Surf and run-up
There is usually a region on beaches, closer to the shore than the area in which waves first break, in which the waves may be modelled by a combination of the finite- amplitude shallow-water equations and bores. Numerical computations of such bores and their run-up have been performed and compared with analytical results. Calculations for a single bore show the run-up, run-down, formation of a “backwash” bore and reflected waves propagating away from the shoreline. A preliminary calculation with periodic bores is shown.
KeywordsSediment Transport Froude Number Water Wave Surf Zone Slope Beach
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