Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in
Book cover

Cosmetic Dermatology pp 17–28Cite as

Anti-Aging Skin Care Ingredient Technologies

  • Chapter

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution.

Chapter
USD   29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD   129.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD   159.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD   169.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Learn about institutional subscriptions

Preview

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

References

  1. Elias PM (1983) Epidermal lipids, barrier function and desquamation. J Invest Dermatol 80(Suppl 1): 44–49

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  2. Jacobi O (1959) About the mechanism of moisture regulation in the horny layer of the skin. Proc Scient Sect Toil Goods Assoc 31: 22–26

    Google Scholar 

  3. Blank IH (1952) Factors which influence the water content of the SC. J Invest Dermatol 18: 430–433

    Google Scholar 

  4. Angelin JH (1976) Urocanic acid a natural sunscreen. Cosmet Toil 91: 47–49

    Google Scholar 

  5. Baden HP, Pathak MA (1967) The metabolism and function of urocanic acid in the skin. J Invest Dermatol 48: 11–17

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  6. Lahmann C et al (2001) Matrix metalloproteinase-1 and skin ageing in smokers. Lancet 24: 935–936

    Google Scholar 

  7. Floyd RA (2000) Nitrone inhibition of age associated oxidative damage. Ann NY Acad Sci 899: 222–237

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  8. Floyd RA et al (2002) Nitrones, their value as therapeutics and probes to understanding aging. Mech Ageing Dev 123(8): 1021–1031

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  9. Carney and Floyd (1991) Protection against oxidative damage to CNS by alpha-phenyl-tert-butyl nitrone (PBN) and other spin-trapping agents: A novel series of nonlipid free radical scavengers. J Molec Neurosci 3(1): 47–57

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  10. Pogrebniak HW (1992) Spin trap salvage from endotoxemia: the role of cytokine down-regulation. Surgery 112(2): 130–139

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  11. Jens J et al (1999) Sebaceous gland secretion is a major physiologic route of vitamin E delivery to skin. J Invest Dermatol 113: 1006–1010

    Google Scholar 

  12. Norkus, Edward P (1990) Bioconversion of vitamin E acetate to free tocopherol, New York Medical College

    Google Scholar 

  13. Packer Lester (1991) Protective effects of Vitamin E acetate against UVB/UVA radiation, University of California

    Google Scholar 

  14. Trevithick J R (1993) Reduction of sunburn damage to skin by topical application of vitamin E acetate, Scanning Microsc 7(4): 1269–1281

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  15. Thiele JJ et al (1997) Ozone-exposure depletes vitamin E and induces lipid peroxidation in murine stratum corneum. J Investig Dermatol 108: 753–757

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  16. Djerassi D (2001) The role of vitamins in high performance cosmetics. Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacturers Worldwide

    Google Scholar 

  17. Darr D et al (1996). Effectiveness of antioxidants (vitamin C and E) with and without sunscreens as topical photoprotectants. Acta Derm Venereol 76: 264–268

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  18. Chan AC (1993) Partners in defense, vitamin E and vitamin C. Can J Physiol Pharmacol 71: 725–731.

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  19. Phillips CL et al (1992) Ascorbic acid and transforming growth factor-ß1 increase collagen biosynthesis via different mechanisms: coordinate regulation of pro-alpha 1(I) and pro-alpha 1(III) collagens. Arch Biochem Biophys 295: 397–403.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  20. Geesin JC et al (1988) Ascorbic acid specifically increases type I and type III procollagen messenger RNA levels in human skin fibroblast. J Invest Dermatol 90: 420–424.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  21. Phillips CL et al (1994). Effects of ascorbic acid on proliferation and collagen synthesis in relation to the donor age of human dermal fibroblasts. J Invest Dermatol 103: 228–232.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  22. Nusgens BV et al (2001) Topically applied vitamin C enhances the mRNA level of collagens I and III, their processing enzymes and tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1 in the human dermis. J Invest Dermatol 116: 853–859.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  23. Takashima H et al (1971) Ascorbic acid esters and skin pigmentation. Am Perfum Cosmet 86: 29–36.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  24. Pinnell SR (2001) Topical l-ascorbic acid: Percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatol Surg 27: 137–142

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  25. Pinnell, Sheldon R (1988) New stabilized ascorbic acid solution-percutaneous absorption and effect on relative collagen synthesis. Journal of Cutaneous Aging & Cosmetic Dermatology 1(2)

    Google Scholar 

  26. Hoppe U, et al (1999) Coenzyme Q10, a cutaneous antioxidant and energizer. Biofactors 9: 37

    Google Scholar 

  27. DiNardo J et al (2004) Antioxidants compared in a new protocol to measure protective capacity against oxidative stress—part II, American Academy of Dermatology, Washington D.C.

