Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

Estimation of the velocity field induced by plunging breakers in the surf and swash zones

  • Research Article
  • Published:
Experiments in Fluids Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

This study presents an investigation into the spatial and temporal evolution of the velocity field induced by plunging waves using the bubble image velocimetry (BIV) technique. The BIV velocity estimates are validated with both direct single-point measurements and a well-validated VOF-type numerical model. Firstly, BIV-derived time series of horizontal velocities are compared with single-point measurements, showing good agreement at two cross-shore locations on the impermeable slope in the swash and surf zones. The comparison includes a discussion on the uncertainty associated with both data sets. In order to evaluate the transient two-dimensional description of the flow field, a high-resolution VOF-type numerical model based on the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations is used. A reliable estimation of the numerically derived surf zone velocity is established. In the swash zone, however, an overprediction of the offshore flow is identified, which may be ascribed to the single-phase nature of the numerical description, suggesting the importance of the dynamics of the air/water mixture for accurate modelling of this breaker type. The non-intrusive BIV technique was shown to be a good complementary tool to the numerical model in the estimation of velocity field induced by plunging waves in the laboratory. It is shown that the BIV technique is more suitable when the nature of the velocity field under the presence of an aerated flow is sought. This is relevant for hydrodynamic studies of plunging breakers when, due to air entrainment, the use of other measurement techniques or single-phase formulations in numerical models may provide uncertain results.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Log in via an institution

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Institutional subscriptions

Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
Fig. 13
Fig. 14
Fig. 15
Fig. 16
Fig. 17

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  • Adrian RJ (1991) Particle-imaging techniques for experimental fluid mechanics. Annu Rev Fluid Mech 23:261–304

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bakhtyar AMR, Barry DA, Yeganeh-Bakhtiary A, Zou QP (2010) Air-water two-phase flow modeling of turbulent surf and swash zone wave motions. Adv Water Resour 33(12):1560–1574

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Brocchini M, Baldock TE (2008) Recent advances in modelling swash zone dynamics: Influence of Surf-Swash interaction on nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics. Rev Geophys 46:RG3003. doi:10.1029/2006RG000215

  • Cowen EA, Sou IM, Liu PLF, Raubenheimer B (2003) Particle image velocimetry measurements within a laboratory-generated swash zone. J Eng Mech 129(10):1119–1129

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cox DT, Kobayashi N (2000) Identification of intense, intermittent coherent motions under shoaling and breaking waves. J Geophys Res 105:14223–14236

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cox DT, Shin S (2003) Laboratory measurements of void fraction and turbulence in the bore region of surf zone waves. J Eng Mech Res 129:1197–1205

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cox DT, Kobayashi N, Okayasu A (1996) Bottom shear stress in the surf zone. J Geophys Res 101:14337–14348

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Dvořák V (1880) Über eine neue einfache Art der Schlierenbeobachtung. Ann der Physik 245(3):502–512. doi:10.1002/andp.18802450309

    Google Scholar 

  • Garcia N, Lara JL, Losada IJ (2004) 2-D numerical analysis of near-field flow at low-crested permeable breakwaters. Coastal Eng 51(10):991–1020

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Govender K, Mocke GP, Alport MJ (2002a) Video-imaged surf zone wave and roller structures and flow fields. J Geophys Res 107(C7):3072

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Govender K, Alport MJ, Mocke G, Michallet H (2002b) Video measurements of fluid velocities and water levels in breaking waves. Physica Scripta T97:152–159

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Govender K, Mocke GP, Alport MJ (2004) Dissipation of isotropic turbulence and length-scale measurements through the wave roller in laboratory spilling waves. J Geophys Res 109(C8):C08018

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Gui L, Merzkirch W (1996) A method of tracking ensembles of particle images. Exp Fluids 21:465–468

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Gui L, Merzkirch W (2000) A comparative study of the MQD method and several correlation-based PIV evaluation algorithms. Exp Fluids 28:36–44

