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Abstract

This chapter examines the history of Pearce’s first two firms, Pearce & Plenty and the British Tea Table Co. (1886–1898), years in which he rose to dominance as the City’s premier mass caterer to the working class in response to the advent of the mass market. Bourgeois workers—clerical employees and office workers—formed the pivotal group motivating market changes in the City—in part because of their key skills, notably shorthand and typewriting. I reject Lyons’ view of the market, which divided changes into two periods—before Lyons’ teashops (pre-1894) and after their establishment (from 1894) as the basis for supporting Lyons’ role as fostering a “teashop revolution.” What Lyons featured was light refreshments to the middle classes, especially women, offering little competition to the working classes. The various factors responsible for dramatic changes in catering habits in the 1890s are explored.

By appealing to a broader sector of the public wanting better food sold at “value for money,” on the one hand, and instituting economies of scale with its teashops, on the other, Lyons changed catering in the light refreshment sector, though not to the extent its company historian believes. A better perspective for analysis would be the Edwardian era in which Lyons’ weathered one of the worst catering crises since the mass market’s arrival far better than its competitors as a result of its greater market diversity, deeper financial pockets, broader network of stores and concentrated nexus of supplies. It was not so much Lyons’ teashops as changes in the catering market that prompted Pearce to reappraise his strategy.

This chapter explores the reasons for Pearce’s successful tenure as managing director, stressing his managerial philosophy, paternalistic relationship with his staff and concern for his customers.

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Notes

  1. 1.

    Coffee Tavern Gazette, 22 Jan. 1887.

  2. 2.

    “Representative Temperance Caterers: No. 1, Mr. John Pearce,” Temperance Caterer, 30 July 1887, 23 March 1889 and 15 June 1897; G. Shaw, “The Evolution and Impact of Large-Scale Retailing in Britain,” in John Benson and Gareth Shaw (eds.) The Retailing Industry, vol. 2: The Coming of the Mass Market, 1800–1945 (London: I.B. Tauris, 1999), p. 251. In mass market national sales, Pearce’s Refreshment Rooms easily outstripped the Liverpool British Workman Public House Co, the biggest and oldest of the coffee tavern companies. Compared with the 25,000 meals daily sold in the latter’s sixty-two houses (1887), Pearce’s dispensed 30,000 meals daily in its 11 depots (1889) (“Representative Temperance Caterers: No. 2, Mr. W.H. Peskett,” Temperance Caterer, 3 Sept. 1887).

  3. 3.

    “Caterers for the Common People,” Review of Reviews 14 (1896): 523; John Burnett, England Eating Out: A Social History of Eating Out in England from 1830 to the Present (London: Pearson, 2004), p. 118; W.J. Wintle, “Round the London Restaurants,” Windsor Magazine 4 (1896): 447; Rev. James J. Ellis, Pluck, Patience and Power: The Life Story of John Pearce of “Pearce and Plenty” (London: H.R. Allenson, [1910]), pp. 130, 190; Anthony Clayton, London’s Coffee Houses: A Stimulating Story (London: Historical Publications, 2003), p. 136; Marguerite Williams, John Pearce : The Man Who Played the Game (London: Religious Tract Society, 1928), p. 121; Temperance Caterer, 30 July 1887.

  4. 4.

    Wintle, “London Restaurants,” p. 448; Financial Times, 26 Aug. 1926; Ellis, Pluck, p. 143; S. J. Adair Fitz-Gerald, “Chats with Caterers: John Pearce,” Caterer and Hotel-Keepers’ Gazette, 16 Jan. 1905; Temperance Caterer, 15 June 1897; Refreshment News, 15 July 1889.

  5. 5.

    “Mr. John Pearce: The Man and His Work,” British Journal of Catering 3 (15 July 1889): 9.

  6. 6.

    Refreshment News, 5 May 1888.

  7. 7.

    Williams, Pearce , p. 148.

  8. 8.

    Financial Times, 1 Nov. 1889; Evidence of the Royal Commission on Liquor Licensing Laws, 1898, 36 (Cmnd. 8694), p. 243.

