Pure and Applied Geophysics

, Volume 176, Issue 1, pp 501–524 | Cite as

Spectral Modelling on the Characteristics of High Frequency Tail in Shallow Water Wave Spectra at Coastal Puducherry, East Coast of India

  • P. A. UmeshEmail author
  • Prasad K. Bhaskaran
  • K. G. Sandhya
  • T. M. Balakrishnan Nair


About 8 years of measured wave spectra (June 2007–December 2014) off coastal Puducherry located in the east coast of India and bordering the Bay of Bengal were analyzed with an objective to understand the slope of the high frequency tail of the wave spectrum and to determine the occurrence of single peaked, double-peaked and multi-peaked spectra in varying sea states. The temporal and inter-annual variation of the spectral energy density over the years indicates marked variability and the study signifies that wave spectra were multi-peaked from June to October and predominantly double peaked during the rest of the year. Swell and wind sea components have been estimated from the wave spectra by separation frequency method. The analysis shows that swells dominate Puducherry coastal region not only during southwest monsoon (95%), but also during the post-monsoon (100%) and northeast monsoon season. The measured wave spectra were compared with numerical wave model outputs to attain a level of confidence with the buoy data. In addition, analysis on the slope of the high frequency tail of the wave energy spectra shows that its slope varied seasonally in the range of − 1.96 to − 3.27 at the coastal location. Further, the JONSWAP model fitted into measured wave spectra showed high discrepancy between the two, especially in the high frequency tail with Scatter Index ranging between 0.79 and 3.98. The correct slope for the high frequency or even whether a unique slope exists remains elusive for the ocean wave community.


Buoy data high frequency tail wave spectra Puducherry WAM SWAN 



The authors would like to thank the Director, ESSO-INCOIS, Hyderabad, under the Ministry of Earth Sciences, Government of India, for the support and encouragement. The efforts made for wave rider buoy data collection by the team including Mr. Arun N, Mr. Jeyakumar, and Mr. Rameshkumar of ESSO-INCOIS is thankfully acknowledged. Authors are thankful to the anonymous reviewers for their constructive comments which enriched the manuscript.


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Copyright information

© Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2018

Authors and Affiliations

  • P. A. Umesh
    • 1
    Email author
  • Prasad K. Bhaskaran
    • 1
  • K. G. Sandhya
    • 2
  • T. M. Balakrishnan Nair
    • 2
  1. 1.Department of Ocean Engineering and Naval ArchitectureIndian Institute of Technology KharagpurKharagpurIndia
  2. 2.Ocean Information and Forecast Services GroupEarth System Science Organization-Indian National Centre for Ocean Information Services, Ministry of Earth Sciences, Govt. of IndiaHyderabadIndia

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