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hassan YA, Schmidl WD, Ortiz-Villafuerte J (1998) Investigation of three-dimensional two-phase flow structure in a bubbly pipe Meas. Sci Technol 9:309–326

    Google Scholar 

  • Holland KT, Puleo JA, Kooney TN (2001) Quantification of swash flows using video-based particle image velocimetry. Coastal Eng 44(2):65–77

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hsu T-J, Sakakiyama T, Liu PL-F (2002) A numerical model for wave motions and turbulence flows in front of a composite breakwater. Coastal Eng 46(1):25–50

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Huang ZC, Hsiao SC, Hwung HH, Chang KA (2009) Turbulence and energy dissipations of surf-zone spilling breakers. Coastal Eng 56(7):733–746

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Huang ZC, Hwung HH, Hsiao SC, Chang KA (2010) Laboratory observation of boundary layer flow under spilling breakers in surf zone using particle image velocimetry. Coastal Eng 57(3):343–357

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Jayaratne R, Hunt-Raby A, Bullock G, Bredmose H (2008) Individual violent overtopping events: new insights. In: Proceedings of the 31th international conference on coastal engineering, Hamburg, World Scientific, 1-13 pp

  • Kimmoun O, Branger H (2007) A particle image velocimetry investigation on laboratory surf-zone breaking waves over a sloping beach. J Fluid Mech 588:353–397

    Article  MATH  MathSciNet  Google Scholar 

  • Kimmoun O, Branger H, Zucchini B (2004) Laboratory PIV measurements of wave breaking on a beach. In: Proceedings of the 14th international offshore and polar engineering conference, May 23–28

  • Lara JL, Garcia N, Losada IJ (2006) RANS modelling applied to random wave interaction with submerged permeable structures. Coastal Eng 53(3–4):395–417

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Lin P, Liu PL-F (1998a) A numerical study of breaking waves. J Fluid Mech 359:239–264

    Article  MATH  MathSciNet  Google Scholar 

  • Lin P, Liu PL-F (1998b) Turbulence transport, vorticity dynamics, and solute mixing under plunging waves in surf zones. J Geophys Res 103(15):15677–15694

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Lindken R, Merzkirch W (2002) A novel PIV technique for measurements in multi-phase flows and its application to two-phase bubbly flows. Exp Fluids 33:814–825

    Google Scholar 

  • Liu PL-F, Lin P, Chang KA, Sakakiyama T (1999) Numerical modeling of wave interaction with porous structures. J Waterway Port Coastal Ocean Eng 125:322–330

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Masselink G, Puleo JA (2006) Swash-zone morphodynamics. Cont Shelf Res 26(5):661–680

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Masselink G, Evans D, Hughes MG, Russell P (2005) Suspended sediment transport in the swash zone of a dissipative beach. Marine Geol 216(3):169–189

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Merzkirch W (1987) Flow visualization, 2nd edn. Academic Press, New York

    MATH  Google Scholar 

  • Mowbray DE (1967) The use of schlieren and shadowgraph techniques in the study of flow patterns in density stratified liquids. J Fluid Mech 27(3):595–608. doi:10.1017/S0022112067000564

    Google Scholar 

  • Nadaoka K, Hino M, Koyano Y (1989) Structure of the turbulent flow field under breaking waves in the surf zone. J Fluid Mech 204:359–387

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Nishino K, Kato H, Torii K (2000) Stereo imaging for simultaneous measurement of size and velocity of particles in dispersed two-phase flow Meas. Sci Technol 11:633–645

    Google Scholar 

  • O'Donoghue T, Pokrajac D, Hondebrink LJ (2010) Laboratory and numerical study of dambreak-generated swash on impermeable slopes. Coast Eng 57(5):513–530. doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.12.007

