Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in
Book cover

Daily Routine in Cosmetic Dermatology pp 1–22Cite as

Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Botanical and Nonbotanical Sources

  • Living reference work entry
  • First Online:

  • 524 Accesses

Abstract

Cosmeceuticals are considered to be all products containing biologically active substances and ingredients with beneficial effects on the skin, interfering positively on skin physiology, without therapeutic pretension, but may have preventive effects beyond beautification. Thirty-five percent of US dermatologists already include cosmeceuticals in their prescriptions, and since then cosmeceutical has represented constantly expanding group. In addition, it is certain that it is up to dermatologists to carefully evaluate each patient and the correct indication and need for the use of such substances. Although not individualized in a particular category, according to the American standards defined by the FDA, cosmeceuticals should always be evaluated to have checked their safety and efficacy profiles, since these are created with pharmacologically active substances that must respect certain pharmacokinetic principles, as they reach the deeper layers of the skin.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution.

References

  • Aburjai T, Natsheh FM. Plants in cosmetics. Phytother Res. 2003;19(9):987–1000.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Afornali A, de Vecchi R, Stuart RM, Dieamant G, de Oliveira LL, Brohem CA, Feferman IHS, Fabricio LHZ, Lorencini M. Triple nanoemulsion potentiates the effects of topical treatments with microencapsulated retinol and modulates biological processes related to skin aging. An Bras Dermatol. 2013;88(6):930–6.

    Article  PubMed Central  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Almeida IF, Bahia MF. Evaluation of the physical stability of two oleogels. Int J Pharm. 2006;327(1-2):73–7.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Atomoros FP. Topical botulinum toxin type A for the treatment of moderate to severe lateral canthal lines: preliminary safety and efficacy results of a blinded, randomized, placebo controlled trial. Summer Academy Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology; 2009. Abstract P2403.

    Google Scholar 

  • Babu M, Wells A. Dermal-epidermal communication in wound healing. Wounds. 2001;13:183–9.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bagatin E. Mecanismos do envelhecimento cutâneo e o papel dos cosmecêuticos. Rev Bras Med. 2009;66(3):5–11.

    Google Scholar 

  • Balandrin MF, Klocke JA, Wurtele ES, Bollinger WH. Natural plant chemicals: sources of industrial and medical materials. Science. 1985;228(4704):1154–60.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Barbosa, Oliveira, Seara. AGEs e complicações diabéticas. Arq Bras Edocrinol Metab. 2008;52(6):940–950.

    Google Scholar 

  • Barnes H. Handbook of elementary rheology. Aberystwyth: Institute of Non-Newtonian Fluid Mechanisms; 2000.

    Google Scholar 

  • Barquet AP, Funck APG, Koester LS. Comparação entre alfa-hidroxiácidos e poli-hidroxiácidos na cosmiatria e dermatologia. Rev Bras Farm. 2006;87(3):67–73.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Berardesca E, Cameli N, Cavallotti C, Levy JL, Piérard E, Ambrosi GP. Combined effects of silymarin and methylsulfonylmethane in the management of rosacea: clinical and instrumental evaluation. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008;7(1):8–14.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Billmann-Eberwein C, Rippke F, Ruzicka T, Krutmann J. Modulation of atopy patch test reactions by topical treatment of human skin with fatty acids-rich emollient. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol. 2002;15:100–4.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Bizzo H, Hovell AMC, Rezende CM. Óleos essenciais no Brasil: aspectos gerais, desenvolvimento e perspectivas. Quim Nova. 2009;32(3):588–94.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Brody HJ. Relevance of cosmeceuticals to the dermatologic surgeon. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7):796–8.

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Brooks G, Scholzz DB, Parish D, et al. Aging and the future of enzymes in cosmetics. C&T. 1997;112:79–89.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Broughton II G, Janis JE, Attinger CE. The basic science of wound healing. Plast Reconstr Surg. 2006;117:12S–34.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Bruce S. Cosmeceuticals for the atenuation of extrinsic and intrinsic dermal aging. J Drug Dermatol. 2008;7:s17–22.

    Google Scholar 

  • Brummer R. Rheology essentials of cosmetic and food emulsions. Berlin/London: Springer; 2006.

    Google Scholar 

  • Chung JH, Seo JY, Choi HR, et al. Modulation of skin collagen metabolism in aged and photoaged human skin in vivo. J Invest Dermatol. 2001;117:1218–88.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Chung J, Cho S, Kang S. Why does the skin age: intrinsic aging, photo aging and their pathophysiology. In: Rigel DS, Wiess RA, Lim HW, Dover JS, editors. Photo aging. New York: Marcel Dekker; 2004. p. 1–13.

    Google Scholar 

  • Costa A. Tratado Internacional de Cosmecêuticos. Rio de Janeiro: Guanabara Koogan; 2012.

    Google Scholar 

  • Daithankar A, Padamwar MN, Pisal SS, et al. Moisturizing efficiency of silk protein hydrolysate: silk fibroin. Indian J Biotechnol. 2005;4:115–21.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Dandy F, William MD. Nutrition and aging skin: sugar and glycation. Clin Dermatol. 2010;28:409–11. Department of Medicine, Section of Dermatology, Dartmouth Medical School, Hanover.

