Skip to main content
Log in

Morphodynamics of an Artificial Cobble Beach in Tianquan Bay, Xiamen, China

  • Published:
Journal of Ocean University of China Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

By tracking and monitoring the profile configuration, topography, and hydrodynamic factors of an artificial cobble beach in Tianquan Bay, Xiamen, China over three consecutive years after its completion, we analyzed the evolution of its profile configuration and plane morphology, and its storm response characteristics. The evolution of the profile configuration of the artificial cobble beach in Tianquan Bay can be divided into four stages. The beach was unstable during the initial stage after the beach nourishment the profile configuration changed obviously, and an upper concave composite cobble beach formed gradually, which was characterized by a steep upper part and a gentle lower part. In the second stage, the cobble beach approached dynamic equilibrium with minor changes in the profile configuration. At the third stage the beach was in a high-energy state under the influence of Typhoon Meranti, and the response of the artificial cobble beach differed significantly from that of the low-tide terrace sandy beach. Within a short time, there was net onshore transport of cobbles in the cross-shore direction. The beach face was eroded, the beach berm was accumulated, and the slope of the beach was steepened considerably. In the alongshore direction, there was notable transport of cobbles on the beach from east to west along the shore, and the total volume of the beach decreased by 4.5×103 m3, which accounted for 50% of the total amount of beach volume lost within three years. The fourth stage was the restoration stage after the typhoon, characterized by a little gentler profile slope and the increase in width and the decrease in height of beach berm. Because of the action of waves and the wave-driven longshore current caused by the specific terrain and landform conditions along the coast (e.g., coastal headlands, near-shore artificial structures, and reefs), the coastline of the artificial cobble beach gradually evolved from being essentially parallel to the artificial coast upon completion to a slightly curved parabolic shape, and three distinct erosion hotspots were formed on the west side of the cape and the artificial drainpipe, and the reefs. Generally, the adoption of cobbles for beach nourishment on this macro-tidal coast beach with severe erosion has yielded excellent stability and adaptability.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Institutional subscriptions

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  • Alegria-Arzaburu, A. R. D., and Masselink, G., 2010. Storm response and beach rotation on a gravel beach, Slapton Sands, U. K. Marine Geology, 278 (1–4): 77–99.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Aminti, P., Cipriani, L. E., and Pranzini, E., 2003. ‘Back to the Beach’: Converting Seawalls into Gravel Beaches. Springer, Dordrecht, Netherlands, 261–274.

    Google Scholar 

  • Anthony, E. J., 2005. Beach Erosion. Encyclopedia of Coastal Science. Springer, Dordrecht, Netherlands, 140–145.

    Google Scholar 

  • Aragonés, L., Garcia-Barba, J., García-Bleda, E., Lopez, I., and Serra, J. C., 2015. Beach nourishment impact on Posidonia oceanica: Case study of Poniente Beach (Benidorm, Spain). Ocean Engineering, 107 (7): 1–12.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ashton, A., List, J. H., Murray, A. B., and Farris, A. S., 2003. Links between erosional hotspots and alongshore sediment transport. Coastal Sediments’ 03, Annual Symposium on Coastal Engineering and Science of Coastal Sediment Processes, 1–13.

    Google Scholar 

  • Austin, M. J., and Buscombe, D., 2008. Morphological change and sediment dynamics of the beach step on a macrotidal gravel beach. Marine Geology, 249 (3–4): 167–183.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Austin, M. J., and Masselink, G., 2005. Infiltration and exfiltration on a steep gravel beach: Implications for sediment transport. Coastal Dynamics 2005: State of the Practice. Barcelone, 1–14.

