Advertisement

Future Luxury: Fashioning Wellbeing Through Holistic Design

  • Kirsten ScottEmail author
Chapter
Part of the Palgrave Advances in Luxury book series (PAAL)

Abstract

In this chapter Scott redefines the concept of luxury in the anthropocene era to encompass human and environmental health and wellbeing and proposes ways in which small, luxury, fashion brands might respond to this. Drawing upon conceptual frameworks more frequently associated with the natural sciences, architecture and engineering—such as biophilia, biodesign and biomechanics—and upon research generated by the Barkcloth Research Network, Scott offers a benign and truly holistic luxury, fashion design model that aims to promote the wellbeing of its wearers, of its makers and of the planet and which challenges the conventional meanings of luxury.

Keywords

Holistic design Wellbeing Biodesign Barkcloth Luxury fashion Neocraft 

References

  1. Abel, Jessica P., Cheryl L. Buff, and Sarah A. Burr. 2016. “Social Media and the Fear of Missing Out: Scale Development and Assessment.” Journal of Business and Economics Research 14 (1): 33–41.  https://doi.org/10.19030/jber.v14i1.9554. Accessed on 17 February 2019.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  2. Alfoldy, Sandra, and Nova Scotia College of Art and Design. 2007. NeoCraft: Modernity and the Crafts. Halifax, NS: Press of the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design.Google Scholar
  3. Appiah, Kwame A. 1985. “An Aesthetics for the Art of Adornment.” In Beauty by Design: The Aesthetics of African Adornment, edited by Marie-Therese Brincard, 15–19. New York: The African American Institute.Google Scholar
  4. Armstrong, Cosette M., Kirsi Niinimäki, and Chunmin Lang. 2016. “Towards Design Recipes to Curb the Clothing Carbohydrate Binge.” The Design Journal 19 (1): 159–181.  https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2016.1109207. Accessed on 22 February 2019.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  5. Bell, Simon, and Catherine Ward Thompson. 2014. “Human Engagement with Forest Environments: Implications for Physical and Mental Health and Wellbeing.” In Challenges and Opportunities for the World’s Forests in the 21st Century: Forestry Sciences, edited by Trevor Fenning, Vol. 81, 71–92. Dordrecht: Springer Netherlands.  https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-007-7076-8_5. Accessed on 4 May 2019.Google Scholar
  6. Bendell, Jem, and Anthony Kleanthous. 2007. Deeper Luxury. http://assets.wwf.org.uk/downloads/luxury_report.pdf.
  7. Benyus, Janine. 2008. “A Good Place to Settle: Biomimicry, Biophilia, and the Return of Nature’s Inspiration to Architecture.” In Biophilic Design: The Theory, Science and Practice of Bringing Buildings to Life, edited by Stephen R. Kellert, Judith Heerwagen, and Martin Mador, 27–42. Hoboken, NJ: Wiley.Google Scholar
  8. Bina, Jasmine. 2018. Cited in Pinnock, Olivia. 2018. “No One in Fashion Is Surprised Burberry Burnt £28 Million of Stock.” Forbes, July 20. https://www.forbes.com/sites/oliviapinnock/2018/07/20/no-one-in-fashion-is-surprised-burberry-burnt-28-million-of-stock/#3cf18bde4793. Accessed on 16 February 2019.
  9. Brown, Sass. 2015. “Can Global Craft and Artisanship Be the Future of Luxury Fashion.” Paper presented at Product Lifetimes and the Environment Conference (PLATE), Nottingham Trent University, June 17–19. https://www.plateconference.org/category/conference-2015-proceedings-papers/. Accessed on 17 February 2019.
  10. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. 2019. Well Being Concepts. https://www.cdc.gov/hrqol/wellbeing.htm#three. Accessed on 4 May 2019.
  11. Chiao, Ying H., Jennifer Y. Chang, Gerald L. Riskowski, Wai K. Chan, Jinn T. Lai, and Audrey C. Chang. 2016. “Antimicrobial Activity of Indigowoad (Isatis indigotica Fort) and Plains Wild Indigo (Baptisia bracteata) Roots.” Research Journal of Medicinal Plants 10 (3): 237–245. https://scialert.net/abstract/?doi=rjmp.2016.237.245. Accessed on 4 May 2019.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  12. Coutts, Christopher, and Micah Hahn. 2015. “Green Infrastructure, Ecosystem Services, and Human Health.” International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health 12: 9768–9798. Basel: MDPI AG. http://www.mdpi.com/1660-4601/12/8/9768/htm. Accessed on 4 May 2019.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  13. Craft Revival Trust, UNESCO, and Artesanias de Colombia. 2005. Designers Meet Artisans: A Practical Guide. http://unesdoc.unesco.org/images/0014/001471/147132eo.pdf. Accessed on 9 September 2017.