    Google Scholar 

  • Daniel S, Reto M, Fred Z. Collagen glycation and skin aging. Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide. Mibelle Ag Cosmetics. 2002; http://www.mib-bio.com

  • Darby IA, Hewitson TD. Fibroblast differentiation in wound healing and fibrosis. Int Rev Cytol. 2007;257:143–79.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Draelos ZD. The cosmeceutical conundrum. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2005;4:149–50.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Draelos ZD. Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Elsevier; 2014.

    Google Scholar 

  • Draelos Z, Yarosh D, Lang G et al. Imporved photoaging with topical DNA repair enzymes. J AM Acad Dermatol. 2009;60. AB2 Abstract P107.

    Google Scholar 

  • Dryer DG, Dunn JA, Thorpe SR, et al. Accumulation of Maillard reaction products in skin collagen in diabetes and aging. J Clin Invest Am Soc Clin Investig. 1993;91:2463–9.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • El-Domyati M, Anntia S, Saleh F, et al. Intrinsic aging vs. photoaging: a comparative histopathological, immunohistochemical, and ultrastructural study of skin. Exp Dermatol. 2002;11:398–405.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Eming SA, Krieg T, Davidson JM. Inflammation in wound repair: molecular and cellular mechanisms. J Invest Dermatol. 2007;127:514–25.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Reversal of photodamage with topical growth factors: a pilot study. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2003;4:25–34.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Florez-White M. Antioxidantes tópicos: su papel en el manejo del fotoenvejecimiento. Más Dermatol. 2013;19:3–4.

    Google Scholar 

  • Freitas PC. Princípios ativos de origem vegetal. Cosmetics and Toiletries. Set/out 1990;2.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gaspar LR, Maria Campos PMBG. Rheological behavior and the SPF of sunscreens. Inter J Pharm. 2003;250(1):35–44.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Gorouhi F, Maibach HI. Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2009;31:327–45.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Graham JA, Kligman AM. Cosmetic therapy for the elderly. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1984;35:133–45.

    Google Scholar 

  • Grosicki M, Latacz G, Szopa A, Cukier A, Kieć-Kononowicz K. The study of cellular cytotoxicity of argireline – an anti-aging peptide. Acta Biochim Pol. 2014;61(1):29–32.

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Harris RB, Foote JA, Hakim IA, et al. Fatty acid composition of red blood cell membranes and risk of squamous cell carcinoma of the skin. Cancer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev. 2005;14:906–12.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Hilling C. Human growth factors as natural healers: current literature and application. Cosmet Toiletries. 2010;125:73–6.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Jones DS, Woolfson AD. Measuring sensory properties of semi-solid products using texture profile analysis. Pharm Manuf Rev. 1997;9:1.

    Google Scholar 

  • Júnior DSR, Leite GB, Patini JB, Rodrigues-Simioni L, Oshima-Franco Y. Efeitos do dimetilaminoetanol (DMAE) em preparação neuromuscular. Saúde Rev. 2007;9(22):59–68.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kawada A, Konishi N, Oiso N, Kawara S, Date A. Evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing niacinamide. J Dermatol. 2008;35(10):637–42.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Kim EJ, Kim M-K, Jim X-J, Oh J-H, Kim JE, Chung JH. Skin aging and photoaging alter fatty acids composition, including 11,14,17-eicosatrienoic acid, in the epidermis of human skin. J Korean Med Sci. 2010;25:980–3.

    Article  CAS  PubMed Central  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Kligman AM. Cosmeceuticals as a third category. Cosmet Toiletries. 1995;133:33–8.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kligman AM. O que são cosmecêuticos. In: Draelos ZD, Dover JS, editors. Cosmecêuticos. Rio de Janeiro: Elsevier; 2005. p. 1–2.

    Google Scholar 

  • Laba D. Rheological properties of cosmetics and toiletries. New York: Dekker M; 1993.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lachman L, Lieberman HA, Kanig JL. Teoria e prática na indústria farmacêutica. Lisboa: Fundação Calouste; 2001.

    Google Scholar 

  • Leonardi GR, Maria Campos PMBG. Estabilidade de formulações cosméticas. Inter J Pharma Compd. Editora Brasileira. 2001; 3(4):154–6.

    Google Scholar 

  • Levine IN. Solutions, phase equilibrium, surface chemistry and solids & liquid in “physical chemistry”. New York: McGraw-Hill: 1995.

