaking Wave Crest Regular Wave 
These keywords were added by machine and not by the authors. This process is experimental and the keywords may be updated as the learning algorithm improves.

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Copyright information

© Springer 2007

Authors and Affiliations

  • Stanisław R. Massel
    • 1
  1. 1.Institute of Oceanology of the PolishAcademy of Sciences, SopotPoland

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