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Surf and run-up

  • S. Hibberd
  • D. H. Peregrine
Part III — Waves and Beaches
Part of the Lecture Notes in Physics book series (LNP, volume 64)

Abstract

There is usually a region on beaches, closer to the shore than the area in which waves first break, in which the waves may be modelled by a combination of the finite- amplitude shallow-water equations and bores. Numerical computations of such bores and their run-up have been performed and compared with analytical results. Calculations for a single bore show the run-up, run-down, formation of a “backwash” bore and reflected waves propagating away from the shoreline. A preliminary calculation with periodic bores is shown.

Keywords

Sediment Transport Froude Number Water Wave Surf Zone Slope Beach 
These keywords were added by machine and not by the authors. This process is experimental and the keywords may be updated as the learning algorithm improves.

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Copyright information

© Springer-Verlag 1977

Authors and Affiliations

  • S. Hibberd
    • 1
  • D. H. Peregrine
    • 1
  1. 1.Department of MathematicsUniversity of BristolBristolEngland

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