    Google Scholar 

  28. Moini H et al (2002) Antioxidant and prooxidant activities of alpha-lipoic acid and dihydrolipoic acid. Toxicol Appl Pharmacol 182(1)84–90

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  29. Podda M (2001) Activity of alpha-lipoic acid in the protection against oxidative stress in skin. Curr Prol Dermatol 29: 43–51

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  30. Rijnkels JM et al (2003) Photoprotection by antioxidants against UVB-radiation-induced damage in pig skin organ culture. Radiat Res 159(2): 210–217

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  31. Beitner H (2003) Randomized, placebo-controlled, double blind study on the clinical efficacy of a cream containing 5% alpha-lipoic acid related to photoageing of facial skin. Br J Dermatol 149(4): 841–849

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  32. Katiyar SK et al (2000) Green tea and skin. Arch Dermatol 136: 989–989

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  33. Katiyar SK et al (1999) Prevention of UVB-induced immunosuppression in mice by the green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate may be associated with alterations in IL-10 and IL-12 production. Carcinogenesis 20: 2117–2124

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  34. Zhao JF et al (1999) Green tea protects against psoralen plus UVA-induced photochemical damage to skin. J Invest Dermatol 113: 1070–1075

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  35. Katiyar SK, Elmets CA (2001) Green tea polyphenolic antioxidants and skin photoprotection. Int J Oncol 18: 1307–13013

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  36. Katiyar SK (2001) Green tea polyphenol (−)-epigallocatechin-3-gallatetreatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. J Leukoc Biol 69: 719–726

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  37. Bagchi D et al (2000) Free radicals and grape seed proanthocyanidin extract: importance in human health and disease prevention. Toxicology 148: 187–197

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  38. Bagchi D et al (1997) Oxygen free radical scavenging abilities of vitamins C and E, and a grape seed proanthocyanidin extract in vitro. Res Commun Mol Pathol Pharmacol 95: 179–189

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  39. Zhao J et al (1999). Anti-tumor-promoting activity of a polyphenolic fraction isolated from grape seeds in the mouse skin two-stage initiation-promotion protocol and identification of procyanidin B5-3’-gallate as the most effective antioxidant constituent. Carcinogenesis 20: 1737–1745

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  40. Serwin AB, Chodynicka B (2001) The role of selenium in skin. Wiad Lek (Poland) 54(3–4): 202–207

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  41. Greul AK et al (2002) Photoprotection of UV-irradiated human skin: an antioxidative combination of vitamins E and C, carotenoids, selenium and proanthocyanidins. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 15(5): 307–15

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  42. Cesarini JP et al (2002) Immediate effects of UV radiation on the skin: modification by an antioxidant complex containing carotenoids. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed 19(4): 182–189

    Google Scholar 

  43. Eichler O et al (2002) Divergent optimum levels of lycopene, beta-carotene and lutein protecting against UVB irradiation in human fibroblasts. Photochem Photobiol 75(5): 503–506

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  44. Roos TC et al (1998) Retinoid metabolism in the skin. Pharmacol Rev 50(20): 315–333

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  45. Kligman AM et al (1986) Topical tretinoin for photoaged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol 15: 836–859

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  46. Varani J et al (2000) Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. J Invest Dermatol 114: 480–486

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  47. Djerassi D (2001) The role of vitamins in high performance cosmetics. Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacturers Worldwide

    Google Scholar 

  48. Fisher GJ et al (1998) Retinoic acid receptor-gamma in human epidermis preferentially traps all-trans retinoic acid as its ligand rather than 9-cis retinoic acid. J Investig Dermatol 110: 297–300

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  49. Prystowsky JH (2001) Topical retinoids. In: Wolverton, SE (ed) Comprehensive dermatologic drug therapy. Saunders, Philadelphia pp 578–594

    Google Scholar 

  50. Duell EA et al (1997) Unoccluded retinol penetrates human skin in vivo more effectively than unoccluded retinyl palmitate or retinoic acid. J Investig Dermatol 109: 301–305

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  51. Duell EA (1996) Retinoic acid isomers applied to human skin in vivo each induce a 4-hydroxylase that inactivates only trans-retinoic acid. J Investig Dermatol (106): 316–320