  9. 9.

    Harold Bolce, “Foreseeing What the People Want: How Initiative, Imagination and a Sense of Value Created an Industry from an Idea,” System 26 (1914): 160; Williams, Pearce , pp. 148–49; Ellis, Pluck, pp. 138–40; Refreshment News, 11 Jan. 1890; [Interview with John Pearce], “Fifty Years of Catering,” Daily News, 18 Oct. 1911.

  10. 10.

    I want to thank Trevor Lloyd for the interpretation on which this paragraph and the following one are based.

  11. 11.

    Lee Holcombe, Victorian Ladies at Work: Middle-Class Working Women in England and Wales, 1850–1914 (Newton Abbot: David & Charles, 1973), p. 141.

  12. 12.

    Gladys Carnaffan, “Commercial Education and the Female Office Worker,” in Gregory Anderson (ed.), The White-Blouse Revolution: Female Office Workers Since 1870 (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1988), pp. 78–80, 82; Holcombe, Ladies at Work, pp. 142–44.

  13. 13.

    Ellis, Pluck, pp. 139–40.

  14. 14.

    A. Jepson, “The Coffee Tavern Movement in London,” Supplement to the Temperance Caterer, 10 Sept. 1887; Temperance Caterer, 15 June 1894.

  15. 15.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 Oct. 1892; Ellis, Pluck, p. 140.

  16. 16.

    Bolce, “Foreseeing What the People Want,” p. 160; Williams, Pearce , pp. 148–49; Ellis, Pluck, pp. 138–41; Refreshment News, 11 Jan. 1890. For Spiers and Pond, see Bryan Morgan, “A Short History of Spiers and Pond,” in Bryan Morgan, Express Journal, 1864–1964: A Centenary History of the Express Dairy Company Limited (London: Newman Neame, 1964), pp. 134–35.

  17. 17.

    Refreshment News, 16 Aug. 1890 and 14 March 1891.

  18. 18.

    For lunch, Pearce & Plenty patrons spent 3d. eating two eggs with a mug of cocoa during winter, while at dinner, they laid out 6d., consuming steak pudding and potatoes (Evidence of the Royal Commission on Liquor Licensing Laws, 1898, 36 (Cmnd. 8694), p. 243).

  19. 19.

    Daily Mail, 17 Nov. 1900; Evidence on Liquor Licensing Laws, pp. 241–42.

  20. 20.

    See pp. 11–16 for further discussion of this point.

  21. 21.

    Peter Bird, The First Food Empire: A History of J. Lyons & Co. (Chichester: Phillimore & Co., 2000), p. 38.

  22. 22.

    Edward Callow, “City Taverns, Chop and Coffee Houses, & C.,” City Press, reproduced in the Temperance Caterer, 15 Jan. 1898; Coffee Public-House News, 1 May 1883.

  23. 23.

    Charles Booth, “Pubs and Cocoa Rooms,” Life and Labour of the People in London, vol. 1 (London: Williams and Norgate, 1889), p. 116; Winskill and Thomas, “British Workman Public Houses,” Temperance Movement in Liverpool, p. 75; B.F. Babcock, “The Liverpool Cocoa Rooms,” Methodist Temperance Magazine 9 (1876): 221–23; Heasman, Evangelicals in Action, pp. 142–43; Temperance Caterer, 3 Nov. 1888; Coffee Tavern Gazette, 8 Jan. 1887; Edinburgh Evening News, 17 June 1897; Economist, 21 May 1898, and 26–27 May 1899.

  24. 24.

    See pp. 60, 100 for demand as a factor. For an overview, see Anna Davin, “City Girls: Young Women, New Employment, and the City, London, 1880–1910,” in Mary Jo Maynes, Birgitte Søland and Chirstina Benninghaus (eds.), Secret Gardens, Satanic Mills: Placing Girls in European History, 1750–1960 (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2005), pp. 209–23.

  25. 25.

    See Bird, Lyons, pp. 47–55.