    Google Scholar 

  • Liu S, Chen Z, Cai X, Sun Y, Zhao C, Liu F, Liu D. Effects of dimethylaminoethanol and compound amino acid on D-galactose induced skin aging model of rat. Sci World J. 2014;2014:507351.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lods LM, Dres C, Johnson C, Scholz DB, Brooks GJ. The future of enzymes in cosmetics. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000;22:85–94.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Lupus MP. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31:832–6.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lupus MP, Cole AL. Peptídeos e proteínas. In: Draelos ZD, editor. Cosmecêuticos. Rio de Janeiro: Elsevier; 2005. p. 145–52.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lupus MP, Cole AL. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Ther. 2007;20:343–9.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Maria Campos PMBG. Desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos. Cosmet Toiletries (em Português). 2002;289:117–31. Barbosa, Oliveira, Seara. AGEs e complicações diabéticas. Arq Bras Edocrinol Metab. 2008; 52–6.

    Google Scholar 

  • Mazurowska L, Mojski M. Biological activities of selected peptides: skin penetration ability of copper complexes with peptides. J Cosmet Sci. 2008;59:59–69.

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Mehta RC, Fitzpatrick RE. Endogenous growth factors as cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther. 2007;20:350–9.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327–48.

    Article  CAS  PubMed Central  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Namjoshi S, Benson HA. Cyclic peptides as potential therapeutic agents for skin disorders. Biopolymers. 2010;94:673–80.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Nestor M, Bucay V, Callender V, Cohen JL, Sadick N, Waldorf H. Polypodium leucotomos as an adjunct tratment of pigmentary disorders. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2014;7(3):13–7.

    PubMed Central  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Oliveira MB, do Prado AH, Bernegossi J, Sato CS, Brunetti IL, Scarpa MV, Leonardi GR, Friberg SE, Chorilli M. Topical application of retynil palmitate-loaded nanotechnology-based drug delivery systems for the treatment of skin aging. Biomed Res Int. 2014;2014:1–7.

    Google Scholar 

  • Rivers JK. The role of cosmeceuticals in untagging therapy. Skin Therapy Lett. 2008;13:5–9.

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Rona C, Vailati F, Berardesca E. The cosmetic treatment of wrinkles. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004;3:26–34.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Rosenblat G, Meretski S, Segal J, Tarshis M, Schroeder A, Zanin-Zhorov A, et al. Polyhydroxylated fatty alcohols derived from avocado suppress inflammatory response and provide non-sunscreen protection against UV-induced damage in skin cells. Arch Dermatol Res. 2011;303(4):239–46.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Schmuth M, Ortegon AM, Man MQ, Elias PM, Feingold KR, Stahl A. Differencial expression of fatty acid transport proteins in epidermis and skin appendages. J Invest Dermatol. 2005;125:1174–81.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Steenvoorden DO, van Henegouwen GM. The use of endogenous antioxidants to improve photo protection. J Photochem Photobiol B. 1997;4:1–10.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Tanojo H, Bouwstra JA, Junginger HE, Boddé HE. In vitro human skin barrier modulation by fatty acids: skin permeation and thermal analysis studies. Pharm Res. 1997;14(1):42–9.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Tanojo H, Boelsma E, Junginger HE, Ponec M, Boddé HE. In vivo human skin barrier modulation by topical application of fatty acids. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physyiol. 1998;11:87–97.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Ulrich P, Cerami A. Protein glycation, diabetes and aging. The Kenneth S. Warren Laboratories, 765 Old Saw Mill River Road, Tarrytown, New York. Copyright 2001 by The Endocrine Society. Download from rphr.endojournals.org.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wagas MK, Akhtar N, Mustafa R, Jamshaid M, Khan HM, Murtaza G. Dermatological and cosmetical benefits of Glycine max (soybean) and its active components. Acta Pol Pharm. 2015;72(1):3–11.

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Service of Dermatology of the Pontifical Catholic University of Campinas (PUC-Campinas), Campinas, SP, Brazil

    Renan Lage & Cínthia Mendes

  2. ABD Foundation School of Medicine (FMABC), Santo Andre, SP, Brazil

    Beatrice Martinez Zugaib Abdalla

  3. Department of Dermatology, Winship Cancer Institute, Emory University School of Medicine, Atlanta VA Medical Center, Atlanta, GA, USA

    Jack Arbiser

  4. Jack Arbiser’s Laboratory, Department of Dermatology, Emory University School of Medicine, Atlanta, GA, USA

    Adilson Costa

Authors
  1. Renan Lage
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. Cínthia Mendes
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  3. Beatrice Martinez Zugaib Abdalla
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  4. Jack Arbiser
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  5. Adilson Costa
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Renan Lage .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

  1. Universidade Federal Fluminense, Niterói, São Paulo, Brazil

    Maria Claudia Almeida Issa

  2. Lexbios Medica S/S, São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil

    Bhertha Tamura

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2016 Springer International Publishing AG

About this entry

Cite this entry

Lage, R., Mendes, C., Abdalla, B.M.Z., Arbiser, J., Costa, A. (2016). Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Botanical and Nonbotanical Sources. In: Issa, M., Tamura, B. (eds) Daily Routine in Cosmetic Dermatology. Clinical Approaches and Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-20250-1_19-1

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-20250-1_19-1

  • Received:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Cham

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-319-20250-1

  • eBook Packages: Springer Reference MedicineReference Module Medicine

Publish with us

Policies and ethics

Search

Navigation