  14. Cultural Research Centre. 2000. Dictionary: Lusoga-English, English-Lusoga. Jinja, Uganda: Cultural Research Centre.Google Scholar
  15. Ferrier, Morwenna. 2018. “Why Does Burberry Destroy Its Products and How Is It Justified?” The Guardian, July 20. https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/jul/20/why-does-burberry-destroy-its-products-q-and-a.
  16. Gardetti, Miguel A., and Maria E. Giron, eds. 2016. Sustainable Luxury and Social Entrepreneurship: Volume II, More Stories from the Pioneers. Sheffield: Greenleaf Publishing.Google Scholar
  17. Gardetti, Miguel A. 2014. “Stories from the Social Pioneers in the Sustainable Luxury Sector: A Conceptual Vision.” In Sustainable Luxury and Social Entrepreneurship: Stories from the Pioneers, edited by Miguel A. Gardetti and Maria E. Giron, 23–34. Sheffield: Greenleaf Publishing.Google Scholar
  18. Global Wellness Institute. 2018. Global Wellness Economy Monitor. https://globalwellnessinstitute.org/industry-research/2018-global-wellness-economy-monitor/. Accessed on 16 February 2019.
  19. Global Wellness Summit. 2018. 2019 Wellness Industry Trend Report. https://www.globalwellnesssummit.com/2019-global-wellness-trends/.
  20. Grinde, Bjorn, and Greta Grindal Patil. 2009. “Biophilia: Does Visual Contact with Nature Impact on Health and Well-Being?” International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health 6 (9): 2332–2343.  https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph6092332.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  21. Gupta, Deepti. 2011. “Design and Engineering of Functional Clothing.” Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research 36 (4): 321–326. http://nopr.niscair.res.in/handle/123456789/13226. Accessed on 4 May 2019.
  22. Gutsatz, Michel, and Klaus Heine. 2018. “Luxury Brand-Building and Development: New Global Challenges, New Business Models.” Journal of Brand Management 25 (5): 409–410.  https://doi.org/10.1057/s41262-018-0093-5. Accessed on 22 February 2019.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  23. Hansen, Margaret M., Reo Jones, and Kirsten Tocchini. 2017. “Shinrin-Yoku (Forest Bathing) and Nature Therapy: A State-of-the-Art Review.” International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health 14 (8): 851.  https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph14080851. Accessed on 17 February 2019.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  24. Hashmi, Zeynep G. 2017. “Redefining the Essence of Sustainable Luxury Management: The Slow Value Creation Model.” In Sustainable Management of Luxury: Environmental Footprints and Eco-design of Products and Processes, edited by Miguel A. Gardetti and Maria E. Giron, 3–27. Sheffield: Greenleaf Publishing.Google Scholar
  25. Health and Safety Executive. 2018. Work Related Stress, Depression or Anxiety Statistics in Great Britain, 2018. http://www.hse.gov.uk/statistics/causdis/stress.pdf. Accessed on 16 February 2019.
  26. Hennigs, Nadine, Klaus-Peter Wiedmann, Christiane Klarmann, and Stefan Behrens. 2013. “Sustainability as Part of the Luxury Essence.” The Journal of Corporate Citizenship 58: 25–35.  https://doi.org/10.9774/GLEAF.4700.2013.de.00005. Accessed on 9 February 2019.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  27. Jyothirmi, Singothu, and Sasmita Panda. 2016. “Ayurvastra Herbal Clothing (A New Technology to Heal Naturally).” International Journal of Advanced Research and Innovative Ideas in Education 2 (4): 1166–1171. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/307580444_AYURVASTRA_-_HERBAL_CLOTHING_A_new_technology_to_heal_naturally. ISSN(O)-2395-4396.
  28. Kapferer, Jean-Noel. 2010. “All That Glitters Is Not Green: The Challenge of Sustainable Luxury.” 40–45. www.europeanbusinessreview.com/. Accessed on 17 February 2019.
  29. Kapferer, Jean-Noel, and Vincent Bastien. 2012. The Luxury Strategy: Break the Rules of Marketing to Build Luxury Brands. 2nd ed. Philadelphia, PA: Kogan Page.Google Scholar
  30. Kellert, Stephen, R., Judith Heerwagen, and Martin Mador, eds. 2008. Biophilic Design: The Theory, Science, and Practice of Bringing Buildings to Life. London: Wiley.Google Scholar
  31. Kennedy, G., and E. Bolat. 2017. “Meet the HENRYs: A Hybrid Focus Group Study of Conspicuous Luxury Consumption in the Social Media Context.” Paper presented at the Academy of Marketing Conference 2017, Hull, United Kingdom, June 3–7. https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/84144510.pdf.