  26. 26.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 Nov. 1900; Lynne Walker, “Vistas of Pleasure: Women Consumers of Urban Space in the West End of London, 1850–1900,” in Clarissa Campbell Orr (ed.), Women in the Victorian Art World (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1995), p. 79.

  27. 27.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 Oct. 1910; Mrs. C.S. Paul, “Lunch for Ladies in London,” Hearth & Home No. 578 (12 June 1902): 274; Dora Greenwell McChesney, “The World of the ABC,” Daily Mail, 15 Apr. 1903. Similar hostility to women encroaching on traditional male space occurred in the West End (“Female Poaching on Male Preserves,” Westminster Review 129 (1888): 293).

  28. 28.

    Paul, “Lunch for Ladies,” p. 274; Refreshment News, 30 Aug. 1890; Temperance Caterer, 15 Apr. 1898.

  29. 29.

    Bird, Lyons, pp. 37, 42; Burnett, England Eats Out, p. 124.

  30. 30.

    Financial Times, 12 June 1900 and 1 Dec. 1902.

  31. 31.

    Ibid., 7 Nov. 1905; Temperance Caterer, 15 Jan. 1909.

  32. 32.

    Bird, Lyons, p. 38. Patrons could select heavier meat meals in the winter.

  33. 33.

    Coffee Tavern Gazette, 7 Aug. 1886 and 8 Jan. 1887; Temperance Caterer, 15 June 1901 and 15 June 1902; Bird, Lyons, p. 37–8. See, pp. 11–14. Ye Mecca, for example, served just sandwiches, buns and pastry.

  34. 34.

    Bird, Lyons, p. 38.

  35. 35.

    Sales at BTT restaurants must be inferred from the company’s overall figures and the respective numbers of outlets for the Pearce & Plenty and the BTT. Temperance Caterer, 15 Oct. 1895.

  36. 36.

    Financial Times, 25 May 1899.

  37. 37.

    Wintle, “London Restaurants,” p. 448.

  38. 38.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 June 1898. Dividends ultimately reached 35% (Times, 31 May 1910).

  39. 39.

    Financial Report of Auditors for Pearce’s Dining and Refreshment Rooms and British Tea Table Co., 15 June 1897, Daily Mail, 16 June 1897.

  40. 40.

    Morning Post, 25 May 1898; Financial Times, 25 May 1899; Temperance Caterer, 15 June 1898.

  41. 41.

    Financial Report of Auditors for Pearce ’s Dining and Refreshment Rooms and British Tea Table Co., 15 June 1897, Daily Mail, 16 June 1897; Report by the Comptroller of the Companies Department for the Year Ending 31 Dec. 1909, Board of Trade, p. 16; Heasman, Evangelicals in Action, p. 142; Fitz-Gerald, “John Pearce”; Burnett, England Eats Out, pp. 117–18; Evidence on Liquor Licensing Laws, p. 240; Williams, Pearce , pp. 153–54; Bolce, “Foreseeing What the People Want,” p. 160.

  42. 42.

    Times, 31 May 1910; Evidence on Liquor Licensing Laws, p. 244.

  43. 43.

    British Tea Table Depots, 1908 (London: BTTC, 1908); Burnett, England Eats Out, p. 118.

  44. 44.

    Financial Times, 9 May 1905.

  45. 45.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 June 1899.

  46. 46.

    Ellis, Pluck, p. 143; Fitz-Gerald, “John Pearce,” p. 15; Temperance Caterer, 15 June 1897 and 15 June 1899.

  47. 47.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 June 1903.

  48. 48.

    Evidence on Liquor Licensing Laws, p. 244; Williams, Pearce , p. 150.

  49. 49.

    Morning Post, 12 May 1906; John Bull, 4 July 1908. See pp. 175–76 for discussion of what problems arose when Pearce no longer controlled the entire process of buying goods.

  50. 50.

    Evidence on Liquor Licensing Laws, p. 244; Temperance Caterer, 15 Apr. 1895, 15 Feb. 1898 and 15 June 1902; H. Dendy, “The Position of Women in Industry,” National Review 1616 (1894): 811. Unlike most other caterers, Lyons paid waitresses no salary, but allowed them to keep commissions, from which 1s. 9d. was deducted for weekly washing.

