3.7 Summary
Chapters 2 and 3 together present the characteristics and analysis of changes in the characteristics as a wave propagates from deep water into the point of breaking and runup on a slope. This is done only for the two-dimensional (x, z) plane as waves propagate along a nearshore profile. For a complete analysis of wave propagation to the shore the three-dimensional effects of wave refraction, diffraction, and reflection must also be considered.
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3.8 References
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(2006). Finite-Amplitude Waves. In: Basic Coastal Engineering. Springer, Boston, MA. https://doi.org/10.1007/0-387-23333-4_3
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