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  52. Weiser H (1987) Wound healing effects of topical application of panthenol on mammalian skin. Hoffmann-La Roche

    Google Scholar 

  53. Lacroix B (1988) Effect of pantothenic acid on fibroblast cell cultures. Res Exp Med 188: 391–396

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  54. Tanno O et al (2000) Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol 143: 524–531

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  55. Johnson AW (2002) Hydroxy acids. Skin moisturization. Cosmetic Science and Technology Series 25: 323–352

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  56. Grimes P et al (2004) The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin. Cutis 73(Suppl 2): 3–13

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  57. Edison BL et al (2004) A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxy acid regimen. Cutis 73(Suppl 2): 14–17

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  58. Leveque JL, Saint-Leger D (2002) Salicylic acid and derivatives. Skin moisturization. Cosmetic Science and Technology Series 25: 353–363

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  59. Zulli, F. et al (1998) Improving skin function with CM-glucan, a biological response modifier from yeast. Int J Cosmet Sci 20(2): 79–86

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  60. Leibovich SJ, Danon D (1980) Promotion of wound repair in mice by application of glucan. J Reticuloendothel Soc 27: 1–11

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  61. Czop JK, Austen KF (1985) A beta-glucan inhibitable receptor on human monocytes: its identity with the phagocytic receptor for particulate activators of the alternative complement pathway. J Immunol 134: 2588–2593

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  62. Zulli F et al (1995) Photoprotective effects of CMglucan on cultured human cells. Euro Cosmetics 11: 46–50

    Google Scholar 

  63. Elmets CA (1992) Photoprotective effects of sunscreens in cosmetics on sunburn and Langerhans cell photodamage. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed 9: 113

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  64. Hersh T (2003) Reparatives for chemosurgery and laser therapy. United States Patent: 6,630,442

    Google Scholar 

  65. Keller SJ et al (1991) Isolation and characterization of a tissue respiratory factor from bakers yeast. J Cell Biol 304: 21

    Google Scholar 

  66. Bentley JP et al (1990) Peptides from live yeast cell derivative stimulate wound healing. Arch Surg 125: 641–646

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  67. Pickart L, Lovejoy S (1987) Biological effects and the mechanism of action of the plasma copper-binding growth factor glycyl-l-histidyl-l-lysine. Methods Enzymol 147: 314–328

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  68. Harris ED (1992) Copper as a cofactor and regulator of copper, zinc superoxide dismutase. J Nutr 122: 636–640)

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  69. Pickart L et al (1986) Gly-l-his-l-lys: copper (II) — A human plasma factor with superoxide dismutaselike and wound-healing properties, In: Rolitio (ed) Superoxide and superoxide dismutase in chemistry, biology and medicine. Elsevier, Amsterdam pp 555–558

    Google Scholar 

  70. Leyden JJ et al (2002) Skin care benefits of copper peptide containing facial creams. Amer Acad Derm Poster Abstract

    Google Scholar 

  71. Leydon JJ et al (2002) Skin benefits of copper-peptide-containing eye creams. Amer Acad Derm Poster Abstract

    Google Scholar 

  72. Katayama K et al (1993) A pentapeptide from type I procollagen promotes extracellular matrix production J Biol Chem 268: 9941–9944

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  73. Gutierrez LM et al (1997) A peptide that mimics the c-terminal sequence of SNAP-25 inhibits secretory vesicle docking in chromaffin cells. J Biol Chem 272: 2634–2639

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  74. Blanes-Mira C et al (2004) Small peptides patterned after the N-terminus domain of SNAP25 inhibit SNARE complex assembly and regulated exocytosis. J Neurochem 88(1): 124–135

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. 88 Bayview Ave., Great Neck, NY, 11021, USA

    Jeannette Graf M.D., F.A.A.D.

Authors
  1. Jeannette Graf M.D., F.A.A.D.
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

  1. 2311 M Street NW Suite 504, Washington, D.C., 20037, USA

    Cheryl M. Burgess M.D., F.A.A.D.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2005 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Graf, J. (2005). Anti-Aging Skin Care Ingredient Technologies. In: Burgess, C.M. (eds) Cosmetic Dermatology. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/3-540-27333-6_2

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/3-540-27333-6_2

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-540-23064-9

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-540-27333-2

  • eBook Packages: MedicineMedicine (R0)

Publish with us

Policies and ethics

Search

Navigation