Chengdu: The Centre is the Edge

Abstract

In Chengdu, in the springtime, the best conversation can be found in the outdoor terraces of the teahouses. When you first arrive, you feel dismayed at the chances of finding a seat. The sight of several hundred people all sitting close together in small circles, laughing and talking loudly, shouting for the attention of the waiters so they’ll pour out more boiling water from their huge aluminium kettles is all a bit daunting. Just walk around there, though, in a relaxed way. Someone will move their bag or coat from the chair beside them and gesture for you to sit down, probably moving the chair a little so that your view of the pond will be just right.