    Google Scholar 

  • Pedrozo-Acuña A, Simmonds DJ, Reeve DE (2008) Wave-impact characteristics of plunging breakers acting on gravel beaches. Mar Geol 253(1):26–35. doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2008.04.013

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pedrozo-Acuña A, Torres-Freyermuth A, Zou QP, Hsu T-J, Reeve DE (2010) Diagnostic investigation of impulsive pressures induced by plunging breakers impinging on gravel beaches. Coastal Eng 57(3):252–266. doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.09.010

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pedrozo-Acuña A, Ruiz de Alegría-Arzaburu A, Torres-Freyermuth A, Mendoza E, Silva R (2011) Laboratory investigation on pressure gradients induced by plunging breakers. Coastal Eng 58(8):722–738. doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.03.013

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Petti M, Longo S (2001) Turbulence experiments in the swash zone. Coastal Eng 43:1–24

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Petti M, Quinn PA, Liberatore C, Easton WJ (1994) Wave velocity field measurements over a submerged breakwater. In: Proceedings of the 24th international conference on coastal engineering, pp 525–539

  • Raubenheimer B (2002) Observations and predictions of fluid velocities in the surf and swash zones. J Geophys Res 107(C11):3190. doi:10.1029/2001JC001264

    Google Scholar 

  • Ray SD (2002) Applied photographic optics. Focal, Oxford, pp 215–233

  • Ryu Y, Chang K-A (2008) Green water void fraction due to breaking wave impinging and overtopping. Exp Fluids 45:883–898

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ryu Y, Chang K-A, Lim H-J (2005) Use of bubble image velocimetry for measurement of plunging wave impinging on structure and associated greenwater. Meas Sci Technol 16:1945–1953

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ryu Y, Chang K-A, Mercier R (2007) Runup and green water velocities due to breaking wave impinging and overtopping. Exp Fluids 43:555–567

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ting FCK (2006) Large-scale turbulence under a solitary wave. Coast Eng 53(5–6):441–462

    Google Scholar 

  • Ting FCK, Kirby JT (1994) Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone. Coast Eng 24(1–2):51–80

    Google Scholar 

  • Ting FCK, Kirby JT (1995) Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a strong plunging breaker. Coast Eng 24:177–204

    Google Scholar 

  • Ting FCK, Kirby JT (1996) Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a spilling breaker. Coast Eng 27:131–160

    Google Scholar 

  • Westerweel J, Dabiri D, Gharib M (1997) The effect of a discrete window offset on the accuracy of cross-correlation analysis of digital PIV recordings. Exp Fluids 23:20–28

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Willert CE, Gharib M (1991) Digital particle image velocimetry. Exp Fluids 10:181–193

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Zhang Q, Liu PL-F (2008) A numerical study of swash flow generated by bores. Coastal Eng 55(12):1113–1134

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgments

The research was supported in part by research grants from the National Autonomous University of Mexico (PAPIIT IN106610) and the research fund provided by the Engineering Institute (A2). We would like to thank the following for their assistance with the laboratory work described in this paper: Ariadna Cruz Quiroz, Jorge G. González Armenta, Miguel A. Laverde Barajas and Juan P. Rodríguez Rincón.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Instituto de Ingeniería, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, Cd. Universitaria, 04360, México city, Mexico

    Germán Rivillas-Ospina, Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña, Rodolfo Silva & César Gutierrez

  2. Instituto de Ingeniería, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, Puerto de Abrigo s/n, 92718, Sisal, Mexico

    Alec Torres-Freyermuth

Authors
  1. Germán Rivillas-Ospina
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  3. Rodolfo Silva
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  4. Alec Torres-Freyermuth
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  5. César Gutierrez
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Cite this article

Rivillas-Ospina, G., Pedrozo-Acuña, A., Silva, R. et al. Estimation of the velocity field induced by plunging breakers in the surf and swash zones. Exp Fluids 52, 53–68 (2012). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00348-011-1208-x

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Revised:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00348-011-1208-x

Keywords

Search

Navigation