  51. 51.

    Ellis, Pluck, pp. 141–42.

  52. 52.

    Ibid., p. 131.

  53. 53.

    Temperance Caterer, 18 Jan. 1890.

  54. 54.

    Financial Times, 25 May 1899; Temperance Caterer, 15 June 1899.

  55. 55.

    Ellis, Pluck, pp. 131, 138, 142; Williams, Pearce , p. 150, 152.

  56. 56.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 Aug. 1900 and 15 Aug. 1907.

  57. 57.

    Ibid.

  58. 58.

    Coffee Public-House News, 1 Dec. 1885; Temperance Caterer, 9 Nov. 1889, 15 Aug. 1896 and 15 Feb. 1898; Burnett, England Eats Out, p. 126.

  59. 59.

    Williams, Pearce , pp. 125–27; [Interview with John Pearce], “Fifty Years of Catering.”

  60. 60.

    Ellis, Pluck, pp. 125–27; Williams, Pearce , p. 246.

  61. 61.

    Coffee Public-House News, 1 Dec. 1885; also see Temperance Caterer, 9 Nov. 1889, 15 Aug. 1896 and 15 Feb. 1898.

  62. 62.

    Coffee Public-House News, 1 Dec. 1885; Temperance Caterer, 7 Sept. and 9 Nov. 1889, 15 Aug. 1896 and 15 Feb. 1898. For another example, see Reynolds’s Newspaper, 27 Nov. 1892.

  63. 63.

    Ellis, Pluck, pp. 125–27, 133, 137–38; Williams, Pearce , pp. 136–37, 246.

  64. 64.

    Temperance Caterer, 21 Dec. 1889.

  65. 65.

    Ellis, Pluck, pp. 133–34; Coffee Public-House News, 1 Dec. 1885.

  66. 66.

    Coffee Public-House News, 15 Feb. 1903.

  67. 67.

    Ibid., 1 Sept. 1885.

  68. 68.

    George Rowell, The Old Vic Theatre: A History (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1992), p. 76.

  69. 69.

    Bolce, “Foreseeing What the People Want,” pp. 158–59; Williams, Pearce , pp. 101–03, 107–09; Pearce, “Coffee Stall,” p. 43; Ellis, Pluck, p. 132.

  70. 70.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 Aug. 1895; Carl Chinn, They Worked all their Lives: Women of the Urban Poor in England, 1880–1939 (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1988), pp. 21–7, 164–65; John Burnett (ed.), Destiny Obscure: Autobiographies of Childhood, Education and Family from the 1820s to the 1920s (Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1984), p. 237.

  71. 71.

    Evidence on Liquor Licensing Laws, pp. 244–45.

  72. 72.

    Pearce , “Coffee Stall,” p. 43; Temperance Caterer, 15 Aug. 1895.

  73. 73.

    Temperance Caterer, 15 June 1894, 15 Dec. 1895, and 15 July 1907; Williams, Pearce , p. 164.

  74. 74.

    Williams, Pearce , p. 164.

  75. 75.

    Ibid., p. 226.

  76. 76.

    Temperance Chronicle, 15 Dec. 1895.

  77. 77.

    Ellis, Pluck, pp. 110–19.

  78. 78.

    Figaro: 20 and 27 Aug. 1898; Daniel F. Powell to Editor, undated, 27 Aug. 1898.

  79. 79.

    Temperance Caterer, 9 Nov. 1889; Williams, Pearce , p. 90; Refreshment News, 14 Apr. 1888.

  80. 80.

    See pp. 156–57 for development of this point.

  81. 81.

    Ellis, Pluck, p. 205; Williams, Pearce , p. 147; Financial Times, 4 Jan. 1899.

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Gutzke, D.W. (2019). Advent of the Mass Market. In: John Pearce and the Rise of the Mass Food Market in London, 1870–1930. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-27095-7_5

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