  32. Mader, Lindsay Stafford. 2011. “Ayurvastra: Dyeing Fabric with Medicinal Ayurvedic Plants.” HerbalGram: The Journal of the American Botanical Society 92: 16–18. http://cms.herbalgram.org/herbalgram/issue92/ORGNEWS-ayurvastra.html?ts=1551512695&signature=fbb8e8addee584a7c4369ebc9beec3aa. Accessed on 19 February 2019.
  33. Maisonrouge, Ketty Pucci-Sisti. 2013. The Luxury Alchemist. New York, NY: Assouline.Google Scholar
  34. McRobbie, Angela, Dan Strutt, Carolina Bandinelli, and Bettina Springer. 2016. “Fashion Micro-enterprises in London, Berlin, Milan.” CREATE Working Paper 2016/13, November 2016.  https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.162668.
  35. Mental Health Foundation. 2018. Stressed Nation: 74% of UK ‘Overwhelmed or Unable to Cope’ at Some Point in the Past Year, May 14. https://www.mentalhealth.org.uk/news/stressed-nation-74-uk-overwhelmed-or-unable-cope-some-point-past-year. Accessed on 19 February 2019.
  36. Nakazibwe, V. 2005. “Barkcloth of the Baganda People of Southern Uganda: A Record of Continuity and Change from the Late 20th Century to the Early 21st Century.” PhD Thesis, Middlesex University. http://ethos.bl.uk/SearchResults.do.
  37. New Economics Foundation (NEF). 2006. The (Un)Happy Planet Index: An Index of Human Well-Being and Environmental Impact. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/312602893_The_unHappy_Planet_Index_An_index_of_human_well-being_and_environmental_impact. Accessed on 17 February 2019.
  38. Pinnock, Olivia. 2018. “No One in Fashion Is Surprised Burberry Burnt £28 Million of Stock.” Forbes, July 20. https://www.forbes.com/sites/oliviapinnock/2018/07/20/no-one-in-fashion-is-surprised-burberry-burnt-28-million-of-stock/#3cf18bde4793. Accessed on 16 February 2019.
  39. Putra, R.R.F.A., D.D. Veridianti, N. Evelyn, D. Brilliant, G. Rosellinny, C. Suraz, and A. Sumarpo. 2018. “Immunostimulant Effect from Phytoncide of Forest Bathing to Prevent the Development of Cancer.” Advanced Science Letters 24 (9): 6653–6659(7).  https://doi.org/10.1166/asl.2018.12804. Accessed on 17 February 2019.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  40. Rwawiire, Samson, and Blanka Tomkova. 2013. “Thermo-physiological and Comfort Properties of Ugandan Barkcloth from Ficus Natalensis.” The Journal of the Textile Institute 105 (6, 2014): 648–653.  https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2013.843849.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  41. Schumacher, Ernst F. 1974. Small Is Beautiful: A Study of Economics as if People Mattered. London: Blond & Briggs.Google Scholar
  42. Scott, Kirsten. 2011. “Meeting the Maker: Warm Irregularity in Traditional African Craft Practice.” Craft Research Journal 2 (1, June): 61–82.  https://doi.org/10.1386/crre.2.61_1.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  43. Scott, Kirsten. 2012. “Pidgin Plait: Fashioning Cross-Cultural Communication Through Craft.” PhD Thesis. http://researchonline.rca.ac.uk/view/creators/Scott=3AKirsten=3A=3A.html.
  44. Scott, Kirsten. 2018. “Borrowed Cloth: A Holistic Design Intervention for Sustainable Fashion and Wellbeing.” Paper presented at Global Fashion Conference October 2018, London College of Fashion, October 31–November 1. http://gfc-conference.eu/proceedings/.
  45. UNESCO. 2005. Bark Cloth Making in Uganda. http://www.unesco.org/archives/multimedia/?pg=33&s=films_details&id=641. Accessed on 16 February 2019.
  46. USAID. 2006. Global Market Assessment for Handicrafts. https://pdf.usaid.gov/pdf_docs/PNADN210.pdf. Accessed on 9 February 2019.
  47. Wells, Kate. 2013. “Colour, Health and Wellbeing: The Hidden Qualities and Properties of Natural Dyes.” Journal of the International Colour Association 11: 28–36. http://hdl.handle.net/10545/297603. Accessed on 15 February 2019.
  48. World Health Organization. 2019. Promotion of Mental Well-Being. http://www.searo.who.int/entity/mental_health/promotion-of-mental-well-being/en/#. Accessed on 18 February 2019.
  49. Wu, Meng-Shan S., Isabella Chaney, Cheng-Hao Steve Chen, Bang Nguyen, and T.C. Melewar. 2015. “Luxury Fashion Brands: Factors Influencing Young Female Consumers’ Luxury Fashion Purchasing in Taiwan.” Qualitative Market Research: An International Journal 18 (3): 298–319.  https://doi.org/10.1108/QMR-02-2014-0016.CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Copyright information

© The Author(s) 2020

Authors and Affiliations

  1. 1.Istituto MarangoniLondonUK

Personalised recommendations