Mechanics of steep and breaking waves
Gravity surface waves, due to the nonlinear character of their motion, undergo various types of modulation on the way of propagation. Depending on the basic wave parameters, the shape of wave profile can vary, from very gentle to very steep. However, the steepening of the wave profile is not unlimited and for some wave parameters waves lose their stability and break. As in this book we are focusing on the wave breaking, it is quite appropriate to discuss first the mechanics of steep waves in some detail as steep waves represent an initial phase to breaking waves, both regular waves and irregular wind-induced waves.
KeywordsWave Height Wave Train Breaking Wave Wave Group Steep Wave
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