Surf and run-up

  • S. Hibberd
  • D. H. Peregrine
Part III — Waves and Beaches
Part of the Lecture Notes in Physics book series (LNP, volume 64)


There is usually a region on beaches, closer to the shore than the area in which waves first break, in which the waves may be modelled by a combination of the finite- amplitude shallow-water equations and bores. Numerical computations of such bores and their run-up have been performed and compared with analytical results. Calculations for a single bore show the run-up, run-down, formation of a “backwash” bore and reflected waves propagating away from the shoreline. A preliminary calculation with periodic bores is shown.


Sediment Transport Froude Number Water Wave Surf Zone Slope Beach 
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Copyright information

© Springer-Verlag 1977

Authors and Affiliations

  • S. Hibberd
    • 1
  • D. H. Peregrine
    • 1
  1. 1.Department of MathematicsUniversity of BristolBristolEngland

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