Coyoyo Silk: A Potential Sustainable Luxury Fiber
- 9 Downloads
Capitalism, new technologies, synthetic fibers improvement, accelerated growth, and the never-ending pursuit of efficient and low-cost models of production are not only destroying environment but also demolishing cultures, ancestral knowledge, and risking natural fibers.
Ancastí, Catamarca, Argentina, is the home to a very special wild silk named coyoyo silk, which could be considered sustainable luxury, but it is actually unknown. This chapter aims at enriching and enlightening the fashion industry with sustainable raw material that is being left. Sustainable luxury means returning to the ancestral essence of luxury, respecting social and environmental issues; it becomes a way of empowering and strengthening local communities. Doña Pabla Quiroga is the last known craftswoman who works with coyoyo silk and maintains this ancestral knowledge alive by creating unique pieces and training women in her neighborhood.
This chapter studies the origin of mount silk, the ancestral knowledge required to process it, the spinning and weaving processes, the potential of this material as sustainable raw material, and how it can turn into sustainable luxury. Through interviews and photographs, we will explore the whole process of obtaining and processing the fiber, and we will focus on problems and hardships artisans face to maintain this local and cultural legacy alive.
KeywordsSustainable luxury Coyoyo silk Craftsmanship Cultural heritage Ancestral knowledge Fashion and textiles
- 1.Corcuera R (2000) Ponchos de América. De los Andes a las pampas. Fundación CEPPA Ediciones, Buenos AiresGoogle Scholar
- 2.Corcuera (2006) Mujeres de seda y tierra. Editorial Argentina, Buenos AiresGoogle Scholar
- 3.Erhenfeld JR (2013) Flourishing, a frank conversation about sustainability. Standford University Press, StanfordGoogle Scholar
- 4.Fletcher K (2008) Sustainable fashion and textiles, design journeys. Eathscan, London/New YorkGoogle Scholar
- 5.Gardetti MA (2011) Sustainable luxury in Latin America. In: Conference delivered at the seminar sustainable luxury & design within the framework of IE, Instituto de la Empresa, Business School MBA, Madrid, SpainGoogle Scholar
- 7.Gardetti MA, Torres AL (2015) Introduction. In: Sustainable luxury, managing social and environmental performance in iconic brands. Greenleaf Publishing Ltd, SheffieldGoogle Scholar
- 9.Kapferer JN, Bastein V (2009) The luxury strategy: break the rules of marketing to build luxury brands. Kogan Page, LondonGoogle Scholar
- 10.Littrell MA, Dickson MA (1999) Social responsibility in the global market, fair trade of cultural products. SAGE Publication Inc, Thousand OaksGoogle Scholar
- 11.Littrell MA, Dickson MA (2010) Artisans and fair trade, crafting development. Kumarian Press, SterlingGoogle Scholar
- 13.Meléndez M (2005) Visualizing difference: the rhetoric of clothing in colonial Spanish America. In: The Latin American fashion reader. Berg, New YorkGoogle Scholar
- 14.Muratovski G (2015) Sustainable consumption, luxury branding as a catalyst for social change. In: Gardetti MA, Torres AL (eds) Sustainable luxury, managing social and environmental performance in iconic brands. Greenleaf Publishing Ltd, SheffieldGoogle Scholar
- 17.Thomas D (2008) Deluxe, how luxury lost its luster? Penguin, LondonGoogle Scholar
- 18.Turney J (2009) The culture of knitting. Berg, Oxford/New YorkGoogle Scholar
- 19.Turunen LLM (2018) Interpretations of luxury exploring the consumer perspective. Palgrave Macmillan, LondonGoogle Scholar