  • Austin, M. J., and Masselink, G., 2006. Observations of morphological change and sediment transport on a steep gravel beach. Marine Geology, 229 (1–2): 59–77.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bergillos, R. J., Rodríguez-Delgado, C., and Ortega-Sánchez, M., 2017. Advances in management tools for modeling artificial nourishments in mixed beaches. Journal of Marine Systems, 172: 1–13.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bergillos, R. J., Ortega-Sánchez, M., and Losada, M. A., 2015. Foreshore evolution of a mixed sand and gravel beach: The case of Playa Granada (southern Spain). The Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments, San Diego, USA, 1–14.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bergillos, R. J., Ortega-Sánchez, M., Masselink, G., and Losada, M. A., 2016. Morpho-sedimentary dynamics of a micro-tidal mixed sand and gravel beach, Playa Granada, southern Spain. Marine Geology, 379: 28–38.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bertoni, D., and Sarti, G., 2011. On the profile evolution of three artificial pebble beaches at Marina di Pisa, Italy. Geomorphology, 130 (3–4): 244–254.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bird, E. C. F., 1985. Coastline Changes: A Global Review. John Wiley and Sons Inc., New York, 1–231.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bruun, P., 1988. The Bruun rule of erosion by sea-level rise: A discussion on large-scale two- and three-dimensional usages. Journal of Coastal Research, 4 (4): 627–648.

    Google Scholar 

  • Cai, F., Dean, R. G., and Liu, J., 2011. Beach nourishment in China: Status and prospects. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1 (32): 31.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cai, F., Su, X., Liu, J., Li, B., and Lei, G., 2009. Coastal erosion in China under the condition of global climate change and measures for its prevention. Progress in Natural Science, 19 (4): 415–426.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cammelli, C., Jackson, N. L., Nordstrom, K. F., and Pranzini, E., 2006. Assessment of a gravel nourishment project fronting a seawall at Marina di Pisa, Italy. Journal of Coastal Research, 39 (39): 770–775.

    Google Scholar 

  • Castelle, B., Marieu, V., Bujan, S., Splinter, K. D., Robinet, A., Sénéchal, N., and Ferreira, S., 2015. Impact of the winter 2013–2014 series of severe Western Europe storms on a double-barred sandy coast: Beach and dune erosion and mega-cusp embayments. Geomorphology, 238: 135–148.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cavaleri, L., Alves, J. H., Ardhuin, F., Babanin, A., Banner, M., Belibassakis, K., and Hwang, P. A. E. M., 2007. Wave modelling — The state of the art. Progress in Oceanography, 75 (4): 603–674.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Chen, B., and Stephenson, W., 2015. Measuring pebble abrasion on a mixed sand and gravel beach using abrasion baskets. Geomorphology, 248: 24–32.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Chen, B., Chen, Z., Stephenson, W., and Finlayson, B., 2011. Morphodynamics of a boulder beach, Putuo Island, SE China coast: The role of storms and typhoon. Marine Geology, 283 (1–4): 106–115.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A., Kennedy, A. B., and Chawla, A., 2000. Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and runup. II: 2D. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 126 (1): 48–56.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Davison, A. T., Nicholls, R. J., and Leatherman, S. P., 1992. Beach nourishment as a coastal management tool: An annotated bibliography on developments associated with the artificial nourishment of beaches. Journal of Coastal Research, 8 (4): 984–1022.

    Google Scholar 

  • Dean, R. G., 2005. Beach nourishment: Benefits, theory and case examples. In: Environmentally Friendly Coastal Protection. Springer, Dordrecht, 25–40.

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Dean, R. G., and Dalrymple, R. A., 2004. Coastal Processes with Engineering Applications. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 1–487.

    Google Scholar 

  • Dixon, K. L., and Pilkey Jr., O. H., 1991. Summary of beach replenishment on the U. S. Gulf of Mexico shoreline. Journal of Coastal Research, 7 (1): 249–256.

    Google Scholar 

  • Elko, N. A., and Wang, P., 2007. Immediate profile and planform evolution of a beach nourishment project with hurricane influences. Coastal Engineering, 54 (1): 49–66.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Esteves, L. S., Brown, J. M., Williams, J. J., and Lymbery, G., 2012. Quantifying thresholds for significant dune erosion along the Sefton Coast, Northwest England. Geomorphology, 143: 52–61.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Fu, X., Wu, S., Li, T., Hou, J., and Liu, Q., 2013. Characteristics analysis of tide along Fujian mid-south coastal waters. Journal of Applied Oceanography, 32 (2): 164–170.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gorzelany, J. F., and Nelson, W. G., 1987. The effects of beach replenishment on the benthos of a sub-tropical Florida beach. Marine Environmental Research, 21 (2): 75–94.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Grottoli, E., Bertoni, D., and Ciavola, P., 2017. Short- and medium-term response to storms on three mediterranean coarsegrained beaches. Geomorphology, 295: 738–748.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Haerens, P., Bolle, A., Trouw, K., and Houthuys, R., 2012. Definition of storm thresholds for significant morphological change of the sandy beaches along the Belgian coastline. Geomorphology, 143: 104–117.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hanson, H., Brampton, A., Capobianco, M., Dette, H. H., Hamm, L., Laustrup, C., and Spanhoff, R., 2002. Beach nourishment projects, practices, and objectives — A European overview. Coastal Engineering, 47 (2): 81–111.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ha, T., Jun, K., Yoo, J., and Park, K. S., 2014. Numerical study of rip current generation mechanism at Haeundae Beach, Korea. Journal of Coastal Research, 72 (spl): 179–183.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hine, A. C., 1979. Mechanisms of berm development and resuilting beach growth along a barrier spit complex. Sedimentology, 26 (3): 333–351.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hsu, J. R. C., 1989. Parabolic bay shapes and applications. Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers, 87: 557–570.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kamphuis, J. W., 1991. Alongshore sediment transport rate. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering. 117 (6): 624–640.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kennedy, A. B., Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., and Dalrymple, R. A., 2000. Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and runup. I: 1D. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 126 (1): 39–47.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kirby, J. T., Wei, G., Chen, Q., Kennedy, A. B., and Dalrymple, R. A., 1998. Funwave 1.0. Fully nonlinear boussinesq wave model. Documentation and User’s Manual. University of Delaware.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kirk, R. M., 1992. Artificial beach growth for breakwater protection at the Port of Timaru, east coast, South Island, New Zealand. Coastal Engineering, 17 (3–4): 227–251.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Liao, K., Wang, Y., He, J., Lin, Y, and Chen, Z., 2010. Research report on tidal characteristics in Fujian coast. Third Institute of Oceanography, State Oceanic Administration, Xiamen, 1–54.

    Google Scholar 

  • List, J. H., Farris, A. S., and Sullivan, C., 2006. Reversing storm hotspots on sandy beaches: Spatial and temporal characteristics. Marine Geology, 226 (3–4): 261–279.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • López, I., Aragonés, L., Villacampa, Y., Compañ, P., and Satorre, R., 2015. Morphological classification of microtidal sand and gravel beaches. Ocean Engineering, 109: 309–319.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Lorang, M. S., 1991. An artificial perched-gravel beach as a shore protection structure. Proceedings of Coastal Sediments ′91 American Society of Civil Engineers. New York, 1916–1925.

    Google Scholar 

  • Masselink, G., and Short, A. D., 1993. The effect of tide range on beach morphodynamics and morphology: A conceptual beach model. Journal of Coastal Research, 9 (3): 785–800.

    Google Scholar 

  • Masselink, G., Russell, P., Blenkinsopp, C., and Turner, I., 2010. Swash zone sediment transport, step dynamics and morphological response on a gravel beach. Marine Geology, 274 (1–4): 50–68.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Masselink, G., Scott, T., Poate, T., Russell, P., Davidson, M., and Conley, D., 2016. The extreme 2013/2014 winter storms: Hydrodynamic forcing and coastal response along the southwest coast of England. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 41 (3): 378–391.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • McNinch, J. E., 2004. Geologic control in the nearshore: Shore-oblique sandbars and shoreline erosional hotspots, Mid-Atlantic Bight, USA. Marine Geology, 211 (1–2): 121–141.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Neumann, B., Vafeidis, A. T., Zimmermann, J., and Nicholls, R. J., 2015. Future coastal population growth and exposure to sea-level rise and coastal flooding-a global assessment. PLoS One, 10 (3): e0118571.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Osborne, P. D., 2005. Transport of gravel and cobble on a mixed-sediment inner bank shoreline of a large inlet, Grays Harbor, Washington. Marine Geology, 224 (1–4): 145–156.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pedrozo-Acuña, A., Simmonds, D. J., Chadwick, A. J., and Silva, R., 2007. A numerical-empirical approach for evaluating morphodynamic processes on gravel and mixed sand-gravel beaches. Marine Geology, 241 (1–4): 1–18.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pedrozo-Acuña, A., Simmonds, D. J., and Reeve, D. E., 2008. Wave-impact characteristics of plunging breakers acting on gravel beaches. Marine Geology, 253 (1–2): 26–35.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pilkey, O. H., 1990. A time to look back at beach replenishment. Journal of Coastal Research, 6 (1): iii–vii.

    Google Scholar 

  • Pilkey Jr., O. H., and Cooper, J. A. G., 2014. The Last Beach. Duke University Press, Durham, 1–233.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Pye, K., and Blott, S. J., 2008. Decadal-scale variation in dune erosion and accretion rates: An investigation of the significance of changing storm tide frequency and magnitude on the Sefton coast, UK. Geomorphology, 102 (3–4): 652–666.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pye, K., and Blott, S. J., 2009. Progressive breakdown of a gravel-dominated coastal barrier, Dunwich-Walberswick, Suffolk, U. K.: Processes and implications. Journal of Coastal Research, 25 (3): 589–602.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Qi, H., Cai, F., Lei, G., Cao, H., and Shi, F., 2010. The response of three main beach types to tropical storms in South China. Marine Geology, 275 (1–4): 244–254.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ruggiero, P., Komar, P. D., McDougal, W. G., Marra, J. J., and Beach, R. A., 2001. Wave runup, extreme water levels and the erosion of properties backing beaches. Journal of Coastal Research, 17 (2): 407–419.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sallenger Jr., A. H., 2000. Storm impact scale for barrier islands. Journal of Coastal Research, 16 (3): 890–895.

    Google Scholar 

  • Schiaffino, C. F., Brignone, M., and Ferrari, M., 2012. Application of the parabolic bay shape equation to sand and gravel beaches on Mediterranean coasts. Coastal Engineering, 59 (1): 57–63.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Shi, F., Kirby, J. T., Harris, J. C., Geiman, J. D., and Grilli, S. T., 2012. A high-order adaptive time-stepping TVD solver for Boussinesq modeling of breaking waves and coastal inundation. Ocean Modelling, 43: 36–51.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Shi, F., Tehranirad, B., James, T. K., Harris, J. C., and Grilli, S., 2013. Funwave-TVD fully nonlinear boussinesq wave model with TVD solver documentation and user’s manual (Version 2.1). http://www1.udel.edu/kirby/papers/shi-etal-cacr-11-04-version2.1.pdf.

  • Stark, N., and Hay, A. E., 2016. Pebble and cobble transport on a steep, mega-tidal, mixed sand and gravel beach. Marine Geology, 382: 210–223.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Su, S. F., Ma, G., and Hsu, T. W., 2015. Boussinesq modeling of spatial variability of infragravity waves on fringing reefs. Ocean Engineering, 101: 78–92.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • US Army Corps of Engineers, 2002. Coastal engineering manual. Department of the Army, US Army Corpos of Engineers, III (2): 10–15.

    Google Scholar 

  • Van Rijn, L. C., 2011. Coastal erosion and control. Ocean & Coastal Management, 54 (12): 867–887.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Zenkovich, V. P., and Schwartz, M. L., 1987. Protecting the Black Sea-Georgian S. S. R. gravel coast. Journal of Coastal Research, 3 (2): 201–209.

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgements

This research was supported by the Scientific Research Foundation of the Third Institute of Oceanography, State Oceanic Administration (Nos. 20170305, 2011010) and the Public Science and Technology Research Funds Projects of Ocean (No. 201405037). We thank all of the investigators for their help in collecting data during the observations. Special thanks go to Drs. Yue Yu, Gen Liu and Yang Lu for their field efforts. We are thankful to the anonymous reviewers whose valuable comments helped improve the original manuscript.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Feng Cai.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this article

Shu, F., Cai, F., Qi, H. et al. Morphodynamics of an Artificial Cobble Beach in Tianquan Bay, Xiamen, China. J. Ocean Univ. China 18, 868–882 (2019). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11802-019-3860-3

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Revised:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s11802-019-3860-3

Key words

Navigation